Introduction
Between 2020 and 2025, we conducted an extensive oral history project documenting the experiences of Basque immigrants who emigrated to the United States during the second half of the twentieth century. The project focused primarily on men and women from Bizkaia and Navarre, including both those who settled permanently in the United States and those who eventually returned to the Basque Country.
The interviews with emigrants from Bizkaia were carried out by Zuriñe Goitia and Asier Barandiaran Amarika, while those with emigrants from Navarre were conducted by Asier Barandiaran Amarika together with members of Laia Ikerketa Taldea—Mikel Aranburu, Jaione Inda, and Amaia Iraizoz.
Our aim was to preserve personal life stories while documenting a broad range of topics related to Basque migration: the emigrants' motivations for leaving, their adaptation to American society, shepherding and other occupations, family life, language use, Basque identity, religious practices, community organizations, return migration, and the cultural, social, and economic impact that migration had on both the United States and the Basque Country.
To date, the project has produced more than 120 interviews. For the purposes of the article published in the Nevada Historical Society Quarterly, we selected only those interviews with emigrants whose lives were directly connected to Nevada, including communities such as Reno, Elko, Gardnerville, and other locations throughout the state.
The interviews were conducted using a questionnaire adapted from the ethnographic methodology developed by the renowned Basque anthropologist José Miguel de Barandiaran. While preserving the principles of his approach, the questionnaire was redesigned specifically to explore the migration experience and its historical, cultural, linguistic, and social dimensions.
The texts presented here are not verbatim transcripts. Instead, they are editorial summaries based on complete interviews. Each summary seeks to preserve the essential content of the testimony while, whenever possible, also reflecting the interviewee's narrative voice, oral style, and, in the case of Basque-language interviews, characteristic linguistic features.
Each interview is presented in its original language—Basque or Spanish—followed by an English translation. This bilingual format allows readers unfamiliar with either Basque or Spanish to access these valuable testimonies while also preserving the linguistic authenticity of the original interviews.
This online repository has been prepared as supplementary material to accompany the article published in the Nevada Historical Society Quarterly. Although only selected excerpts and quotations appear in the published study, the bilingual summaries collected here provide broader context for the research and make these oral history sources available to scholars, descendants of Basque immigrants, and anyone interested in the history of the Basque diaspora in the American West.
We hope this repository will contribute not only to the study of Basque migration to Nevada, but also to the preservation of the memories, voices, and experiences of a generation of Basque immigrants whose stories form an essential part of the history of both the American West and the Basque Country.
Bizkaitarrak - From Bizkaia
Ramón Zugazaga Agirrealespeiti
Josu Aldecoaotalora eta Pilar Muniosguren
Iñaki AsuetaJoxe Churruca[1] Laca
Esti
Amorrortu Gómez
Ana Mari (Ozamiz)
Arbillaga
Maria Jesús
(Yturriaga) Narbaiza
Seberiana
Erleaga Abaitua
Jose
Mari Beristain Bengoetxea
Nafarrak
Jesus Goñi Tellechea, (Oronoz, Baztan, 1947an
sortua)
Alfonso Ygoa Michelena (Lesaka, 1941)
Seberiano Lazcano Ustariz (Gaztelu, Nafarroa, 1942)
Isidro Etxeto (Eugi, Esteribar)
Pedro Coscarart Iparrea (Azpilkueta, Baztan)
Jesús Rey Belza (Bizkarreta /
Viscarret-Guerendiáin)
Nicolás Huarte Elía (Ardaitz /Ardaiz)
Ramón Zugazaga
Agirrealespeiti
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Ramón Zugazaga (Gernika, Bizkaia)Ramón Zugazaga
1946an jaio zen Gernikan. Bere aita, Pedro Zugazaga, Ameriketan ibili zen
artzain emaztea ezagutu baino lehen. Ramón hamaika neba arreba izan ziren,
eta etxean aitagandik beti entzuten zituzten Ameriketako kontuak, aitak oso
oroitzapen onak baitzituen. Hamazortzi urte bete
zituenean, 1965ean hain zuzen, Ameriketara joatea erabaki zuen Ramonek, aitak
egindakoa berak egitera. Anaia zaharra ere bertara joanda zuen eta, horrez
gain, Espainiako egoera politikoak eta etxean horrenbeste pertsona bizitzeak
ere erabaki hori hartzera bultzatu zituen. Elkora abiatu zen, aita eta anaia
ibili ziren ardi konpainia berdinean lan egitera: Goikoetxeatarren Hollan
konpainian. Hasiera batean hiru urteko kontratua zeukan baina, azkenean, bost
urtera luzatu zioten. Ondoren, lanbidez aldatzea erabaki zuen. Ramonek
sukalderako zaletasun handia zuen, bere amagandik jasoa. Horrela, Star
Hotelean sukaldari moduan ibili zen hamar urtez, eta gero, bere taberna
propioa zabaltzea erabaki zuen. Ramonek berak fundatu zuen , baina gero
emaztearekin batera eraman zuen negozioa. Bera sukaldean ibiltzen zen eta
emazteak bulegoko kontuak eramaten zituen. Tabernak “Biltoki”
zuen izena. Elkon eta inguruan Euskal janaria eskaintzen zuten jatetxe
bakarra zela dio. Taberna saldu egin
behar izan du jubilatu ahal izateko, eta orain Ameriketako, bertako batzuek
daramate eta ez dute Euskal jatekorik eskaintzen. Elkoko Euskal Etxea
1978an fundatu zuten, eta Ramon horren parte izan zen. Bertan batu izan dira
ordutik, orain bostgarren belaunaldiko euskaldunak be handik dabiltzala dio.
Bertan jaiak, jatorduak, mus lehiaketak, euskal dantzak eta aizkolariak
izaten dituzte. Berarentzat bertako lagunak bere familia dira, betikoak. Inoiz ez du Euskal
Herrira bueltatzea pentsatu, bertan ezkondu eta familia izatean bertakotu
egin dela dio, hala ere lau urterik behin Euskal Herrira bidaiatzen dute
bisitatxoa egitera.
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Ramón Zugazaga (Gernika, Bizkaia)The following account is
based on Ramón Zugazaga’s life story as a Basque immigrant in Elko, Nevada. Ramón Zugazaga was born
in 1946 in Gernika, Bizkaia. His father, Pedro
Zugazaga, had worked as a sheepherder in the United States before meeting his
future wife. Ramón was one of eleven siblings, and throughout his childhood
he frequently listened to his father's stories about America. His father
always remembered those years with great affection, and those memories left a
lasting impression on Ramón. When he turned eighteen,
in 1965, Ramón decided to follow in his father's footsteps and emigrate to
the United States. His older brother was
already living there, and the political situation in Spain, together with the
economic pressures of supporting such a large family, also influenced his
decision. He traveled to Elko,
Nevada, where he joined the same sheep company that had employed both his
father and his brother: the Hollan Sheep Company, owned by the Goikoetxea
family. Initially, he signed a
three-year contract, but it was eventually extended to five years. After completing his
years as a sheepherder, Ramón decided to pursue a different career. He had always enjoyed
cooking, a passion inherited from his mother. He worked as a cook at
the Star Hotel for approximately ten years before deciding to open his own
business. He founded a
restaurant and bar that he later operated together with his wife. Ramón was responsible
for the kitchen, while his wife managed the administrative and financial
aspects of the business. The establishment was
called Biltoki. According to Ramón, it
was the only restaurant in Elko and the surrounding area serving traditional
Basque cuisine. In order to retire,
however, he eventually had to sell the business. Today it is operated
by new owners, who no longer serve Basque food. Ramón was also one of
the founders of the Elko Basque Club, established in 1978. Since then, the club
has served as an important meeting place for Basques and their descendants. He notes with
satisfaction that members of the fifth generation of Basque Americans now
participate actively in the club's activities. The organization hosts
festivals, communal meals, mus tournaments, Basque dancing, and
demonstrations of traditional wood-chopping (aizkolaritza). For Ramón, the friends
he has made through the Basque community have become his extended family. He has never seriously
considered returning permanently to the Basque Country. After marrying and
raising a family in the United States, he feels that America has become his
home. Nevertheless, he and
his family travel back to the Basque Country approximately every four years
to visit relatives and maintain their connection with their place of origin.
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Josu Aldecoaotalora eta Pilar Muniosguren
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Josu Aldecoaotalora and Pilar Muniosguren
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Josu Aldecoaotalora and Pilar Muniosguren |
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Elkarrizketa
nagusiki gaztelaniaz izan da Pilar-ek ez dakielako euskaraz.
Josu Iurretan jaio zen, 1947ko maiatzaren 8an, Bargunia
baserrian. Zortzi neba-arreba izan ziren, baina 7 daude bizirik. Bat oso
txikitan hil zen. Herriko eskola publikora joaten zen. Txikitan herrian
txapekin (iturriekin) ibiltzen zen plazan, edo “Baturros” jokoan (poxpolo kutxak
erabilita). Arkupeetan esku-pilotan ibiltzen ziren, etxean pilotak eginda.
Futbolean ere bai, euria egiten zuenean pilotak “ehun kilotik gora” pisatzen
zuen. Etxean euskaraz bai, baina etxetik kanpo, batez ere eskolan gaztelaniaz
soilik. Herriko abadearekin konfesatzen zen euskaraz, lagunekin ere bai,
baina hortik kanpora dena erdaraz. Gero Durangora, “hermanos maristas-era”
joan zen. 1960an Sevillara joateko beka eman zioten: universidad Jose Antonio
Primo de Rivera. Urtebete eman zuen han. Gero etxera itzuli, beharrean egon
zen baserrian, eta gero Durangoko frontoian hasi zen. Durangora “Txino
Bengoa”, “Orbea”… Markinatik etortzen ziren, kotxe “amerikanuekin” eta pixka
bat liluratuta ibiltzen ziren: “oh, beitu zelako kotxeak, eskuak atzean gero!
ukuturik be ez!”. Gaur egun seme-alabei esaten die baserrietan normalean
“four wheel drive car”, 4x4 autoak izan dituztela, negurako, elurrerako eta
mendirako, bestelakorik ez: ez bizikletarik ez motorrik. Amarekin zapatuetan
plazara “astuaz”: “gure modukuek auzokuek, jente asko, danak! Esne apur bat
eruen, berdurak, porruak…”.
Gero handik Mallorkara soldaduska “boluntario” egitera, pilotari
askok egin izan zuten moduan. Soldaduskatik lizentziatu eta Manilara joan zen
20 urterekin (1967). Filipinasetik Indonesiara (artean herrialde musulmana)
joan zen eta bi urte eman zuten han.
Pilar Muniosguren Manilan jaio zen 1952ko uztailaren 2an. Ama
Pilar Boquer deitzen zen, aita katalana eta ama madrildarra. Aitak euskaraz
kontatzen irakatsi zion, askoz gehiagorik ez. Urtero San Inazio eguna
ospatzen zuten Manilan eta aita, pelotaria izateaz gain, dnatzaria zen. Aitak
ikurriña etxean zuen eta berarentzat zein garrantzitsua zen irakasten zien.
“Por lo menos vosotros no habéis nacido en un país dictador, yo no he podido
en mi país “volar” mi bandera ni hablar mi lengua, y aquí (Manilan) sí lo
puedo hacer”. Aitak aitona-amonen berri ematen zien, argazkiak erakutsiz eta
abar, nahiz eta Euskadira orduk hilak ziren. Inguruan hara joandako
pelotariak bizi ziren. Apezak, fraileak eta moja euskaldunak ere baziren.
Tabakalera enpresak ekarrita eta azukrearen industriak erakarrita euskaldun
asko zeuden han bizi zenean. “Casino español” delakoan beste euskaldunekin
batzen ziren. Han, adibidez, Gabonetan errege magoen festa ospatzen zuten.
Soldaduska 1967an bukatu zuen. Urte bereko azaroan Filipinetara
joateko aukera eman zioten eta baietz esan zuen. Urtean 1500 dolar irabaziko
zituela esan zioten: “hubiese comprado medio Durango”. Han Sabino Azkarate eta bere emazte Izaskunekin bizi izan zen.
Filipinetan 6 urtez jokatu zuen, bere emaztea izango zena
batxiler egiten zegoela ezagutu zuen, 15 urte edo zituela. Beraren aitarekin
askotan jokatu zuen, Filipinetan. “Aberatsa” bezala bizi izan zen
Filipinetan.
Pilarren osaba, Eugenio Muniosguren Cubatik Filipinetara joan zen
bertako frontoia inauguratzera, 1940 aldean. 1949an Pilarren aita joan zen
Filipinetara (anaiak “ekarrita”). Pilarren aita, Gerra Zibilean, 9 urterekin
Soraluzetik Bilbora eta handik Southampomera joan zen (“Gerrako haurra”?
“Niño de la guerra”?) eta han 3 urtez bizi izan zen.
Gurasoak (Josurenak) Ameriketara Josuk ekarri zituen. Sasoi
hartan Las Vegasen bizi ziren eta emazteari esan zion gurasoak ekarri nahi
zituela. Hegazkina Sondikan hartu zuten, eta tinko-tinko emazteari (Josuren
amari) esan zion: “Ama, aurrera begitu!”. Sondikatik Madrilera egin zuten.
Madrilen 7x4x7 hegazkin handia hartu zuten, Ameriketara joateko. Aitari esan
zion: “Aite, hauxe abioia hartubiu Ameriketara jueteko”. Aitak erantzun: “Etxera
jueteko gogue daket!”. Sekula horren hegazkin handirik ikusi barik zegoen eta
ez zuen uste horrek gora igotzeko gaitasuna zuenik. Momentu hartan aitari
esan izan baliote norbait dagoela etxera, baserrira eroateko, agur, hortxe
gauza guztiak utzi eta baserrira joango zen. Las Vegasera etorri eta eurena
zen etxean neguan berogailu “zentrala” zuten, etxe osoan tenperatura
berberarekin. “Aite, kalifaziño zentrala dau, etxe guztixen iguala” esan zion
Josuk. Aitak ezin zuen sinetsi. Aitak Levis batzuk, panazkoak erosi zituen.
Horiek jantzi eta ez zituen kendu hamabost egunetan. Siloian jezarri, hankan
mahaiaren gainean ipini eta hortxe egoten zen. Erosketak egiteko esaten
ziotenean, “zu juen!”, ez zuen nahi.
Ezkontzara itzulita, Manilan egin zen, goizeko zortzi eta
erdietan. Eliza kanposantu baten barruan zegoen (Filipinetako heroi nazionala
lurperatua zegoen lekuan, Francisco Rizal). Hasiera batean beste eliza
handiago batean ezkontzera zihoazen, baina prentsa konturatu zen, jakin zuen
non izango zen eta ezetz, Pilarren aitak esan zuen ez zuela nahi bere
alabaren ezkontza “zirko” bat izatea eta eliza “xumeago” horretan ezkondu
ziren. Hala eta guztiz ere argazkilari eta kazetari batzuk izan ziren.
Michael Jordan bezalako fama zeukan Josuk Filipinetan, jai-alai
zela-eta. 1975eko abenduan Las Vegasera joan ziren. Lehenengo aldia zen
AEBetan zeudena. Behetik hasi behar izan zuten. Aireportuan bertan
“tragaperra-makinak” zeuden eta horrek harritu zituen. Pilar hizkuntzekin
(tartean ingelesarekin) ondo konpontzen zen. Pilarrek interpretazio lanak
egiten zizkien pelotariei, ingelesez zekielako eta frantsesez (Iparraldekoei)
ere bazekielako. Josurentzat aldaketa handia izan zen.
Emaztea haurdun zegoen gero Arkaitz deituko zenaz. Josuri eta
Pilarri esaten zieten Patrick deitu behar zela (Saint Patrick egunean jaio
baitzen), baina Josuk, “ezta pentsau bez”,
Arkaitz deituko da. Sasoi hartan Euskal Herrian ere ez zegoen erraz
euskal izenak umeei jartzea.
Euskaraz Euskal Herriko ilobekin bizkaieraz (edo etxeko euskaraz)
hitz egiten du, baina Josu kontzientea da haiek hango “eskola” dutela,
euskara batua erabiltzen dutela, eta batua ez duela bat ere ulertzen esaten
du. Anaia batek Arantzazuko “kalendarixua” bidaltzen dio, euskaraz.
Arantzazuko orriak irakurtzea kostatzen zaio, hiru-lau biderrez irakurtzen du
eta harrapatzen hasten da. Interesatzen zaiona gordetzen du. Josuri dena handi iruditzen zitzaion hasieran: kotxe handiak,
etxeak ortuarekin, kasino eta hotel handiak, dena “diru-kontua”, jokua… Orain ingelesa ondo egiten duela esaten diote, baina ez
ingelesarekin ez euskararekin (euskaraz irakurtzea asko kostatzen zaiolako)
ez da zeharo trebe sentitzen. Semeetako batek euskal ikasketen irakasgai
batzuk egin zituen. Josuk dio Egunkaria-ko
kazetari batek egin ziola elkarrizketa bat. Urte batean Karmelo Etxenagusia gotzaina (Iurretakoa bera) izan
zuten etxean. Las Vegasera doazen bakoitzean, Pilarren lehengusua bisitatzeko
(Elizburu Muñazguren), Josuk dio ez duela ezagutzen, kotxean galduta bezala
ibiltzen da. Eurak ailegatzean eraikuntzarik handiena MGM hotela zen, 2000
logelekin. Orain MGM hotel berriak 5000tik gorako gela baditu. “Lagun onak”
delako euskal zentroa sortu zuten. Pilar idazkaria zen, eta presidentea Jose
Mari Beristain (Josuk Ondarroakoa dela dio). San Inazio egunean euskal festa
antolatzen zuten. 80 hamarkadaren hasieran hasi zen. Argazkiak ba omen
dituzte. Txorizoak saltzen ziren, dantzariak Elkotik, Kaliforniatik eta
etortzen ziren. Gero txikiak ere hasi ziren dantza-taldeekin. Jose Mari Beristainen
alaba (Amaia) euskal dantzak ikasten hasi zen. Janariak leku handia du:
patata-tortilak, txorizoak, eta ardaua. Errioxakoa baloratzen dute. Euskal
meza izaten zuten: Kaliforniatik fraile euskaldun bat etortzen zen. Festa
irekiak izaten ziren (amerikarrek ere parte hartzen zuten), komeni
zitzaielako jendeak kontsumitzea gero euskal klubaren gastuei aurre egiteko.
Amerikarrek festa hori ikustean (musika, txistua, janariak, dantzak…)
gustatuta geratzen ziren. Amerikarrei txorizoak gustatzen zitzaizkien eta ea “hot dogs” ote
ziren galdetzen zuten. Ketchup ere eskatzen zuten eta euskaldunek ezetz,
txorizoak dena daukala barruan, ez zaiola ezer gehitu behar esaten zieten. Frontoia 1983an itxi zen Las Vegasen, baina 1984ra arte egon
ziren han bizitzen. Ordurako Renoko frontoia itxita zegoen (1981era arte).
Pilarren aita Renora joan zen 1977an, intendente lanak egiera. Josuk pilota
1984an utzi zuen, ez zuen Floridara joan nahi: 36 urte zituen sasoi hartan.
Zesta hormako untzean zintzilikatu eta “a otra cosa”. “Empezar de nuevo”,
berriro hasi egin behar izan zuen. Kondadoan hasi zen lanean. Elkarrizketa
egin zioten hasieran, hiru pertsoneko tribunal baten aurrean. Bere ingelesa
orduan eskasarekin hasi zen elkarrizketa. Tribunalekoei esan ei zien:
“polizia batek gelditzen banau eta eskatzen badit paperean zerbait betetzeko,
ez dut jakingo. Baina nire eskuetan ipintzen baduzu erreminta bat maneiatzeko
orduan nik lan egingo dut”. Orduan, baietz, “noiz hasi nahi duzu lanean?” eta
elkarrizketa egin zenetik bi egunetara hasi zen lanean. Garajeak batu, autobus geltokiak garbitu, zaztarrak bildu,
lorategiak zaindu-txukundu… gauza asko egiten zituzten. Baloratu egiten du
uniforme osoa ematen zietela eta azkeneko urteetan ondo-eroso ibili zela
aitortzen du. Jose Francisco Churruca (Berriatuakoa) izeneko batek
eraikuntzan egiten zuen lan eta lanpostu berean “aplikatu” zuen. Nahiz eta
onartua izan, ezetz esan zuen eraikuntzan gehiago irabazten zuelako. Baina
Kondadokoek galdetu zioten “Jesus-Miguel Aldecoaotaloraz” eta J. Fco horrek
erantzun ei zien: “hari lana emanez gero, harek lan egingo du, ziur”. Etxera
ailegatu zitzaion abisua onartua izan zela esanez eta mesedez joateko
lantokira. Gaixotasunagatik sekula ez du hutsik egin lantokian, eta
harrotasunez eta “ixilik”: ez zeukan aitzakiarik kexatzeko. Berak izandako
nagusiak (amerikarrak denak) denak onak izan omen dira. Elkar errespetatzen
jakin izan dute azkeneko urteetan, “hasta la muerte, eh?”. Seme alabei esaten
die: “se bueno y trabajador y no saques la mierda de nadie. Tu haz lo tuyo, y
te apreciarán”. Ingelesa gehien Renon ikasi du, lantokian, lankideak amerikarrak
direlako. Etxean “erderaz” ibiltzen da, emaztearekin, seme-alabekin, eta
abar. Anaia nagusiak filipineraz ere badaki. Seme alabek lotura kulturala
daukate Euskal Herriarekin. Ikurriña bezalako sinbolo batzuk badituzte
etxean. Euren lagunetako asko euskal jatorrikoak dira.
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The interview was conducted mainly in
Spanish because Pilar does not know Basque.
Josu was born in Iurreta on 8 May
1947, at the Bargunia farmhouse. There were eight siblings, but seven are
still alive; one died very young. He attended the local public school. As a
child, he used to play with taps/fountain fixtures in the village square, or
play “Baturros” (using matchboxes). They also played handball in the arcades,
making their own balls at home. They played football too, though when it
rained the ball would weigh “more than a hundred kilos.” At home they spoke
Basque, but outside the home, especially at school, only Spanish. He confessed
in Basque to the local priest, and spoke Basque with friends too, but beyond
that everything was in Spanish. Later he went to the Marist brothers’ school
in Durango. In 1960 he was awarded a scholarship to go to Seville, to the
Universidad José Antonio Primo de Rivera. He spent a year there. Then he
returned home, worked on the farm, and later began playing at the fronton in
Durango. In Durango, people such as “Txino Bengoa” and “Orbea” came from
Markina in American cars, and they were somewhat dazzled: “oh, look at those
cars, with the hands behind them! not even a steering wheel!” Today he tells
his children that farms normally had “four-wheel-drive cars,” 4x4s, for
winter, snow, and the mountains; nothing else: not bicycles, not motorbikes.
On Saturdays, he would go to the square with his mother, “astuaz” [by
donkey]: “people like us, neighbours, lots of people, everyone! A little
milk, vegetables, leeks…” Then, from there, he went to Mallorca
to do his voluntary military service, as many pelotaris had done. After being
discharged from military service, he went to Manila at the age of twenty
(1967). From the Philippines he went to Indonesia, then still a Muslim
country, and they spent two years there. Pilar Muniosguren was born in Manila
on 2 July 1952. Her mother was called Pilar Boquer; her father was Catalan
and her mother from Madrid. Her father taught her to count in Basque, and not
much more. Every year they celebrated St. Ignatius Day in Manila, and her
father, besides being a pelotari, was also a dancer. Her father had the
ikurriña at home and taught them how important it was to him. “At least you
have not been born in a dictatorship; I have not been able in my country to
fly my flag or speak my language, and here (in Manila) I can do that.” Her
father told them about her grandparents, showing photographs and so on, even
though by then they had already died in the Basque Country. Around them there
were pelotaris who had gone there to live. There were also Basque priests,
friars, and nuns. Many Basques were living there when she was there, brought
by the Tabakalera company and attracted by the sugar industry. They met with
other Basques at the so-called “Casino Español.” There, for example, they
celebrated the Feast of the Three Kings at Christmas. He finished military service in 1967.
That same November they gave him the opportunity to go to the Philippines,
and he said yes. They told him he would earn 1,500 dollars a year: “I would
have bought half of Durango.” There he lived with Sabino Azkarate and
his wife Izaskun. In the Philippines he played for six
years; he met the woman who would become his wife when she was still in high
school, when she was about fifteen. He often played with her father in the
Philippines. He lived “like a rich man” in the Philippines. Pilar’s uncle, Eugenio Muniosguren,
went from Cuba to the Philippines to inaugurate the local fronton, around
1940. In 1949 Pilar’s father went to the Philippines, brought there by his
brothers. During the Civil War, Pilar’s father, at the age of nine, went from
Soraluze to Bilbao and from there to Southampton (“war child”? “niño de la
guerra”?) and lived there for three years. Josu brought his parents to America.
At that time they were living in Las Vegas, and he told his wife that he
wanted to bring his parents over. They took the plane in Sondika, and he
firmly told Josu’s mother: “Ama, aurrera begitu!” [Mother, look ahead!]. They
flew from Sondika to Madrid. In Madrid they boarded a large 7x4x7 aircraft to
go to America. He told his father: “Aite, hauxe abioia hartubiu Ameriketara
jueteko” [Father, we have to take this plane to go to America]. His father
replied: “Etxera jueteko gogue daket!” [I feel like going home!]. He had
never seen such a large plane and did not believe it could actually get off
the ground. At that moment, if someone had told his father that there was
somebody waiting to take him home, back to the farmhouse, he would have left
everything there and gone back to the farm. When they arrived in Las Vegas,
the house that was theirs had central heating in winter, with the same
temperature throughout the whole house. “Aite, kalifaziño zentrala dau, etxe
guztixen iguala” [Father, there is central heating, the same all through the
house], Josu told him. His father could not believe it. He bought some Levi’s
trousers, made of corduroy. He wore them and did not take them off for
fifteen days. He would sit in the silo, put his leg up on the table, and stay
there. When they told him to do the shopping, “you go!” he did not want to. Returning to the wedding, it took
place in Manila at half past eight in the morning. The church was inside a
cemetery, in the place where the Filipino national hero Francisco Rizal was
buried. At first they were going to get married in another, larger church,
but the press found out and discovered where it would be held. Pilar’s father
said he did not want his daughter’s wedding to become a circus, so they got
married in that more modest church. Even so, there were some photographers
and journalists present.
Josu had the kind of fame in the
Philippines that Michael Jordan would have, because of jai alai. They went to Las Vegas in December
1975. It was the first time they had been in the United States. They had to
start from the bottom. There were slot machines right there at the airport,
and that surprised them. Pilar managed languages very well, including
English. She interpreted for the pelotaris because she knew English and also
French, for the people from Iparralde. For Josu, it was a major change. His wife was then expecting the child
who would later be named Arkaitz. People told Josu and Pilar that he should
be called Patrick, because he was born on St. Patrick’s Day, but Josu said,
“Not a chance — he will be called Arkaitz.” At that time it was not easy in
the Basque Country either to give children Basque names. He speaks to his nephews and nieces in
the Basque Country in Bizkaian, or in the home variety of Basque, but Josu is
aware that they have their own “school” there, that they use Batua (standard
version), and he says he does not understand standard Basque at all. One
brother sends him the Arantzazu calendar in Basque. He finds it hard to read
the Arantzazu pages; he has to read them three or four times before he starts
to understand them. He keeps whatever interests him. At first, everything seemed huge to
Josu: big cars, houses with gardens, huge casinos and hotels, everything
about money, gambling… People now tell him that he speaks
English well, but he does not feel completely at ease with either English or
Basque, because reading Basque is very difficult for him. One of his sons
took some Basque studies courses. Josu says that a journalist from Egunkaria
once interviewed him. One year Bishop Karmelo Etxenagusia,
who was from Iurreta, stayed in their house. Every time they went to Las Vegas, to
visit Pilar’s cousin Elizburu Muñizguren, Josu says he did not know his way
around and felt lost in the car. When they arrived, the biggest building was
the MGM hotel, with 2,000 rooms. Today the new MGM hotel has more than 5,000
rooms. They founded the Basque center called Lagun Onak. Pilar was the
secretary, and the president was Jose Mari Beristain, whom Josu says was from
Ondarroa. They organized the Basque festival on St. Ignatius Day. It began in
the early 1980s. They apparently have photographs. They sold chorizos, and
dancers came from Elko and California, among other places. Later children
also began to participate with dance groups. Jose Mari Beristain’s daughter,
Amaia, began learning Basque dancing. Food plays a major role: potato
omelettes, chorizos, and wine. Rioja wine is especially valued. They had a
Basque mass: a Basque friar came from California. These were open festivals,
with Americans taking part too, because it was convenient for them that
people consume and thus help cover the Basque club’s expenses. When Americans
saw that festival —music, txistu, food, dances, and so on— they enjoyed it. Americans liked the chorizos and asked
whether they were hot dogs. They also asked for ketchup, and the Basques told
them no, that chorizo already has everything it needs and nothing should be
added to it. The fronton in Las Vegas closed in
1983, but they continued living there until 1984. By then the Reno fronton
had already closed too, in 1981. Pilar’s father went to Reno in 1977 to work
as an administrator. Josu left pelota in 1984; he did not want to go to
Florida. He was 36 at the time. He hung up his cesta and moved on to
something else. He had to start over from scratch. He began working for the County.
They interviewed him first, before a three-person panel. His English was
still poor at that point. He told the panel: “If a police officer stops me
and asks me to fill something out on paper, I will not know how. But if you
put a tool in my hands, I will work.” Then they said yes: “When do you want
to start?” and he began work two days after the interview. They did all kinds of jobs: fixing
garages, cleaning bus stations, picking up litter, looking after and tidying
gardens… He values the fact that they gave him a full uniform, and he admits
that in his later years he worked in comfortable conditions. A man named Jose
Francisco Churruca, from Berriatua, worked in construction and applied for
the same position. Although he was accepted, he turned it down because he
earned more in construction. But the County people asked about “Jesus-Miguel
Aldecoaotalora,” and J. Francisco is said to have replied: “If you give him a
job, he will work, for sure.” A notice reached him at home saying he had been
accepted and asking him to go to the workplace. He has never missed work
because of illness, and he says this with pride and quietly: he had no excuse
to complain. The bosses he had, all of them Americans, were good, according
to him. They have known how to respect one another in recent years, “until
death, eh?” He tells his children: “Be good and hardworking and do not talk
badly about anybody. Do your own thing, and people will appreciate you.” He learned most of his English in
Reno, at work, because his coworkers were American. At home he speaks in
Spanish with his wife, his children, and so on. His eldest brother also knows
Filipino. His children maintain a cultural connection with the Basque
Country. They have symbols such as the ikurriña at home. Many of their friends
are of Basque descent.
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Jaioteguna: 1955eko
apirilaren 17a izan zen eta jaiolekua, Durango. Aitaren izeko baten etxean jaio ei zen, Maristen ondoan. Bost anaia eta arreba bat izan ziren. Iñaki hirugarrena zen eta
arreba bakarra laugarrena izan zen. Gurasoak Durangotik hurbilekoak ziren. Aita “Salaberri” auzoan
jaio zen (Iñaki Azkuna Bilboko alkatea jaiotako auzoan, aita defuntua eta
Iñaki lagunak ziren). Ama, Durango eta Orozketa bitarteko auzo batean jaioa, Santa
Apolonia auzoan, Amuru atzekoa dauka izena baserriak. Durangotik Orozketara joaten zen eskolara, 12 urte bete arte.
Eskolan gehienetan futbolean aritzen zen. Bere izeko pelotari batekin ezkondu
zen eta Floridan bizi eta gero, familia (Iñaki Txikia zela) bisitatzera
etorri zen. Matadero zaharraren ondoan bizi zen.
Osabak Durangoko pelota-eskolako maisuarekin berba egin zuen eta
orduan 12 urterekin sartu zen pelota-eskola hartan.
18 urterekin Bartzelonan debutatu zuen. Han urtebete egin zuen. Han
jokatzen zegoela, Floridara joateko kontratua eskaini zioten. 19 urte eginda
Floridara joan zen. “Hori zen gure gauzie”, holgetan ibiltzen ziren
jokalarien “ilusinoa” edo ametsa hori zen, besteak beste, ondo irabazten
zelako.
Anaia-arreben artean bera da bakarra AEBetara joan dena eta
bertan bizi dena. Hiru denboraldirako kontratua eman zioten. Baina jokatzen
zen 5-6 hilabete, baina Floridan zegoela enpresak berak beste frontoi bat
egin zuen Newport-en, Rhode Island. Han bi denboraldi jokatu zituen. Neguan
Floridan eta udan New Port-en jokatzen zuten.
Hara joan zen, bai, pelotan jokatzeko asmoz, baina Euskal Herrira
itzultzeko asmoarekin. Berarendako Euskal Herria beti izango da bere etxea.
Orain ere, hainbeste urte pasata, gusturen hantxe egoten da, Euskal Herrian.
Bere gorputza hemen dago, baina bere burua han Euskal Herrian dagoela
iruditzen zaio.
Ameriketara heldu eta Floridan arraroa egin zitzaion mendi bat
bera ere ez ikustea, “dana lehune da”. Hondartzak onak dituela dio eta neguan
klima ere oso ona. Udan, berriz, “sobera bero” eta ez du gustuko udan
egoteko. Renoko beroa azkoz “sikuagoa”, lehorragoa omen da eta hobeto jasaten
da.
Lehenengo urtean famili batekin (eta beste pelotari batekin).
Hurrengo urtean, beste bi pelotarirekin: bata berrituarra eta bestea
Mallorkakoa. Gerora, Markina-Etxebarriko batekin bizi izan zen, biak
bakarrik.
Newporten 1976an eta 1977an egon zen. Lehenengo urtean soltero
guztiak ipini zituzeten “mansino” batean, 22 edo 24 gazte-solteru etxe handi
batean. Bazkaltzera, hiruzpalau pertsoneko taldetan “ezkonduen” etxeetara
joaten ziren jatera (bazkaltzera edo afaltzera). Andreak prestatzen zuen
bazkaria eta pelotariek horrengatik diru bat ematen zuten eta horrela ez
zuten kozinan egin behar. Newport-eko bigarren urtean beste birekin soilik bizi zen:
Markina-Etxebarriakoak ziren. Newport-en kontraturik gabe geratu zen eta
Renon kontratu bat eman zioten, Renon frontoi-ireki berria zegoelako. Renon
zegoen intendentea Floridan ezagutu zuen eta, edadekoa zenez, kirola utzi eta
intendente izendatu zuten Renon. 1978ko maiatzaren lehenean inauguratu zen Renoko frontoia. Iñaki
Renoko frontoian zarratu arte egon zen, baina denbora gutxi iraun zuen, bi
urte eta erdi pasatxo gutxi gora-behera. 1980an (azaro partean agian) zarratu
zen.
Renon bere andrea izango zena ezgutu zuen: Gina Goñi (aitatxi
nafarra zuen). Soldaduska “kontsuladotik” egiten zuen eta gonbidapena jaso
zuen Filipinetara bizitzera joan zen bizitzera. Urte eta erdi eman zuen
Filipinetan. 1980ko neguan izan zen hori.
1982an ezkondu zen, Filipinetan. Handik Renora itzuli zen, eta
kasino bateko tabernan hasi zen lanean, “kantinero” bati laguntzen.
Gero Las Vegasen kontratu bat eman zioten. Horra orduko Euskal
Herrira joan ziren andrea eta biok, andreak ezagutu zezan beraren jaioterria.
Ginaren gurasoek gaztelaniaz bazekiten, baina Gina eta bere
anaia-arrebek oso gutxi zekiten. Ezkondu eta gero, bai Ginak bai bere anaia-arrebek
ikasi dute gaztelaniaz polito. Ginak tagaloz ere ondo egiten du. Ginak eta
bere ahizpak Josu Aldekoaotaloraren emaztea (Pilar) ezagutzen zuten eta
elkarrekin ibiltzen ziren. Iñakik Josuren familia guztia ezagutzen du.
Reno aldean beste durangar bat ezagutzen du: “Manny” Manuel
Villanueva (Durangoko San Fausto auzkokoa. Reno aldean Munitibarreko asko daudela dio. Gehienak pastore
etorriak. Eguenetan (ostegunetan) Renoko jatetxe batean elkartzen dira
afaltzeko, musean egiteko eta kontu-kontari ibiltzeko beste euskaldunekin. Ia urtero joan izan da Euskal Herrira. Durango zeharo aldatuta ikusten
du, asko eraiki delako bere herrian (frontoitik bere etxera apenas ez zegoen
ezer eta orain dena dira etxeak). Eroskiren egoitza handi bat bere barrioan
egin zuten[2].
Emazteak beste leku batzuetara joatea nahiago izaten du, baina
bera gusturen Durango bueltan egoten da, hantxe disfrutatzen du gehien:
goizetan mendira, gero lagunekin… Bera bakarrik joaten denean ez da urrun
joaten.
Las Vegas bera joan eta gero (1982an joan zen), urtebete egin
gabe, zarratu zen. Gero Euskal Herrira eta lau hilabete inguru. Renora itzuli
eta erabaki zuen pelota utzi behar zuela.
Urrea eta zilarrezko (“urria eta zidarrezkoa”) mina edo meategi
batean hasi zen lanean, Renotik 30 mila ingurutara. “Zuluan” bajatzen ziren,
300 metro inguru. Tunelen barruan, kasko bat eta argi batekin egiten zuten
“biharra”[3]
edo lana. Urtebete inguru egon zen. Hasieran inpresioa ematen zuen. Kaxa
moduko batean jaisten ziren urre eta zilarraren bila. Berarekin baziren beste
nafar bi, bere lagunak (horreek eiabien berba nagusiakin…). Bata sen Pedro
Eizagirre (sunbildarra, hilda) eta bestea Juan Mindegia da. Ordurako inglesaz polito konpontzen zen. Gehiena ikasi zuen
“belarritik”, eskola sekula gustatu ez zaio eta. Telebistan ikasi du asko.
Taberna egin zuenean lana (John Ascuaga’s Nugget-en), bartenderrari laguntzen. Kuriosoa da zeren handik urte batzuetara
bere andrea Ginak han egin zuen lan, 26 urtez, convention services delakoan, kasino hartan.
Mina edo meategiaren ostean “kontrukzinuen” edo eraikuntzan hasi
zen lanean. Gehienetan tuberiak “ipintzen” ibili izen, ura, gasa,
elektrizitaterakoak… Hogeita bost urte eman zituen langintza horretan.
“Uniñoa” (union, sindikato) zeukan eta baldintza batzuk beteta sindikato
horretatik kobratzen du pentsio bat eta gazteago erretiratu zen. Pelota gazte
uzteak lagundu zion, lan mundutik erretiratzeko lehenago. “Uniñoen” kontuak
ondo esplikatzen badaki. Bere zonaldean “konstruziñoan” euskaldun asko zeuden, joera
“naturala” zen horretan aritzeko (euskaldunen artean), nahiz eta lorezaintzan
(“jardineru”) ere batzuk baziren (Nevadan). Bera sartu zenean gazteenetarikoa
zen eta orain ez du uste geratzen denik euskaldunik ez eraikuntzan ez
artzaintzan. Euskaldunek bazuten fama ona, ez zuten “biharra” galtzen (baja
hartzen), beste batzuek egiten ohi zuten moduan (asteburuan juerga egin
ostean). Ez zen “gatxa” lana topatzea eraikuntzan. Bizkaitarrak, nafarrak eta
“euskaldun-frantsesak” baziren. Zaharrenak 84 urte egingo du laster. 76-78
urtekoak ere geratzen dira (eraikuntzan lan egindakoak). Haiekin biltzen da ostegunero, Louis Basque
Cornerrean. Elkartzen direnean, bazkaldu aurretik pare bat trago, bazkarian
Euskal herriko kontuak, egunerokoak, “zer etorten dan burutara”, musean ez
dute asko jokatzen, dolar bat edo, baina “a cara de perro” ibiltzen dira. Desiatzen
egoten da osteguna etortzeko. Sukaldean ikasi du gehien Euskal Herrian, amari begiratua.
Bertan, pelotari batzuengandik ikasi du. Familikoek estimatzen dute nola
kozinatzen duen. Paella, gisatua, indabak, porru-patatak, edo garbantzuak,
haragi piper batzuekin, “gure estilora” egiten ditu eta ingurukoak “kontent”
egoten dira. Etxean batzuetan hogeitik gora elkartu izan dira.
Urtebetetzeetan ere bat. Etxean egiten du sukaldaritzan.
Ez du seme-alabarik. Txakur bat daukate etxea, eta zahartuta dago
eta hura zaintzen izaten dute zeregina.
Skype-tik komunikatzen da Euskal herriko familiarekin. Covid 19
hasi zenetik ostiralero eurak afaltzen, Iñaki eta Gina bazkaltzen… elkartzen
dira. Lagunekin ere bai. Baina badu gogoa Euskal Herrira joateko. Orain biak
erretiratuta daude eta “egoten ahal”[4]
dira denbora gehiago. Euskal Herrian egoten denean, azkenerako pena handia
hartzen du zeren azkenean ohitzen da eta gustua hartzen dio han egoteari.
Baina Renora ere pozik, gustura daudelako, emaztearen familia guztia bertan
dagoelako eta abar.
Gabonak ospatzeko modua “nahasia” da: Euskal herrian egiten den
antzera neurri batean eta Ameriketan egiten den antzera beste neurri batean.
Oparien kontua antolatzeko (lagun itsua) joko bat egiten dute pertsona bakar
bati oparia emateko eta “burua larregi ez nekatzeko”: “asmakizun” hori ontzat
jotzen du, praktikoa, Ameriketan
ikasia.
Aste Santuan, Ameriketan festa ez dan lez, ez dute zerbait
berezia egiten. Elizara “Eastern time-n” joaten dira. Gardnervillen sasoi
hartan bazkari berezia egiten zen. Elizatik irten eta hara joaten ziren.
Euskaldun asko joaten ziren, baina amerikanoak ere bai, “besta” handia egiten
zuten, “Overland” restaurantean. Elizara Renora joaten ziren. Saint Albert
elizara joan izan dira, eurengandik “urrean” dagoelako.
Gehiena euskaraz egiten du bere Renoko lagunekin, zerbait
ingelesez egiten duen arren. Pixka bat “nahasi” egiten duelako kontzientzia
dauka, gura barik, hainbeste urte pasa eta gero (berrogeitaka urteak),
haiekin jardunda.
Ziortza (PhD student) bere garaian, “euki ez dugun moduko alaba
bat” dela esaten du.
Gaurko gazteek “eskola” daukatela uste du, bere garaikoek ez
bezala, askoz prestatuagoak. Batez ere Renora etortzen eginda, asko
doktoratua eginda, (aipatzen ditu batzuk). Baina juergan dabiltzanean
(batzuk) eurak baino astoago ibiltzen dira, eskola aldetik prestatuago egon
arren. Edanak galdu egiten ditu zenbait gazte, bere iritziz.
Berak uste du Euskal Herritik etorritako gazteak laguntzen
ahalegindu dela. Oso gazte jatorrak tokatu zaizkie eta aportazioa edo
ekarpena eurek berari egin diotela dio. Lagundu ahal izan duena, gustura egin
du.
Saiatu da lehengo zaharren tradizioari eusten, jende ona,
behargina eta zentzu horretan ahalegindu da. Amerikarrek gauza onak esan izan
dituzte euskaldunei buruz.
Bizkaira egindako bisita batean deskubritu zuten euren lehengusu
batzuengandik gertu zegoela Azkoaga abizena zuen okin bat. Deskubritu zuten
John Azcoaga (Sparks-eko Nugget kasinoaren jabea) delakoaren lehengusua zela
eta Renora etorri zen okin ori, bere lehengusua ezagutzera. Pablo deitzen zen
eta harrituta zegoen Nevadan eskaini zioten tratuaz.
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Iñaki was born on 17 April 1955 in Durango. He was apparently born in his paternal aunt’s house, next to
the Marist school. There were five brothers and one sister. Iñaki was the third
child, and his only sister was the fourth. His parents were from villages near Durango. His father was
born in the Salaberri district (the same district where Iñaki Azkuna, the
mayor of Bilbao, was born; his late father and Iñaki were friends). His
mother was born in a district between Durango and Orozketa, in Santa
Apolonia; the farmhouse is called Amuru atzekoa. He went to school in Orozketa from Durango until he was
twelve. At school he mostly played football. He married a pelotari from his
aunt’s family, and after living in Florida, he came to visit the family when
Iñaki was still a child. He lived near the old slaughterhouse. His uncle spoke to the master of the Durango pelota school,
and that was how, at the age of twelve, he entered that school. He made his debut in Barcelona at eighteen. He spent a year
there. While he was playing there, he was offered a contract to go to
Florida. He went to Florida at nineteen. “That was our thing”; for players
who spent their time idling around, that was the dream, among other reasons
because the money was good. Among his brothers and sisters, he is the only one who went
to the United States and has lived there. He was given a three-season
contract. But the playing season lasted only five or six months, and while he
was in Florida the company itself built another fronton in Newport, Rhode
Island. He played there for two seasons. In winter they played in Florida and
in summer in Newport. He went there, yes, with the intention of playing pelota,
but with the intention of returning to the Basque Country. For him, the
Basque Country will always be home. Even now, after so many years, he feels
most comfortable there, in the Basque Country. His body is here, but he feels
that his mind is there, in the Basque Country. When he arrived in America and got to Florida, what struck
him was not seeing a single mountain: “everything is flat.” He says the
beaches are good and that the climate in winter is also very good. In summer,
however, it is “too hot,” and he does not like being there in summer. The
heat in Reno is apparently much drier and easier to bear.
In his first year he lived with one family and another
pelotari. The following year he lived with two others: one from Berritua and
one from Mallorca. Later on, he lived with a man from Markina-Etxebarri, just
the two of them. He was in Newport in 1976 and 1977. In the first year, all
the single men were housed in a “mansino,” a large house for 22 or 24 young
bachelors. For lunch, they would go in groups of three or four to the houses
of the married couples to eat lunch or dinner. The woman of the house cooked
the meal, and the pelotaris paid her a certain amount for it, so they did not
have to cook themselves. In Newport in his second year he lived with only two others,
both from Markina-Etxebarri. He ended up without a contract in Newport, and
they gave him a contract in Reno because the fronton there had just opened.
The man who was manager in Reno had met him in Florida and, because he was
older, stopped playing sport and was appointed manager in Reno. The Reno fronton was inaugurated on 1 May 1978. Iñaki stayed
there until it closed, but it lasted only a short time, a little more than
two and a half years. It closed in 1980, perhaps around November. In Reno he met the woman who would become his wife: Gina
Goñi (whose grandfather was from Navarre). He was doing his military service
through the consulate and received an invitation to go and live in the
Philippines. He spent a year and a half there. That was in the winter of
1980. He got married in 1982, in the Philippines. After that he
returned to Reno, where he started working in the bar of a casino, helping a
bartender. Later he was given a contract in Las Vegas. At that time
they went to the Basque Country so that his wife could get to know his
birthplace. Gina’s parents knew Spanish, but Gina and her brothers and
sisters knew very little. After getting married, both Gina and her siblings
learned Spanish quite well. Gina also speaks Tagalog well. Gina and her
sister knew Josu Aldekoaotalora’s wife, Pilar, and they used to spend time
together. Iñaki knows Josu’s whole family. In the Reno area he knows another man from Durango: “Manny,”
Manuel Villanueva, from the San Fausto district of Durango. He says there are many people from Munitibar in the Reno
area. Most of them came as shepherds. On Thursdays they meet at a restaurant
in Reno for dinner, to play mus, and to chat with other Basques. He has gone back to the Basque Country almost every year. He
sees Durango as completely changed, because so much has been built in his
town: there was hardly anything between the fronton and his house, and now it
is all houses. A large Eroski headquarters was built in his neighbourhood. His wife prefers to go to other places, but he is happiest
in Durango; that is where he enjoys himself most: in the mornings he goes to
the mountains, then spends time with friends… When he goes alone, he does not
go far. After he had gone to Las Vegas, it had not been open for a
year before it closed. Then he went back to the Basque Country for about four
months. He returned to Reno and decided that he had to leave pelota behind. He started working in a gold and silver mine about 30 miles
from Reno. They went down into the shaft, about 300 metres underground. Inside
the tunnels they worked with a helmet and a light. He was there for about a
year. At first it was intimidating. They descended in a box-like cage in
search of gold and silver. With him there were two other Navarrese men, his
friends (they said the elder one did most of the talking…). One was Pedro
Eizagirre, from Sunbilla, now deceased, and the other was Juan Mindegia. By then he was
quite comfortable in English. He learned most of it “by ear,” because he
never liked school. He also learned a great deal from television. Later, when
he worked in a bar at John Ascuaga’s Nugget, he was helping the bartender.
What is curious is that years later Gina, his wife, worked there for 26 years
in convention services, in that same casino.
After the mine, he
began working in “construction.” He mostly worked on installing pipes for
water, gas, and electricity. He spent twenty-five years in that trade. He
belonged to the union, and once he had met the required conditions, he began
drawing a pension from it, so he retired relatively young. Leaving pelota
while still young helped him retire earlier from working life. He knows how
to explain union matters very well. There were many Basques in construction in his area; among
Basques, it was almost a “natural” line of work, although some also worked in
gardening in Nevada. When he entered that field, he was among the youngest,
and now he does not think there are any Basques left either in construction
or in sheep herding. Basques had a good reputation: they did not miss work,
unlike others who might do so after a weekend of drinking. It was not
difficult to find work in construction. There were Biscayans, Navarrese, and
“Basque-French” men. The oldest of them will soon be 84. There are also some
76- to 78-year-olds still around who worked in construction. He meets with
them every Thursday at Louis’ Basque Corner. When they get together, they have a couple of drinks before
lunch, then during the meal they talk about things from the Basque Country,
everyday matters, whatever comes to mind. They do not play much mus—maybe a
dollar or so—but they play hard. He is always eager for Thursday to come. He learned most of his cooking in the Basque Country, by
watching his mother. He also learned from some pelotaris there. His family
appreciates how he cooks. He makes paella, stews, beans, leek-and-potato
dishes, chickpeas with meat and peppers, “in our style,” and people around
him are pleased. At home they have sometimes gathered more than twenty
people. They also do so for birthdays. He cooks at home. He does not have children. They have a dog at home, and it
is old, so caring for it is one of their tasks. He keeps in touch with his family in the Basque Country
through Skype. Since COVID-19 began, they have been having dinner together on
Fridays, with Iñaki and Gina having lunch together as well… they meet with
friends too. But he still feels like going to the Basque Country. Now they
are both retired and can spend more time there. When he is in the Basque
Country, he eventually feels great sadness because he gets used to it and
grows fond of being there. But he is also happy in Reno, because they are
comfortable there, and because all of his wife’s family is there, and so on. Their way of celebrating Christmas is “mixed”: partly as it
is done in the Basque Country and partly as it is done in America. To
organise the gift-giving, they play a game so that only one person has to
give a present, and they do not have to “rack their brains” too much: he
thinks this “invention” is a good, practical idea learned in America. At Easter, since there is no special holiday in America,
they do not do anything out of the ordinary. They go to church on Easter
time. In Gardnerville, a special meal was prepared at that time. After church
they would go there. Many Basques went, but Americans did too; they made it a
big “fiesta” at the Overland restaurant. They went to church in Reno. They
have also gone to Saint Albert’s church because it is close to them. He speaks mostly Basque with his friends in Reno, although
he does use some English. He is aware that he mixes the two a bit, without
meaning to, after so many years—forty-odd years—of being around them. He says that Ziortza, the PhD student, is like “the daughter
we never had.” He believes that today’s young people have “school,” unlike
people of his own generation; they are much better prepared. Especially those
who come to Reno after doing a doctorate, he mentions some of them. But when
they are out partying, some of them behave more foolishly than he did, even
if they are better prepared academically. In his view, drink can undo some
young people. He thinks he has tried to help young people who came from
the Basque Country. They have met very good young people, and he says that in
a sense they have made their contribution to him. Whenever he has been able
to help, he has done so gladly. He has tried to preserve the tradition of the old
generation: good people, hardworking people, and in that sense he has made an
effort. Americans have often said good things about Basques. During a trip to Bizkaia, they discovered that they were
related to some people through a baker surnamed Azkoaga. They found out that
he was a cousin of John Azcoaga, the owner of the Nugget casino in Sparks,
and that this baker named Pablo came to Reno to meet his cousin. Pablo was
astonished by the treatment he had been given in Nevada.
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Patxi eta Begoña Churruca (2021-11-22)
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Patxi Churruca Berriattuan jaio zen eta berari buruzko datu bat
ezagutu dugu Joxe Mallearen liburu bati esker: Shooting from the Lip (2003:53-54): Patxi
Txurruka, born in Berrittu, is the only Bizkaian of the current poets
residing in the United States. He arrived here in 1971 as a sheepherder, and
some years later he moved to Reno, where he lives with his wife Begoña, also
from Bizkaia, and a son. Txurruka, like Goñi, worked in construction and was
employed by several Reno companies until retirement. Txurruka sang bertsoak
at least in two public events that I know of —the 1986 Aberri Eguna
Celebration in Reno’s Rancho San Rafael, which was not recorded, and the 1988
competition in Gardnerville, Nevada. Txurruka says that his bertsolari days
aren't over.
Bazeramatzaten zenbait urte ezkongai eta 1972an ezkondu
(Bizkaian) eta AEBetara etorri ziren. Ezkontzan Ameriketatik etorritako
senar-emazte batzuk etorri ziren, eta Begoñari “baimena” emateko, egin zuten
lan eskaintza bat (AEBetarako baimena izateko), haien etxera lan egitera
joango balitz moduan.
Aireportura heldu eta bihotz-ikara izan zuen Begoñak, pentsatuta
ingelesarik gabe edozein arrazoigaitik itzuli behar bazuen ea nola konponduko
zen itzultzeko etxera.
Lehenengoz San Franciscora etorri ziren, lana bilatzera. Gero
Kaliforniako arrantxo batean lan egin zuten, gizonak (Patxi) ardiekin eta
berak arrantxoko sukaldean eta garbiketa kontuetan. Telebista ez zuen
ulertzen, telefonoa hartzera ez zen ausartzen ez ulertzeko beldurrez. Baina
San Franciscon irrati-kasette bat erosi zuen eta ardian zegoen lekura joan,
musika jarri eta jota dantzatzen hasten zen.
Aldameneko arrantxotik Imanol izeneko batek (katalejuak zeuzkan
eta Begoña ikusten zuen urrutitik) galdetu zion arrantxoko nagusiari: “¿Todas
las vascas son así de locas?”, erantzuna, “¿Pues? Pues mira a esa loma todos
los días de una y media a dos y verás a esa vasca bailar”. Bederatzi hilabetez egon zen horretan.
Behientzako belarra ureztatzen zuen, botak jantzita.
Gero senarra Patxik lanpostu bat lortu zuen eraikuntzan.
Eskaintza euskal pic-nic batean egin zion ezagun euskaldun batek.
1977an, beraz, trailer-house batean bizitzen hasi ziren
(eraikuntza enpresako nagusiak haientzako eskainia). Renora joan ziren
bizitzera, Patxik erretiroa hartu zuen arte.
Reno aldean krisi ekonomiko bat zen urtean eraikuntza gelditu zen
zeharo eta arrantxo batera joan ziren lan egitera urte betez (1981-1982).
Baina gero berriro itzuli ziren eraikuntzan lan egitera.
Seme bat izan zuten eta Franki jarri zioten izena. Sparks-eko
Josu Aldekoaotalora eta beraren emaztea Pilarren lagun minak egin ziren eta
matrimonio bien seme-alabak ere oso lagun minak izan ziren. Euren artean euskaraz hitz egiten dute. Semeak ere polito ikasi
zuen euskaraz, nahiz eta azkenaldian asko ez duen praktikatu.
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Patxi Churruka was born in Berriatua,
and we learned one important fact about him thanks to Joxe Mallea’s book Shooting
from the Lip (2003: 53–54): Patxi Txurruka, born in Berrittu, is
the only Bizkaian of the current poets residing in the United States. He
arrived here in 1971 as a sheepherder, and some years later he moved to Reno,
where he lives with his wife Begoña, also from Bizkaia, and a son. Txurruka,
like Goñi, worked in construction and was employed by several Reno companies
until retirement. Txurruka sang bertsoak at least in two public events that I
know of—the 1986 Aberri Eguna Celebration in Reno’s Rancho San Rafael, which
was not recorded, and the 1988 competition in Gardnerville, Nevada. Txurruka
says that his bertsolari days aren’t over.
Patxi and Begoña had been engaged for several years before
marrying in Bizkaia in 1972 and then moving to the United States. Several
Basque couples who had come from America attended their wedding. In order for
Begoña to obtain permission to enter the United States, one of those couples
formally offered her a job as if she were going to work in their home,
allowing her to obtain the necessary visa. When they arrived at the airport, Begoña was terrified. She
worried that, if for any reason she were sent back because she did not speak
English, she would not even know how to manage the journey back home. They first went to San Francisco in search of work. Later
they found employment on a ranch in California. Patxi worked with the sheep,
while Begoña worked in the ranch kitchen and took care of the cleaning. She
could not understand television, and she was afraid to answer the telephone
because she feared she would not understand what people were saying. However,
while in San Francisco she bought a portable radio-cassette player. She would
take it out to where the sheep were grazing, turn on the music, and start
dancing the jota. A man named Imanol, who worked on a neighbouring ranch and
used binoculars to watch Begoña from a distance, once asked the ranch owner,
“Are all Basque women this crazy?” The owner replied, “Why don't you look at
that hill every day from half past one until two? You'll see that Basque
woman dancing.” She spent nine months living that way. She also irrigated
the fields where hay for the cattle was grown, wearing rubber boots as she
worked. Later, Patxi found a job in the construction industry. A
Basque acquaintance offered him the position during a Basque picnic. In 1977 they moved into a trailer home that Patxi’s employer
provided for them. They settled in Reno, where they remained until Patxi
retired. During one particularly difficult year, the construction
industry around Reno came to a complete standstill because of the economic
crisis. As a result, they spent about a year (1981–1982) working on a ranch
before Patxi was able to return to construction. They had a son, whom they named Franki. They became very
close friends with Josu Aldekoaotalora, from Sparks, and his wife Pilar.
Their children also grew up as close friends. Patxi and Begoña have always spoken Basque to each other.
Their son also learned to speak Basque quite well, although in recent years
he has had few opportunities to practise it.
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Joxe Churruca[5]
(Berriatua, 1940)
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Joxe Churruca 2023ko
otsailaren 25ean egin genion lehenengo elkarrizketa, baina ordutik beste
batzuk egin dizkiogu, apurka-apurka datuak eta anekdotak jasoaz. Azken
elkarrizketa 2024ko urtarrilaren 2an egin genion. Bere etxean, Sparks-en egin genuen hitzordua. Emaztea filipinarra
da, baia haren gurasoak euskal jatorrikoak. Emaztearen aita Muniosguren
pelotaria, zesta-puntakoa izan zen. Euskaraz
egin dugu elkarrizketa, nahiz eta gaztelaniaz edota ingelesez tarteka ere
hitz egiten duen. 1940ko abuztuaren 22an Aitzola baserrian jaio zen (Berriatua
herrian, Aztarrika auzoan, baina eleizaz Ondarroakoa izan zen). Bataiatu
Ondarroan egin zen. Lau anaia-arreba dira. Baserrian lau/bost behi, txahalak…
eta baserritik itsasoa ikusten zen (bigarren pisuko lehiotik, Joxe jaio
zeneko leihotik). Joxe zaharrena da. Bigarrena Ondarroan bizi da. Hirugarren
anaia, Patxi, Renon bizi da (Begoñarekin ezkonduta). Laugarrena Berriatuan
bizi da eta 70 urte dauzka. Guraso bian
Berriatuakoak izan ziren. Ama, Laka familiakoa. Bere aitite (amaren
partetik), argina zen, Bilboko udaletxean baditu lanak eginak. Amaren
familian baziren hamaika neba-arreba, eta gazteena hil zen laurogeita
hamazortzi urterekin, duela urte gutxi. Bere aitite Markinatik Aztarrikara
mugitu zen familiarekin, baserrian (Aitzola) bizitzera. Aita 68 urterekin hil
zen, ama 91 urterekin. Bere amama (amaren partetik) Andresa Uriarte Bereikua
deitzen zen, eta 100 urterekin hil zen. Eskolan 14 urtera arte egon zen. Gero lanean aritu zen: baserriak
17 urtera arte. Gero Ondarruko autobus konpainian (“Compañía de autobuses La
Esperanza”), bertako garajean lan egin zuen, 18 urte bete arte. 18 urte bete
zituen egunean karneta atera zuen (“de segunda”), eta GMC kamioiak gidatzen
hasi zen. Bazuen
osaba bat Berriatuan “Bar Central” zeukana eta Jose María Plaza deitzen zen.
Osaba hark Berriatuako sekretarioarekin batera (Jose Manuel Arriola) serreria
bat zeukaten. Han hasi zen lanean, kamioiarekin atzera eta aurrera,
soldaduskara joan arte (bi urte pasatxo). Bere osabak gutun edo idazki bat egin zion Joxeri autoritateei
erakusteko. Behin batean Larruskain auzoan lexarra bat (leizar bat) hartuta
bazihoan Zarautz-Zumaia aldera (barkoaren killa edo gila egiteko). Poliziak
altoa bota, Joxek idazki hori erakutsi eta poliziak paso eman zion: “ya puede
seguir con mucho cuidado”. Jainkoak bera zaindu duela iruditzen zaio momentu
horretan. Soldaduska “marinan” egin zuen, nahiz eta baserritarrak gehien
batean lehorrera joaten ziren. Bi urte eman zituen bertan eta hasieran
Ferrolera[8]
joan zen “cualtel de instrucciones-era”. Bandera “juratu” ostean, gizon bat
Canarias kruzerotik[9]
etorri zitzaion. Tartean esaten du Crucero Baleares izan zela Canariaseko
aurrekoa, baina hondoratua izan zela (bere osaba bat bertan hil zen). Gizon
hura koartelera joan zitzaion eta berarendako bazeukala lana esan zion. Gizon
hark eraman zuen Joxe Crucero Canariaseko komandantearengana. Entrebista egin zion eta ondo irten zuen
eta bertan 18 hilabete eman zituen. Emaztea Señora Remedios deitzen zen eta
hamaika seme-alaba zituen. Goizean komandantearen etxera joaten zen (El Sol
kalea, El Ferrolen), kotxez eramaten zuen barkura eta zerbait enkargatzen
zion egiteko. Zereginik egon ezean itxaroten zuen bitartean zerbait egiten
zuen. Gogoratzen du sasoi hartako istorio bat. “Crucero Santa Maria”
aipatzen du, bidaiari zibilendako. Gero Portugalgo kostan piratak bazirela
ere gogora ekartzen du. Kontua da badirudi sekuestratu edo bahitu egin zutela
“Crucero” hura eta, kontatzen du Joxek, Frankok agindu zien marinako
militarrei barku hura zegoen tokira joateko eta, ahal bazuten, libre
ekartzeko. Hara joan ziren eta barkua ikustean “bi pepinazo” bota zituzten
barku haren “puente de mandora”: barkua kotrol gabe geratu zen. Cruzero
Canarias-ek jaso zuen deia kontu horretan laguntzeko (Joxe Churruka barruan
egonda), baina hara ailegatu orduko beste militarrek kontrolatua zuten
Crucero Santa Maria-ren egoera eta, beraz, bertan behera geratu zen “misio”
hura. Baina han zeudela, Joxek ez daki zergatik baina Afrikarantza abiatu
ziren (“Crucero Canarias-ekoak”). Guinea Espainola (horrela deitzen zen
orduan) izan ei zen singladura haren destinoa eta han beltzak ikusi zituen
lehendabiziko aldiz. Gero Afrikako beste irla bat bisitatu zuten eta azkenean
Ferrolera itzuli ziren.
Bi urteren ondoren soldaduska bukatu eta “Bilbora” itzuli zen. (
Ondarrutar bat ezagutzen zuen lehendik, Paco, Bilbon almazen bat zeukana: patatak
banatzen zituen hainbat lekutan eta bera eta biok elkartu ziren Ferrolen
halako egun batean eta Pacok esan omen zion ez zalantzarik izateko:
soldaduska bukatutakoan berarengana joateko eta lan horretan hasteko. Joxe
oso eskertuta sentitzen da eta gogoratzen du hamaika aldiz eman zizkiola
eskerrak. Horren jarraian “carnet de primera” atera ei zuen eta Eibarren
“Construcciones Amaña” delakoan egin zuen lan, bertan “kontratista” bat bere
osaba zelako (José María Laka): han 1966 arte egon zen (hiru urte inguru),
Ameriketara etorri arte, hain zuzen. Eibarren zegoela izan zituen bi lagun ETAn zeudenak. Egun batean
atxilotu (Joxe barne), koartelera eraman, galderak egin eta biharamunean
bidali zituzten etxera. Gerora jakin zuen lagun horietako bat Poliziak “garbitu”
zuela eta pentsatu zuen onena izango zela alde egitea egoera horretatik.
Ameriketara etortzeko ideia orduantxe sortu zitzaion, “txarragoa” ezin izango
zelakoan. Ordurako harriak altxatzen ibiltzen zen (hamabi arroakoak,
kubikoak). Urtain boxeolariaren lagun-mina ere bazen (Jose Ramon Ibar),
boxeolaria izan baino lehenago hura harrijasotzailea izan zen eta Joxek ere
indarra zeukan lez, ba “zeregin” berean ibiltzeagatik lagun egin ziren. Akordura ekartzen du Eibarren bizi omen zela Gallastegi izeneko
harrijasotzaile beterano bat (sasoi hartako pelotari[10]
baten anaia zen Gallastegi hura), 53 urterako 11 eta erdiko arroako harri
kubikoa altxatzen zuena. Horren “preparadore” edo entrenatzailea ere bazen
Joxe. Arraten ba ei zen “desafio” bat Gallastegiren eta Urtainen
artean. 13 arroa Gallastegik eta Urtainek 18 kilo gehiago altxatu behar
zituzten. Joxe laguntzen ari zen bitartean eta entrenamenduetan Joxe kapaz
zen 11 arroako kubikoa altxatzeko. Berak dio berak nahi izan balu erraz
irabaziko zuela harriak jasotzen. Bera ikusita, argala izanik, inork ez zuen
esango horretarako kapaz izango zela. Ez zen plazara atera, Arraten izan
ezik. Saiatu gara elkarrizketa berbideratzen Ameriketarako etorrera.
Berriatuako lagun bat Kalifornia iparraldean zegoen, Ramón Celaya,
Willows-en, lanean. Lagun horrek jakin zuen Joxek etorri nahi zuela eta gutun
bat bidali zuen nora etorri behar zuen esanez. Ameriketara heldu eta
biharamunean “armortzua” jatera joan ziren. Maiordomoa zen Goihenetxe
(“frantsez-euskalduna” bere esanetan), eta jaten ari zirela etorri zen euren
nagusia “Colly French”, 82 urte zeuzkan orduan eta Kaliforniako familien
artea 4. postuan zegoen negozio onenak zituenen artean. Berak kalkulatzen du
Espainia dela 500 mila akre handiagoan Kalifornia baino: datu hori buruz
esaten digu, besteak beste, adierazteko Espainia ez dela askoz handiagoa.
Ameriketara etorri zenean arrantxoko nagusiak laurogei urte
zeuzkan Colly French deitzen zen nagusi hura. 1966ko irailaren 14an heldu zen
Ameriketara Joxe: ordurako 26 urte zituen bete berriak (abuztuan). Aztarrika auzoan berrogei bat etxe zeuden, Ondarrotik
Lekeitiorako bidean lau kilometrotara. Chicon 1966tik 1983ra arte egon ei zen eta bertan 22.000 ardi ei
zeuden. Argazki batzuekin hasi gara. Chico[11]
herrian (Kalifornia) ateratakoak dira. 80 hamarkada. Bera egondako arrantxoko
langile mexikar baten argazkia ere erakusten dit: Miguel Romo deitzen da,
estimu handia dio. Erakusten dit argazki bat, artalde bat bertan ageri dela, eta
galdetzen dit ea kalkulatzen dudan zenbat buru dauden. Nik mila esaten dut
eta berak hiru mila eta bostehun.
Berak zaindutako edo “gobernatutako” artaldea zen hura. Saldua izatera
zihoan artalde hura eta aurreko egunean ateratako argazkia da. Biharamunean
bildotsak “aparta” eta kamioian sartzen zen artalde hura. 1976 urtean izango
zen argazkia ateratako urtea. Kamioien argazkiak ere erakusten dizkit. Erraz etorri zela iruditzen zaio, lana zuelako Kalifornian,
bazuelako nora etorri. Baina orain AEBetara jendea errazegi datorrela iruditzen zaio,
mugak edo fronterak edozeinentzat zabalegi daudela deritzo eta hori ez du
ondo ikusten. Gainera, pentsatzen du jende asko sartzen ari dela “txarra”,
herrialde honi kaltea egiteko asmotan. Izango balitz soilik jendea sartzen
dena ogia irabazteko, “jateko”, bera ez legoke horren kontra. Modu grafikoan
esaten du norbaitek esan izan bazion duela hamar urte edo AEBetan mugak edo
fronterak “zabalik” daudela ez zuen sinistuko. Kritikoa da oraingo egoera
politikoarekiko: “unthinkable” dela uste du. Dibagazio honen ostean, berak gogoratzen du hegaldi hartan bera
bakarrik etorri zela, baina denbora gutxi pasatuta, bere auzoko Manuel Loza:
bera baino bi urte zaharragoa eta aspaldi hilda dagoela diosku. “Kazan” edo ehizan ari zela (basa ahuntzak
harrapatzen edo) atake bat emanda joan ei zen. Hegazkina San Franciscora heldu zen eta handik Sacramentora joan
omen ziren. Sacramentora bere nagusiaren maiordomoa (“euskaldun-frantsesa”,
Goihenetche) joan zen bere bila. Zeharka esaten digu haien euskara
(Iparraldekoa) zeharo ulertzera ailegatu zela eta eurekin mintzatzen zela
normaltasun handiz (euskaraz). Ameriketara etorri eta lehenengo inpresioa izan zen hau
“ikusgarria” zela. Etxera deitu eta
hunkituta egiten zuen negar esanez etxekoei lasai egoteko, oso herrialde onean
zegoela. Sacramento-tik San Franciscora joan eta “hiri garbia” zela esaten du
Joxek, “lurretik jan” zenezakeen, hain garbi zegoen-eta. “Joan orain San
Francisco-ra” esaten du; izan ere, ez da aspaldi joan eta ez du joan nahi,
giroa gaiztotu delako edo. Bere familia bezela Louis Elu[12]
zuten, Broadway-en jatetxe bat zutenak. Hara askotan joandakoak dira. Hunkitu
egiten da gaur egungo Amerikan zein egoeran dagoen eta ideia “komunistak”
nola sartu diren.
Willows herria, Colly “French” zen nagusia. Arrantxo hartan ez
zegoen jende asko. Irlandar bat zegoen lanean eta bera ailegatu zenean ez
zegoen mexikarrik (nagusiak ez zituen mexikarrak hartu nahi). Gernikar bat
ere bazegoen, Foruko bat eta Bolibarko beste bat. Ailegatu eta bigarren egunean, nagusiak esan zion etortzeko
(eskuko hatz erakuslearekin keinu eginda): ingelesez ez zekin orduan Joxek,
baina jarraitu zion. “Potreroan” lan
egiteko esan zion (korralak edo antzekoak zirela ulertu diot) eta lan
“erraza” zen: ardiak leku batetik bestera eramatea. 30.000 akre zeuzkan. Arrantxo hura hainbat zatitan zegoen
banatuta eta kontua zen ardiak mugitzea “sekzio” batetik bestera janaria
amaitzen zenean. Bildotsak koskortzen zirenean saldu egiten zituzten (amatik
kenduta), kamioi batzuetan sartuta. “Amak” (ardiak) beeka gelditzen ziren
euren umeak kenduta. Nagusiarekin pick-upean askotan joaten zen eta nagusiak beti
gidatzen zuen: Joxek laguntzen zion harresietako ateak edo langak irekitzen
eta gero ixten. Zereginetako bat zen gatza ardiei ematea eta horretarako
almazen batera joaten ziren. Egun batean nagusiak esan zion hiru sako gatz
hartzeko (bakoitzak 100 libra ingurukoa zen, 45 kilo). Hiruak batera hartu
zituen, beso banatan eta sorbaldan. Hirurak pick-upean deskargatu (soinu
kolpe batez). Nagusiak esan zion “no, no, no, I want three!”, eta Joxek “you
got three there!”. Nagusia harrituta geratu zen Joxeren indarra ikusita, ez
zuen horrelakorik sekula ikusi. “Ez
zuen sinesten ahal”[13],
esaten du momentu batean. Ordutik aurrera nagusi horrek bere lagunei esaten
zien Joxek egindakoa “three bags!”, eta besoaren bizepsa erakusten zien
indartsua zelako keinu eginez, “Joe” izena aipatuta. Gizon hark asko maite
zuen Joxe. Gogoratzen du 1968ko martxoaren bukaeran bere nagusia,
hospitalean zegoelarik, hil zela. Biharamunean jakin zuen Ameriketako
presidentea izandakoa, D. David Eisenhower ere hil zela[14].
Pentsatzen du nagusi hark zerbait utziko ziola berari, hainbeste
aberastasun izanda. Baina ez zuen pentsatzen hain azkar hiltzea. Herrian
banku bat zeukan, Colly French National Bank. Baptista[15]
omen zen sinismenez eta harekin batera elizara joaten zen noizean behin Joxe.
Haren emaztea ere “santatzat” hartzen du Joxek. French nagusi horren
kapritxoetako bat zen Levis prakak erostea: txikia zen eta gerrian ondo
geratuz gero, luzeran asko sobratzen zen. Ez zituen prakak mozten: barrenera
tolestu eta altxatu egiten zuen eta erositako Levis horiek “usteldu” edo
gastatu arte erabiltzen zituen. Joxe Churruca Ameriketara etorri eta arropa erosi behar izan
zuen. Baina horretarako herriko bankuan (nagusiaren bankuan) bazituzten 15
mila dolar horrelako gastuetarako. Craick Owens izeneko batek errentatu egin zuen arrantxoa (French
hilda gero): behiekin ibili zen beti eta harendako lanean hasi zen Joxe.
Gizon ona dela ere esaten du, eta oso altua: Sei “pie” (feet) eta hiru
pulgada (inch) (Metro eta 90 zentimetro inguru) eta pisuan 350 libra inguru
(153 kilogramo inguru). Gizon hura hil zen eta antza denez bankuak hartu zuen
arrantxo hori. Nahiko luke jakin zer geratu zen arrantxo horrekin hil baino
lehen. Handik alde egin eta gero bizpahiru urtez joan da ikustera eta
negargura sartu zaio, “fenza” denak behean. Zaldientzako lekua ere botata,
eta abar. Egun bakar batean “ez duzu rantxoa ikusten ahal”[16]
esaten du. Gero Chico[17]
herrira joan zen lan egitera. Arrantxo hartan Jimmy “Burres” zen nagusia.
Erregadiako terrenoa zen nagusiki (alfalfa, besteak beste). 5000 ardi inguru
zituen: Joxe 20.000 ardiekin lan egin zuen eta Chicokoa askoz errazagoa
iruditu zitzaion. Hiru bat urte eman
zituen han. Horren ostean lan hori utzi egin zuen: orduan anaia Patxi Renon
zegoen eta esan zion lana topatuko zuela eta halaxe egin zuen:
“kontrukzinoan” edo eraikuntzan topatu zen lana, eta 1986 urtea izango zen,
gutxi gora-behera. Lan horretan zegoela, urte betea baino lehen Joxe jarri
zuten besteei erakusteko postuan. “You can do it!” esaten zioten eta onartzen
du orduan burua oso ondo zeukala. Indarra erakustaldiak ere egin zituen
lanbide hartan. Patxi anaia 1969an edo joan zen Ameriketara, Joxek gogoratzen
duenez. Anaia gazteena ere (Felix) Ameriketan egondakoa da (17 urterekin
etorri zen), lau urtez edo bizi izan zen, baina Euskal Herrira itzuli zen han
bizitzen jarraitzeko: hura ere indartsua zen. Joxe Maguregui gogoratzen du, hainbat urtetan Ameriketan bizi
izandakoa eta orain Ondarroako zahar-etxe batean bizi da. Berarekin
Argentinako soccer (futbola) txapelketara joan zen. Urte batean, Kalifornian ardiekin lanean zegoela, Virginiako
arrantxo batera joateko gonbitea jaso zuen: hara eraman zuten eta arrantxoko
nagusia mila akre inguru zeuzkan. Ardi berezi batzuk haztea zuten helburu,
produkzioa handitzeko. Bederatzi egunen buruan esan zien ustiapen edo
esplotazio horri ez ziola etorkizunik ikusten, ez zegoela ondo antolatuta,
eta halaxe geratu zen kontua. Joxe itzuli zen beren lantokira eta gerora ez
zuen Virginiako ustiapen horren berririk izan. Helikoptero bat zegoen (errentatzen zuten) bera egondako
arrantxoan eta koioteak hiltzeko erabiltzen zituzten: koiote asko garbitu
zituela dio, errifle batekin, helikopterotik. Hasierako urteetan hiru urterik batean joaten zen “etxera”,
Euskal Herrira. Kartaz eta telefonoz komunikatzen zen familiekoekin. Gaur
egun ia astero telefonoz hitz egiten du.
“Frantses-euskaldunekin” asko ibilitakoa da eta haien euskara
ondo ulertzen du. Bere azalpena da Joxe txikitan eta gaztetan “giputzekin”
asko ibiltzen zela, asko mintzatzen zela eta asko gustatzen zitzaiola hango
euskara, bera bizkaitarra den arren. Beraz, beste euskalkiak ezagutzeko joera
izan du beti. Agustin Garde, ta Telesforo Garde ezagutu zituen (Willows-en)
hasieran egondako arrantxoan. Granit Constructicon Company-n hasieran eta gero beste batera
joan zen. Bigarren konpainia horretako nagusia eta haren emaztea gogoratzen
ditu, gutxira hil zirenak. Lurpeko lana egiten zuten, “saneamientos,
electricidad, agua…” esaten dit gaztelaniaz. Konstrukzinoko lan horretan baziren beste euskaldun gazte batzuk:
Joxe Arriaga, Juan… (Munitibarkoa), Jose Eguen…
Emaztea Renon ezagutu zuen, anaiaren etxean. Muniosguren bere
aitaginarrebaren datu batzuk ematen dizkit segituan, zesta-puntan pilotaria
izan zena. Ezagutu egin zuen eta gizon ona zela esaten du: pelota laga eta
gero, juez ibili zen (“juez de línea”, zehazten du); alegia, frontoietan
egiten zuen lan. “Plasencia de las armas”-en sortua, Plazentzin. 1978an
etorri zen Renora bere alabekin: alaba horietako batekin, Rosariorekin
ezkondu zen. 55 urterekin ezkondu zen Rosariorekin, eta berak 38 edo 39 urte
izango zituen. Uste du ezkondu zela 1995ean. Emazteak esan zion 29 urte
beteko zirela laster ezkondu zirenetik: denbora oso azkar pasatzen dela uste
du. MGM kasinoan (gaur geun Gran Sierra Resort edo deitzen da)
ezkondu ziren: antza denez horkoa ezkontza zibila izan zen eta gero “elizan
ezkondu” ziren. Bere aita nola libratu zen Gernikako bonbardaketan kontatzen du.
Gaztelaniaz kontatzen du, hortik gertu dagoelako familiako bat, gaia atera
duena eta euskaraz ez dakiena. Ingresatuta omen zegoen Gernikan eta erizaina
batek esan ei zion ahal bazuen ibili Gernikatik alde egiteko. Gernikatik
Lekeitiora bazihoan kamioi bat, behiak eramateko, “steam”ezkoa zen
(baporezkoa). Kamioi hura gelditu zen: hiruzpalau pertsona zeuden kabinan eta
atzeko kajoian igotzeko esan zioten. Egin zuen ahalegina kutxara igotzeko
baina ezin zuen (operazioa izan zuen hanka batean): aldamenean bazegoen
emakumezko baserritar bat ortuan lan egiten. Emakume gazte hark ikusi zuen
ezin zuela eta harengana joan, ipurditik bultzatu eta kamioiaren “kutxara”
bota egin zuen. Kamioiez Lekeitiora joan zen eta han taxi bat hartuta etxera
joan zen. Joxek esaten du bonbardeoaren egun berean izan zen. “Something
was gonna happen”. Durangokoa lehenagoa izan zen. Josu Aldekoaotalorak esaten
du astebete lehenago izan zela bonbardaketa: hirurehun pertsona inguru hil
zirela esaten du. Luis Elu gogoratzen du, San Franciscoko Broadway kalean
restaurante bat omen zuen eta hotela. Luis Elu zesta-puntako pelotaria izan
zen 60ko hamarkadan eta Markinan hazi zen. Egun Floridan bizi da. 1975-1980 tarte horretan izan zuen tratua. Euskal Herrian ezagutu
zuen, baina tratua Ameriketan izan zuen. Urtain boxeolariarekin Ameriketara etorri baino lehen izan zuen
tratua, lehenago harriak jasotzen ibili zelako eta gero boxeo kontuekin.
Joxek Urtainek (98 kg) baino gutxixeago pisatzen zuen, baina Urtainek esaten
zion, Joxek zeukan pisurako (88 kg), ez zuela ikusi bera baino
indartsuagorik. Gogoratzen du Urtain Ameriketara etorri zela (1972an edo 1973an),
bere managerrekin, nahi zuen Pedro Carrasco ikusi: Madrilen elkarrekin bizi
ziren (Calle Victor de la Serna kalean dela pentsatzen du, baina ez dago
seguru). Carrasco-ren borroka bat ikustera joan ziren Los Angelesera eta
orduako LAko alkatea eta emaztea Joxeren ondoan egon ziren borroka (boxeokoa)
ikusten. Urtainek, nahi zuen arren, ez zuen borrokarik egin Ameriketan. Joe
Frezier-ek (1944-2011,
orduan Ameriketan “itzala” egiten ziona Urtaini) ez zuen nahi. Urtainek behin esan zion, borroka baten aurretik Joxeri “Hi atera
behar nauk borroka irabaztean hire sorbaldan zezen plazatik, irabaziko diat
borroka”: Bilboko Vista Alegre zezen plazan zeukan borroka hura. Urtainez gogoratzean negarra irteten zaio: bere ustez sekula ez
zuen gauza txarrik egin, izugarri indartsua zen. Inguruan jende susmagarria
zuen eta proposamen gehienei baietz esaten zien. Urtainen aita difuntua
ezagutu zuen (46 urterekin hil omen zen), eta izugarri indartsua ei zen. 16
arroako harria altxatzen zuen (harrien pisua arroekin neurtzera ohituta dago
Joxe). Urtainen arrebarekin (orduan “ikusgarria” ei zen) laguntasuna zeukan:
Elvira deitzen ei zen eta aizkolari batekin ezkondu zen (ez da gogoratzen). Pedro Carrascorekin harremanetan Urtainen bitartez izan zuen.
“Mafia” ere bere inguruan zuela uste du. Zaila egiten zaio dena “aditzea”
(ulertzea): boxeolariek beste “hizkuntza” zerabilten, Joxek ulertzen ez
zuena, “mafia” kontuak aipatzen zituztelako. Baina bai Urtainek bai Carrascok
lortu zuten mafian gehiegi ez sartzea. Garai hartan Carrascok borroka batean
(irabazita) hirurehun mila dolar irabaztera heltzen zen. Tipo elegantea, liraina zela iruditzen
zaio, peso “ligero”, arina zen arren. “Konstrukzinoan” edo eraikuntzan bi urte eskaz egin zuela lan
dio, nahiz eta ez den gogoratzen zehatz-mehatz noiz hasi zen. Gero onartzen
du agian hiru urtez egin zuela lan. Erretiratu 61 edo 62 urterekin egin zen
(2001ean, gure kalkuluen arabera). Erretiratu orduko (eraikuntzan zebilela),
jada ibiltzen zen pultso txapelketetan (arm-wrestling) parte hartzen, lagun
batek berotuta. 50 urtetik gorako mailan aritzen zen eta hainbat txapelketetan
parte hartu izan du, Ameriketan eta Europoan: Manchesterrera egin zuen bidaia
gogoratzen du, 66 urte zeuzkan orduan, kontrarioak gazteagoak ziren
bitartean, baina 50 urte baino zaharragoak. Ameriketako federazioko batek
deitu zion eta proposatu zion parte hartzea, eta bidaiak eta bestelakoak
euren esku gelditzen zirela. Gogoratzen ditu beste “arm-wrestling-ekoak”.
West coast-en ibili da AEBari dagokionez. Manchesterrekoa izan (agian 2006)
eta beste sei urtez jarraitu zuen (2012ra arte agian). “Tio” bat bazeukan, Juan Laca, Ontarion (Oregon estatuan). 93
urte zituen bera eta anaia bat bisitatzera joan zirenean (14 edo 15 urterekin
etorri zen).
Kepa Bilbao Laca bere lehengusu bat ekartzen du gogora. Bere
ustez Berriatuako gizon famatu edo handiena. 18 urterekin Txilera joan omen
zen “fraile” estudiatzera. Gero abade egin zen. Hara joan eta 15 urtera edo
galdetu ei zien bere nagusiei ea berak, fraile izanda, “korritzen”[18]
ahal zuen negozio bat, behartsuei laguntzeko. Fraileek ez zioten uzten, baina
esan zioten “kanbiatzen” bazen apaiz izatera berak nahi zuena egin zezakeela
Txilen. Zaharrentzako etxeak egin
zituen, kolejioak eta bestelako lan asistentzial asko jarri zituen martxan:
“herejiak”[19]
egin zituela dio. Behin kontratista batek (euskal jatorrikoa) Txilen porrot
egin zuen bere enpresan eta laguntza eske joan zen Kepa Bilbaorengana: honek
lagundu zioen eta urteen buruan kontrastisa horrek, esker onez, hiru
apartamentu eman zizkion Kepari, beraren karitatezko zereginetarako. Joxe gogoratzen da Kepa hiltzear zegoela esan ziola bere
familiari Txilera etortzeko berak ordainduko ziela bidaia eta dena.
Familiakoak etorri zirenean Kepa zegoen gelatik pasatu ziren eta, nahiz eta
heriotza hurbil izan, pozik zegoelako edo familiako guztiei irribarre egin
zien. Joxek santutzat dauka bere lehengusu hori. Bi aldiz joan zen
emaztearekin Txilera Kepa Bilbao hura bisitatzera. “Berarekin hizketan
zeundela, aditzen zenuen Jaungoikoa bertan zela, ez dago besterik” eta
horrelako sententzia botatzen ditu Joxek. Ezkondu (55 urtekin) eta gutxira erretiroa hartu zuen. Gero asko
bidaiatu du, Txilera, bi aldiz, Argentinara, Europara (Ingalaterra, Irlanda,
Italian, Servian), Lur Santuan, Isaelen, Jodan-en, Egipton… Lagunekin eta, batez ere,
emaztearekin. Emaztea, Rosarito Muniosguren[20],
alarguna zen eta bi seme-alaba zituen ezkondu aurreko senarrarekin. Gizona 46
urterekin hil zitzaion. Bilbo bisitatzea gustatzen zaio, “otsoa” jarrita dagoen leku hori
(Guggenheim museoa). Ezkondu ezkero bi urterik baten Euskal Herrira joan dira, Lekeitio,
Bilbo, Markina, Bolibar… Asterrikako
baserria (familiarena) salduta daukate, harakin edo karnizero batek erosi
zuen.
Renon zeukaten beste etxea erakusten dit argazkian: batez ere
teilatuko argazkiak ditu erakusteko eta esaten dit teilatua osorik berak egin
zuela, inongo langileren laguntzarik gabe. Erretiratu ostean holako lanak
egiten ibili da, bera bakarrik (“inork mailua leku batetik bestera mugitu
barik”, ezta hori ere). San Rafael parkean, alde horretan zeukaten etxe hura.
1700 foot edo zeuzkan. Orain bizi den etxean ere teilatua konpontzen aritu zen duela bi
urteko abuztuaren 18an. Euria ari zuen orduan, eta trumoiak. Igotzeko
eskaileratik gora zegoela pentsatu zuen: “txo! go back!”, baina ez zuen
kasurik egin eta handik jausi zen, altura handi batetik. Lurrean ahoz gora
geratu zen eta besoak zabalik (“Jesukristo gurutzean bezala”, berak esaten
duenez). Buruak kolpea jaso zuen (odol ixuria izan zuen burmuinean) eta koxis
hezurra ere puskatu zen. Odolduta egon zen. Konortea galduta tarteka, bestetan
esna… “Dotorrak”[21] joaten zitzaizkion (emazteak kontatzen zien
gertatutakoa): medikuek ez zuten sinesten Joxe bizirik egotea, pentsatzen
zuten hilko zela altura horretatik erorita. Ingresatuta astebetez egon zen “zaintza berezietan”, bizirik
ateratzeko eta beste hilabete gutxieneko mobilitatea errekuperatu arte. Tarte
horretan burua “joanda” zeukala esaten du. Medikuen ez zuten sinesten ahal[22].
Joxek dio “listo” zegoela hiltzeko, eta uste zuen hilko zela (aurreneko aste
gogor hartan, beharbada): hori kontatzean hunkitzen da berriz eta
“prayer-chain” bat egon zelako bere parrokian (Immaculate Conception Parish)
esaten du bizirik dagoela, Jainkoan “beste” aukera eman diola. Joxek
emazteari esaten zion ez diskutitzeko medikuekin. Hondarrerako[23]
lagun egin zen medikuekin. Gero kontatzen dit duela hiruzpalau aste gertatutako beste
“jausaldi” bat: kalean paseoan zihoala jausi edo erori egin zen. Auzoan
zebilen emakume bat joan zitzaion laguntzera eta esan ei zion: “ez beldurtu,
ni enfermera naiz”. Emakume onbera horrek esan ei zion “gaur goizean miscarriage[24]
izan dut”. Joxe hunkitu egiten da jakitean tragedia hori izan ostean emakume horrek lagundu
ziola: eta halaxe egin. Puntu batzuk eman zizkion buruan, etxera eraman eta
ondo zaindu zuen (nahiz eta egoera triste batekin abiatu). Emazteak galdetu
zion emakume hari: zer egin dezakegu zure alde? Eta berak erantzun zion:
“pray” (otoitz egin).
|
Joxe Churruca We conducted our first
interview with Joxe Churruca on February 25, 2023, and several follow-up
interviews over the following months, gradually collecting additional
information and anecdotes. The final interview took place on January 2, 2024. We met him at his home in
Sparks, Nevada. His wife is Filipino, although her parents were of Basque
descent. Her father, Muniosguren, had been a professional cesta punta
player. The interview was
conducted primarily in Basque, although Joxe occasionally switched to Spanish
or English. Joxe was born on August
22, 1940, at the Aitzola farmhouse in the Aztarrika neighborhood of
Berriatua. Although the farmhouse belonged administratively to Berriatua, it
was ecclesiastically part of Ondarroa, and he was baptized there. He is the
eldest of four siblings. One brother lives in Ondarroa, another, Patxi, lives
in Reno with his wife Begoña, and the youngest still lives in Berriatua. Both of his parents were
from Berriatua. His mother belonged to the Laka family. His maternal
grandfather was a stonemason who worked on projects for Bilbao City Hall. His
mother's family included eleven brothers and sisters, the youngest of whom
died only a few years ago at the age of ninety-eight. His maternal
grandfather had moved with his family from Markina to the Aitzola farmhouse
in Aztarrika. Joxe's father died at the age of sixty-eight, while his mother
lived to be ninety-one. His maternal grandmother, Andresa Uriarte Bereikua,
reached the age of one hundred. He attended school until
he was fourteen years old. Afterwards, he worked on the family farm until he
was seventeen. He then found employment at the garage of the La Esperanza bus
company in Ondarroa. On the day he turned eighteen, he obtained his
commercial driver's license ("second-class") and began driving GMC
trucks. One of his uncles, José
María Plaza, owned the Bar Central in Berriatua. Together with José Manuel
Arriola, the town secretary, his uncle also operated a sawmill. Joxe began
working there, transporting timber by truck until he left for military
service, a little more than two years later. His uncle provided him
with an official letter to present to the authorities whenever necessary. On
one occasion, while transporting an ash tree from the Larruskain district
toward Zarautz and Zumaia to be used as the keel of a ship, the police
stopped him. Joxe showed them the document, and after examining it they
allowed him to continue, telling him, "You may proceed, but drive
carefully." Looking back, he believes God was watching over him at that
moment. Although young men from
farming families were generally assigned to the army, Joxe completed his
military service in the Spanish Navy. He spent two years there. Initially, he
was sent to the naval training barracks in Ferrol. After taking the military
oath, a man from the cruiser Canarias came looking for him. During the
interview, Joxe explains that the Crucero Baleares had preceded the Canarias,
but had been sunk during the Spanish Civil War, and that one of his uncles
had died aboard that ship. The man took Joxe to meet
the commander of the Canarias. Following an interview, he was accepted
and spent the next eighteen months assigned to the commander's service. Every
morning he went to the commander's residence on Calle del Sol in Ferrol,
drove him to the cruiser, and carried out whatever tasks he was assigned.
Whenever there was no work to do, he simply waited or kept himself occupied
with small jobs. Joxe vividly recalls an
episode from those years involving the Portuguese passenger liner Santa
Maria, which had been hijacked in 1961. According to his recollection,
General Franco ordered several naval vessels to locate the ship and, if
possible, recover it. Two warning shells were fired at the bridge, leaving
the vessel unable to maneuver. The cruiser Canarias, on which Joxe was
serving, received orders to assist in the operation, but by the time they
arrived the situation had already been brought under control by other naval
forces, and their mission was cancelled. Instead, the Canarias
was ordered south toward Africa. Their destination was Spanish Guinea, as
Equatorial Guinea was then known. It was there, Joxe recalls, that he saw
Black Africans for the first time in his life. After visiting another African
island, the ship eventually returned to Ferrol. After completing his
military service, Joxe returned to the Basque Country. While stationed in
Ferrol he had met an acquaintance from Ondarroa named Paco, who owned a
warehouse in Bilbao distributing potatoes to various businesses. Paco had
encouraged him not to worry about finding work after the military and invited
him to join his company. Joxe still speaks with great gratitude about that
offer and remembers thanking him many times. Soon afterward he obtained
his first-class commercial driver's license and began working for
Construcciones Amaña in Eibar, where one of the contractors, José María Laka,
was his uncle. He remained there until 1966, when he emigrated to the United
States. During his time in Eibar,
two of his close friends were members of ETA. One day they were all
arrested—including Joxe—and taken to a police barracks for questioning. They
were released the following day. Later he learned that one of those friends
had been killed by the police. That experience convinced him that the safest
option was to leave. The idea of emigrating to America was born at that time;
he felt that things could hardly be worse elsewhere. By then he was already
known for his remarkable physical strength, regularly lifting massive cubic
stones weighing up to twelve arrobas. Through stone lifting he became close
friends with the famous Basque boxer José Ramón Ibar, better known as Urtain.
Before turning to professional boxing, Urtain had also been a stone lifter,
and the two men developed a friendship through their shared passion for feats
of strength. Joxe also recalls
Gallastegi, a veteran stone lifter living in Eibar who, at fifty-three years
of age, was still capable of lifting an eleven-and-a-half-arroba cubic stone.
Joxe even served as one of his trainers. A well-known challenge was
organized at Arrate between Gallastegi and Urtain. Gallastegi would attempt a
thirteen-arroba stone, while Urtain was expected to lift a stone eighteen
kilograms heavier. During the training sessions, Joxe himself was capable of
lifting an eleven-arroba cubic stone. Looking back, he believes that, had he
wanted to compete seriously, he could easily have become a successful stone
lifter. Because of his slender build, few people imagined he possessed such
extraordinary strength. Apart from the exhibition at Arrate, however, he
never competed publicly. Returning to the story of his
emigration, Joxe explains that a friend from Berriatua, Ramón Celaya, was
then working near Willows, in northern California. Upon learning that Joxe
wished to come to America, Celaya sent him a letter explaining where he
should go. The day after arriving in
the United States, Joxe was invited to breakfast. The foreman, Goihenetche—a
French Basque, as Joxe describes him—was present. While they were eating, the
ranch owner, Colly French, joined them. He was eighty-two years old and
ranked among the wealthiest ranchers in California. Joxe remarks from memory
that California is only about half a million acres smaller than Spain,
mentioning the comparison simply to illustrate that Spain is not much larger. Joxe arrived in the United
States on September 14, 1966. He had just turned twenty-six the previous
month. At that time, his home neighborhood of Aztarrika consisted of about
forty houses located roughly four kilometres from Ondarroa on the road to
Lekeitio. He worked on the Chico
ranch from 1966 until 1983, where approximately 22,000 sheep were raised.
(2nd part) (Part 2) Joxe begins by showing us
a series of photographs taken near Chico, California, mostly during the
1980s. Among them is a picture of Miguel Romo, a Mexican employee who worked
on the same ranch and for whom Joxe still has great affection and respect. He then points to a
photograph of one of the flocks he managed and asks us to estimate how many
sheep appear in the image. We guess around one thousand. Smiling, he replies
that there were actually about three thousand five hundred. It was the flock
under his care, photographed the day before the lambs were separated from
their mothers and loaded onto trucks for sale. The picture was probably taken
around 1976. He also shows us photographs of the trucks used on the ranch. Looking back, he feels
that his arrival in America had been relatively easy because he already had a
guaranteed job waiting for him in California. From there, however, the
conversation shifts unexpectedly to the present. Joxe expresses concern about
current immigration policies in the United States. In his opinion, the
country's borders have become too open, allowing too many people to enter
without sufficient controls. He believes that some of those arriving intend
to harm the country rather than simply seek honest work. Had immigration been
limited to people trying to earn a living, he says, he would have had no
objection. Speaking quite graphically, he remarks that if someone had told
him ten years earlier that America's borders would one day be so open, he
would never have believed it. He is openly critical of the current political
situation, describing it as "unthinkable." Returning to his own
story, Joxe recalls that he travelled to America alone, although not long
afterwards another young man from his neighborhood, Manuel Loza, followed
him. Manuel was two years older than Joxe and has since passed away after
suffering a heart attack while hunting wild goats. Joxe's flight landed first
in San Francisco before continuing to Sacramento, where Goihenetche, the
French Basque foreman from the ranch, came to meet him. He explains that,
after spending time with French Basques, he eventually learned to understand
their dialect perfectly and was able to converse with them naturally in Basque. His first impression of
America was one of amazement. Whenever he telephoned home, he became
emotional and sometimes cried, reassuring his family that they should not
worry because he was living in a wonderful country. He remembers San
Francisco as an extraordinarily clean city. "You could have eaten off
the streets," he says. Today, however, he no longer wishes to visit
because, in his opinion, the city has deteriorated considerably. Among the Basque families
who welcomed him were Louis Elu and his relatives, who owned a hotel and
restaurant on Broadway in San Francisco. Joxe visited them frequently and
still remembers them with great affection. Speaking about today's America, he
again becomes emotional, lamenting what he sees as profound political and
social changes and the spread of ideas that he describes as communist. The owner of the ranch
where Joxe first worked was Colly French. There were only a handful of
employees. One was Irish, while the others included Basques from Gernika,
Forua, and Bolíbar. At that time Colly French refused to hire Mexican
workers. On his second day at the
ranch, the owner simply motioned for him to follow with his index finger.
Joxe knew no English whatsoever, yet he understood that he should go with
him. French assigned him to work in one of the potreros, or fenced
grazing areas, where his main responsibility was moving sheep from one
pasture to another. The ranch covered
approximately 30,000 acres and was divided into numerous grazing sections.
Whenever the grass in one section had been consumed, the flock was moved to
another. Once the lambs were weaned, they were loaded onto trucks and sold,
while the ewes remained behind, bleating loudly after being separated from
their young. Joxe frequently
accompanied the owner in his pickup truck. French always drove, while Joxe
opened and closed the ranch gates as they crossed from one section to
another. One of their regular tasks was distributing salt to the sheep, which
required collecting heavy sacks from a warehouse. One day Colly French asked
him to load three sacks of salt, each weighing about one hundred pounds
(roughly forty-five kilograms). Without thinking, Joxe picked up all three at
once—one under each arm and the third resting on his shoulder—and threw them
into the back of the pickup in a single movement. The astonished owner
exclaimed, "No, no, no! I wanted
three!" Joxe immediately replied, "You've got three
there!" French simply stood
staring at him. He later told everyone he knew about the extraordinary feat,
repeatedly describing how "Joe" had carried "three bags!"
at once while flexing his arm to imitate Joxe's enormous strength. According
to Joxe, the old rancher became genuinely fond of him from that day onward. He recalls that Colly
French died in hospital toward the end of March 1968. The following day, Joxe
learned that former U.S. President Dwight D. Eisenhower had also died. Given the affection French
had always shown him, Joxe sometimes wondered whether the rancher might have
intended to leave him something in his will. Instead, French died
unexpectedly, before anything of the sort could happen. Besides owning the
ranch, he also owned the Colly French National Bank. French was a Baptist, and
Joxe occasionally accompanied him to church. He remembers both Colly and his
wife as exceptionally kind and generous people. He laughs while recalling
one of French's peculiar habits. Whenever he bought Levi's jeans, he refused
to shorten the legs, even though they were much too long for him. Instead, he
simply folded the excess fabric inside the trousers and continued wearing
them until they were completely worn out. When Joxe first arrived in
America, he needed to purchase clothes and other necessities. For that
purpose, the local bank—also owned by French—made about fifteen thousand
dollars available for new employees' initial expenses. After French's death, the
ranch was leased by Craick Owens, a cattle rancher. Joxe continued working
there. He remembers Owens as a remarkably good man and an imposing physical
figure, standing approximately six feet three inches tall and weighing around
350 pounds (about 159 kilograms). Owens eventually died as
well, and Joxe believes the ranch later passed into the hands of the bank,
although he never learned exactly what became of it. Years later he returned
to visit the property two or three times and found it almost unrecognizable.
The fences had collapsed, the horse facilities had disappeared, and the ranch
itself seemed abandoned. Looking back, he says sadly, "Today you can
hardly recognize the place." Eventually he accepted
another position near Chico, California, where Jimmy Burres owned a ranch
consisting mainly of irrigated land used to grow alfalfa and other forage
crops. The ranch had around five thousand sheep. Having previously worked
with more than twenty thousand animals, Joxe considered this operation
comparatively easy. He remained there for about three years. After leaving that ranch,
his brother Patxi, who by then was living in Reno, encouraged him to move to
Nevada, assuring him that he would easily find work. Patxi was right. Around
1986, Joxe began working in the construction industry. Within less than a year,
his supervisors promoted him to train newly hired workers. They repeatedly
told him, "You can do it!" Looking back, he says that at the time
he was in excellent physical condition. Even on construction sites, he
occasionally impressed his co-workers with demonstrations of his remarkable
strength. Patxi, he recalls, had
emigrated to America around 1969. Their youngest brother, Félix, also lived
in the United States for approximately four years after arriving at the age
of seventeen, although he eventually returned permanently to the Basque
Country. Like Joxe and Patxi, Félix was exceptionally strong. Joxe also remembers his
friend Joxe Maguregi, who spent many years in America before eventually
returning to the Basque Country, where he now lives in a nursing home in
Ondarroa. Together they once travelled to Argentina to attend a soccer
championship. Another memorable episode
took place while Joxe was still working with sheep in California. He was
invited to visit a ranch in Virginia that was experimenting with breeding new
sheep varieties to increase productivity. After spending nine days observing
the operation, he concluded that it had no future because it was poorly
organized. He returned to California convinced the project would fail, and he
never heard anything further about it. The California ranch where
he worked also hired helicopters to control the coyote population. Equipped
with a rifle, Joxe joined these operations and recalls shooting many coyotes
from the helicopter. During his early years in
America, he returned to the Basque Country approximately every three years.
Communication with his family depended on letters and occasional telephone
calls. Today, by contrast, he speaks with relatives almost every week. Because he spent so much
time among French Basques, he became thoroughly familiar with their dialect.
He believes this ability was helped by the fact that, even as a young man in
Bizkaia, he enjoyed speaking with people from Gipuzkoa and had always been
curious about the different varieties of the Basque language. He also remembers Agustin
Garde and Telesforo Garde, whom he met while working near Willows. When he entered the
construction industry, he first worked for Granite Construction Company
before joining another firm specializing in underground infrastructure,
including sewer systems, electrical installations, and water pipelines. He
remembers both the owner of that second company and his wife with great
affection, noting that both passed away not long afterwards. Among his fellow
construction workers were several young Basques, including Joxe Arriaga, Juan
from Munitibar, José Eguen, and others. (Part 3) Joxe met his wife, Rosario
Muniosguren, in Reno at the home of his brother Patxi. Rosario's father,
Muniosguren, had been a well-known cesta punta player. Joxe remembers
him as an exceptionally good man. After retiring from professional jai alai,
he worked as a line judge in Basque pelota frontons. He had been born in
Soraluze (Placencia de las Armas) and came to Reno in 1978 with his
daughters. Joxe eventually married one of them, Rosario. He was fifty-five
years old when they married, while she was around thirty-eight or
thirty-nine. He believes the wedding took place in 1995. During our
interview, Rosario remarked that they would soon celebrate twenty-nine years
of marriage, prompting Joxe to reflect on how quickly time had passed. They were married in a
civil ceremony at the MGM Casino—today the Grand Sierra Resort—and later
celebrated a religious wedding in church. The conversation then
turns to his father's experience during the bombing of Gernika. Joxe recounts
the story in Spanish because one of his relatives present during the
interview does not speak Basque. His father happened to be hospitalized in
Gernika when a nurse advised him to leave the town immediately if he was
physically able. A truck transporting cattle toward Lekeitio stopped nearby.
Although several passengers were already seated in the cab, the driver
invited him to climb into the back. Having recently undergone surgery on one
leg, he was unable to climb aboard by himself. A young farm woman working
nearby saw his difficulty, walked over, lifted him from behind, and pushed
him into the truck. Thanks to her help, he reached Lekeitio safely before
making his way home by taxi. According to Joxe, all of
this happened on the very day of the bombing. He recalls the atmosphere of
foreboding, saying that "something was going to happen." During the
conversation, Josu Aldekoaotalora points out that the bombing of Durango had
taken place about a week earlier and that approximately three hundred people
were killed there. Joxe also remembers Luis
Elu, a former cesta punta player who owned a hotel and restaurant on
Broadway in San Francisco. Although Elu had grown up in Markina, Joxe became
much better acquainted with him after emigrating to America. Their friendship
was strongest during the second half of the 1970s. Today, Elu lives in
Florida. His memories soon return
to Urtain, the legendary Basque heavyweight boxer with whom he had become
friends before emigrating. Their friendship had begun through Basque stone
lifting, long before Urtain entered professional boxing. Joxe weighed
slightly less than Urtain—about eighty-eight kilograms compared to Urtain's
ninety-eight—but he recalls Urtain telling him that, pound for pound, he had
never met anyone stronger than Joxe. He remembers Urtain visiting
the United States around 1972 or 1973 with his manager because he hoped to
meet the Spanish boxer Pedro Carrasco, with whom he had previously lived in
Madrid. Joxe accompanied them to Los Angeles to watch one of Carrasco's
championship bouts. During the match, the mayor of Los Angeles and his wife
happened to be seated beside Joxe. Although Urtain had hoped to fight
professionally in the United States, the opportunity never materialized. Joxe
believes that Joe Frazier, then one of the dominant figures in American
heavyweight boxing, had no interest in facing him. One memory remains
especially vivid. Before an important bout at Bilbao's Vista Alegre arena,
Urtain told him in Basque: "When I win, you have
to carry me out of the bullring on your shoulders." Joxe becomes visibly
emotional whenever he speaks about his friend. In his opinion, Urtain was a
fundamentally good man who never intentionally harmed anyone. He believes,
however, that he surrounded himself with questionable people and tended to
accept almost every proposal placed before him. Joxe also knew Urtain's
father, who died at only forty-six years of age and was himself an
extraordinarily powerful stone lifter capable of raising a sixteen-arroba
stone. He also remembers Urtain's sister Elvira, whom he recalls as a
remarkably attractive young woman who later married an aizkolari
(woodchopper), although he no longer remembers his name. Through Urtain he also
came to know Pedro Carrasco. Joxe believes that organized crime exerted
considerable influence over the world of professional boxing during those
years. He admits that much of what was discussed remained difficult for him
to understand because the boxers often spoke indirectly about "mafia
business." Nevertheless, he believes that both Urtain and Carrasco
managed to avoid becoming deeply involved in those circles. At the height of
his career, Carrasco could reportedly earn as much as three hundred thousand
dollars for a single successful fight. Joxe remembers him as an elegant,
refined man despite competing in the lightweight division. Reflecting on his years in
construction, Joxe is uncertain whether he worked in the industry for two or
three decades before retiring. By our calculations, he retired around 2001,
at approximately sixty-one or sixty-two years of age. Even before retiring, a
friend encouraged him to begin competing in arm wrestling. He entered the
over-fifty category and went on to participate in numerous tournaments
throughout the United States and Europe. One of his fondest memories is
travelling to Manchester, England, when he was sixty-six years old. Although
all of his opponents were younger than he was, they still belonged to the
same age category. A representative of the American federation personally
invited him to compete and covered all of his travel expenses. He continued
competing for another six years, mainly in tournaments along the West Coast
of the United States. Joxe also recalls an
uncle, Juan Laka, who settled in Ontario, Oregon, after emigrating as a
teenager. When Joxe and one of his brothers visited him, the old man was
already ninety-three years old. Among the members of his
extended family, Joxe speaks with particular admiration of his cousin Kepa
Bilbao Laka, whom he considers the most remarkable person ever to come from
Berriatua. At the age of eighteen, Kepa travelled to Chile to begin his
religious formation. He was first a Franciscan friar and later became a
diocesan priest after receiving permission to devote himself more freely to
charitable work. In Chile he founded homes
for the elderly, schools, and numerous social assistance projects. Joxe says,
half jokingly, that he committed "heresies" because he constantly
sought unconventional ways of helping those most in need. He remembers one Basque
contractor who had suffered financial ruin in Chile. Kepa helped him recover,
and years later, out of gratitude, the contractor donated three apartment
buildings to support Kepa's charitable work. When Kepa was close to
death, he invited members of the family to Chile at his own expense. Joxe
remembers that although his cousin was dying, he smiled warmly at each
relative as they entered his room. Speaking with deep emotion, Joxe describes
Kepa as a saint. He and Rosario travelled to Chile twice to visit him.
Reflecting on those encounters, Joxe quietly says: "When you spoke with
him, you felt that God was present." Shortly after his
marriage, Joxe retired from construction. Retirement allowed him to travel
extensively with his wife and friends. Together they visited Chile twice,
Argentina, England, Ireland, Italy, Serbia, the Holy Land, Israel, Jordan,
Egypt, and many other places. Rosario had been widowed
before their marriage and had two children from her first husband, who had
died at the age of forty-six. Whenever they return to
the Basque Country—usually every two years—they enjoy visiting Bilbao,
especially the area around the Guggenheim Museum, as well as Lekeitio,
Markina, and Bolíbar. The family's farmhouse in Aztarrika has since been sold
to a local butcher. Joxe also shows us
photographs of another house he once owned in Reno. He is especially proud of
the roof, which he built entirely by himself after retiring, without the help
of any workers. He jokes that "no one even had to hand me the
hammer." The house stood near San Rafael Park and measured approximately
1,700 square feet. Even in his eighties he
continued carrying out repairs himself. On August 18, 2022, while replacing
part of the roof on his current home during a rainstorm accompanied by
thunder, he briefly thought to himself, "Go back." Ignoring the
warning, he continued climbing and soon fell from a considerable height. He landed flat on his back
with his arms outstretched, "like Jesus Christ on the cross," as he
describes it. He suffered a serious head injury that caused a brain
hemorrhage and fractured his coccyx. He drifted in and out of consciousness
while lying in a pool of blood. His wife later explained that the doctors
were astonished he had survived such a fall and believed he was unlikely to recover. He spent a week in
intensive care fighting for his life, followed by another month gradually
recovering basic mobility. During those first weeks, he says, his mind often
wandered and he remained confused. The doctors could scarcely believe his
progress. Joxe himself was convinced
that he was about to die. As he recalls those days, he becomes visibly
emotional. He attributes his survival to the prayer chain organized by his
parish, Immaculate Conception Parish. God, he believes, granted him another
opportunity to continue living. Throughout his
hospitalization he repeatedly asked Rosario not to argue with the doctors. In
the end, he says, they all became friends. Near the end of our
conversation he recalls another fall that had occurred only a few weeks
earlier. While walking through the neighborhood, he stumbled and struck his
head. A woman immediately came to help him and introduced herself by saying,
"Don't worry. I'm a nurse." Moments later she quietly
added that she herself had suffered a miscarriage earlier that very morning. Joxe is deeply moved by
the memory. Despite her own grief, the woman stayed with him, took him for
medical treatment, where he received several stitches, drove him home, and
made sure he was properly cared for. Later, Rosario asked her
whether there was anything they could do in return. The nurse simply replied, "Pray."
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Estibaliz AmorrortuEstibaliz Amorrortu Gomez 1969an jaio zen Bilbon. Euskal Filologiako lizentziatura egin zuen Deustuko unibertsitatean. Esti ez zegoen guztiz pozik orduko Deustuko unibertsitateko sistemarekin, beste zerbait ezagutu nahi zuen eta buruan kanpora joatea zuen. 3. Mailan zegoela Eusko Jaurlaritza luzatzen zuen beka bat zegoen Renoko unibertsitatera joateko baina ez zioten eman. 5.mailan zegoenean berriro eskatu zuen eta orduan eman zioten, euskara eskolak ematen laguntzeko Renoko Unibertsitatean. Beste neska euskaldun batekin joan zen, Ataungo kazetaria zen hura. Bertan zegoela erabaki zuen masterra egin nahi zuela Center for Basque Studies-en. Linda White doktorego tesia egiten zegoen eta eszedentzia eskatu zuen, horrela Estibaliz kontratatu zuen bere ordezko moduan. Beraz, Eusko Jaurlaritzaren beka bukatuta, beste urte bitan lanean egon zen bertan eskolak ematen eta masterra egiten era berean. Masterra bukatzean, erabaki zuen doktoretza egin nahi zuela soziolinguistika arloan eta Renon aukera gutxi zegoela konturatu zen. Unibertsitate ezberdinak aztertu eta, azkenerako, Los Angelesera joan zen. Eusko Jaurlaritzan doktoretza egiteko beka eskatu zuen eta hori ere eman zioten, horrekin ordaindu zuen doktoretza beraz. Horrela egon zen beste lau urtez eta bosgarren urtean beka berri batekin bukatu zuen doktoretzaren azken pausuak ematen. Uda batean Elkon ere egon zen bertako euskararen azterketatxo bat egiten. Urtebeterako planarekin joan zen, beraz, eta zortzi urtez luzatu zen bere egonaldia Ameriketako Estatu Batuetan. 1992an joan eta 2000.urtean bueltatu zen. Zortzi urte horietan urtero behin edo birritan bueltatzen zen bere jaioterrira bisitatxoak egitera. Renon eta Los Angelesen bizimodua oso ezberdina dela dio. Renon giroa oso babestua da eta komunitate euskalduna dago bertan; horrek erraztu egin zion bertako egonaldia. Los Angeles, ostera, hiri gogorra da, latza, tentsio sozial handikoa, kontuz ibiltzeko lekua. Bere esperientziek batean eta bestean ez daukate zerikusirik. Berarentzat ikasketa arloan aldaketa handiena izan zen han ez zirela klase magistralak egiten, askoz parte-hartzaileagoa zen. Unibertsitatea Estirentzat “aire freskoa” izan zela dio eta han Deustun aurkitu ez zituen erraztasunak zituela. Renon dantza talde bat zegoen, dantza talde serioa (Lisa Korkostegi Urbeltzen dizipulua zen zuzendaria bere gizonarekin) “Zenbat gara dantza taldea”. Esti bertan ibili zen. Euskal komunitatearekin harremana zuen, batez ere akademia mundukoekin. Argi zeukan doktoretza egin eta jaioterrira bueltatuko zela. Ikasleak doktoregoa bukatu eta lan bila hasten ziren, Esti ez zen ahalegindu ere, buruan argi zeukan Euskal Herrira bueltatuko zela, nahiz eta lan baldintzak han hobeak izan. Bueltatzean kontrastea aurkitu zuen Unibertsitateko metodologian, baina argi dauka ordutik asko aldatu dela Deustuko Unibertsitatea. Ameriketara joan izan ez balitz mundua beste modu batera ikusiko lukeela dio eta ez du uste emakume izateagatik zailtasun gehiago izan dituenik, emakumeen presentzia bere sasoian nabaria zela gogoratzen du.
| Estibaliz AmorrortuEstibaliz Amorrortu Gómez was born in Bilbao in 1969. She earned a degree in Basque Philology from the University of Deusto. During her undergraduate studies, however, she was not entirely satisfied with the university's academic approach. She wanted to experience a different educational environment and had already set her sights on studying abroad. While in her third year, she applied for a scholarship offered by the Basque Government to study at the University of Nevada, Reno, but her application was unsuccessful. She applied again during her fifth year and was awarded the scholarship, which enabled her to travel to Reno to assist with teaching Basque language courses at the university. She traveled to Reno together with another young Basque woman, a journalist from Ataun. While there, Estibaliz decided that she wanted to pursue a master's degree at the Center for Basque Studies. At the time, Linda White was working on her doctoral dissertation and took a leave of absence, allowing Estibaliz to be hired as her replacement. Consequently, after her Basque Government scholarship ended, she remained at the university for two additional years, teaching Basque while simultaneously completing her master's degree. After finishing her master's, she decided to pursue a doctorate in sociolinguistics. She soon realized that Reno offered only limited opportunities in that field. After exploring several universities, she eventually chose to continue her studies in Los Angeles. She successfully applied for another Basque Government scholarship to fund her doctoral studies, which covered the cost of her Ph.D. She remained there for four years, and during a fifth year, supported by an additional fellowship, completed the final stages of her dissertation. During one summer, she also spent time in Elko carrying out a small-scale study of the local variety of Basque spoken there. What had originally been planned as a one-year stay eventually became an eight-year experience in the United States. She arrived in 1992 and returned to the Basque Country in 2000. Throughout those eight years, she returned home once or twice each year to visit family and friends. According to Estibaliz, life in Reno and Los Angeles could not have been more different. Reno offered a close-knit environment with a well-established Basque community, making it easy to feel supported and integrated. Los Angeles, by contrast, was a much harsher city, characterized by significant social tensions and requiring far greater caution in everyday life. As she explains, her experiences in the two places were completely different. From an academic perspective, the greatest difference she encountered was the teaching methodology. Unlike the lecture-based instruction she had experienced in the Basque Country, classes in the United States were far more participatory and interactive. She describes her years at the university as "a breath of fresh air," offering academic opportunities and intellectual freedom that she had not found at the University of Deusto. While living in Reno, she joined Zenbat Gara Dantza Taldea, a well-established Basque dance group directed by a disciple of Lisa Korkostegi Urbeltz together with her husband. She also maintained close ties with the local Basque community, particularly with people connected to the academic world. From the very beginning, she was determined to return to the Basque Country after completing her doctorate. While many of her fellow doctoral students remained in the United States to look for academic positions, she never seriously considered staying. Although professional opportunities and working conditions may have been better in the United States, she had always intended to return home. Upon her return, she noticed a marked contrast in university teaching methods, although she believes that the University of Deusto has changed considerably since then. Looking back, Estibaliz believes that had she not lived in the United States, she would view the world very differently. She does not feel that being a woman created additional obstacles during her academic career, recalling that women already had a strong presence in the university environment during those years.
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Ana
Mari Arbillaga stood with her back to us, arms raised, fingers snapping.
During her workday, she cooked at the Nevada Dinner House, one of the three
Basque restaurants in Elko, and then on weekends she turned into the patron
saint of Elko’s Basque heritage —dance instructor, seamstress,
Basque-to-English translator, and letter writer. If the Basque had a
matriarch in Elko, Ana Mari qualified. She talked like Dad, conveying more
meaning with inflection, volume, and hand gestures than with words. (Juaristi
2011:90)
Arbillaga, jakina, bere senarra defuntuaren abizena zen. Amak Alberdi zuen abizena. Agarre baserrian jaio zen, Gautegiz-Arteaga herrian, 1935eko
martxoaren 17an. (Aurrerago “nineteen thirty five” esaten du berak). Bere osaba abadea izan zen, eta Frankoren gaian abade hura Bilbon
zegoen eta bera txikia zela amarekin batera Bilbora joan zen bizitzera. Gerra
garaian “bombardeoak” egon ziren eta bonba bat Agarre ondoko baserrian jausi
zen. Gero abioiak Bilbon ere bota zituzten
eta bonba bat euren etxetik gertu jausi zen eta fatxada “arrakalatu” egin
zen. Bilbotik Natxitura joan ziren gero. Bere neba gazteena Natxituan jaioa
izan zen. Gero ez daki zergatik atzera ere joan ziren Arteagara.
Errentatutako baserri batean bizi izan ziren. Baserri horren “usabak” New
Yorken bizi ziren eta errentatu egiten zuten: noizean behin “kasu” egiten
zioten baserriari. Berak 18 urte eukazala aita hil zen, eta ama, bi neba eta bera
geratu ziren. Eskolan 14 urte bete arte egon zen, gero josten ikasten joan
zen. Bere lehengusina Bilbon egon zen beharrean eta harek esan zion Jose
Felix Lequerica[1]
(Espainiako enbajadorea edo) etxeko langileen beharrean zegoela, eta haren
etxean egin zuen lan. Hiru hilabete Washingtonen, eta beste hiru hilabete Espainian
(txandaka edo), horrela ibiltzen ei zen. Ez zeukan umerik. Hiru neska zeuden
haren etxean lanean: bata zen “kozinerie”, sukaldaria, bestea zen “ama de
llaves”, eta Ana Mari. Beste txofer bi ere bazeuzkan. Hiru hilabete Bilbon
(Las Arenas-en, zehazki, Areetan, uda partean), beste hiru hilabete Madrilen.
Bi urte eta erdi egin zuen lan berarentzat. Halako batean bere izeko, bere “tía” (bere aitaren arrea,
Ameriketan bizi omen zen) etorri zen Euskal Herrira bisitan, familia
ikusten-eta. Egun haietan ama hil zitzaion eta izekok proposatu zion
Ameriketara joatea. Lequericak esan omen zion interesa bazeukan Ameriketara
joateko berak “arreglatuko” zizkiola paperak-eta, joan zedin. Pasaporteko
“visa” eta kontu guztiak egun bitan egin zizkion eta horrela etorri zen bere
“tíarekin” Ameriketara, Santa Rosara, Kaliforniara (“nineteen sixty” esaten
du). Berak esaten du San Franciscotik “forty miles-era”[2]
dagoela. San Francisco hiri handia ikusi eta, bai, harritu zen. Urtebete eman
zuen han, tiari laguntzen, bere lehengusinarekin batera. Gero San Franciscora
joan zen: han zegoen matrimonio bat (gizona nafarra eta emaztea bizkaitarra).
Haien etxean aritu zen lanean josten. 25 urte zituen orduan. Urtebetegarrenean Elkora etorri zen, Arostegui familiarengana,
“emakumearentzako[3]”
gauzak josten ibili zen. Nineteen sisty
one urtean izan zen. Matrimonio hura San Franciscotik pasatu zen eta
proposatu zioten Elkora etortzeko. Besterik gabe Ana Marik baietz, badoala
esan eta Elkora etorri zen. Nevadako desertua ikusi eta triste iruditu
zitzaion. Lauzurikak Nevada hotela zeukaten eta saldu ei zuen eta alabaren
izenean jarri. Alaba hura bilakatu zen koinata (nebaren “andrea”). Galdetu
zioten ea nahi zuen eurekin lan egiteko, eta “ok” esan zien Ana Marik,
haiekin geratu zen kozinan laguntzen. Hura izango zen ninetee sixty one.
Borregeroak etortzen zirenean han goian “camarak” edo kuartoak egoten ziren
eta han geratzen ziren (Nevada hotel-i buruz ari gara), “between 12 or 15
men”, hori zen zeukaten “kapazitatea”. Haientzako janariak prestatu eta
kanpoko jendearentzat ere bai. Emakume hark ez zekien asko kozinan eta berak
ere ez asko (barre egiten du). “Horregaz emakumeagaz” hogeita bi urte egon
zen guztira (1983ra arte?). Gero restaurantea italiano batzuei saldu zien.
Gizona italianoa zen eta enbra[4]
frantsez-euskalduna. Haiekin (nagusi edo ugazaba berri haiekin,
senar-emazteak ei ziren) beste hogei urte egon zen lanean. Arbillaga
gizonaren arreba zen “euskaldun-frantsez” emakume hura. 1961an ezkondu zen,
bere gizona Osses (Orzaitze) herrikoa zen, José Manuel Arbillaga: sheep
camp-ean egiten zuen lan, ardiekin, jakina. Ana Mari 26 urterekin ezkodu eta
gizonak 52 urte zituen ezkondu zelarik. Antza denez, senarraren benetako
abiziena Arribillaga ei zen, baina Argentinan bizi izan zen eta abizena ez
zuten ondo “eskribidu”. 1963an “Espainara” joan zen, senarra eta seme batekin. Sasoi
hartan koinatak, umea euki ostean, itzuli egin behar izan zuen klinikara
(hamar egunetara) eta “apendizia” apurtuta zeukala antzeman zuten (hori
Euskal Herrian gertatu omen zen). Senarrak eta biok erabaki zuten han
geratzea, Euskal Herrian harik eta[5]
koinata ondo topatu arte. Bitartean han (EHan) jaio zen euren bigarren semea.
Han apartamentu bat erosi eta umea (loba, koinataren semea) hartu zuten
zaintzeko (koinata sendatzen zen bitartean). Umea (loba) hazi egin zuten
urtebetez. Gero etorri ziren atzera Elkora. Lehenengoz gizona (Joxe A.) eta
gero bera, “nineteen sixty seven” urtean izan zen.
Ramon Zugazaga aipatzen du eta bere “Biltoki” delako errestaurantea.
1967an Biltoki delakoan hasi zen lanean, seventy
nine-n hasi zen eta erretiratu arte: mahaiak altzatu, mahaiak imini,
neskatxari ordezkapenak egiten. Restaurante saldu zuenean erabaki zuen ez
gehiago jarraitzea (nagusi berriekin). 1969an bertan hasi zen umeei “jantzak”
erakusten. Ehun ume eukitzeraino heldu zen. Lehenengo ikaslean Anita Franzoi
(Anakabe) eta belaunaldi hartakoak izan ziren. Liz Moiola (Elkon jaiotakoa),
Leon Bilbaoren andrea ere izan zen, eta hiru-lau andra izan ziren “jantza”
irakasleak hasiera hartan. Hemezortzi urtez jarraian egon zen horretaz
arduratzen, bera izan zen “jarraitu” zuen bakarra. Bere tio abadearengandik (Guillermo
Alberdi) ikasi zuen dantzan. Harek dantzak, pelotan… “harek eukiban “trobela”[6]
Frankogaz…” (barre egiten du). Arteagan zegoen abade, baina Arteagako
parrokoa “frankisti” zen, “ez zan arreglaten harekin”: gerra hasi zenean
Bilbora alde egin zuen eskapo, (eskuaz eta atzamarraz tiroa botateko keinua
dagi) beste batzuk hil zuten moduan bera ere hil egin zezaketelakoan. Bilbon bizi izandako bi urteak gogoratuz, aipatzen du bere semea,
Bilbon jaio zelako, etxean daukana: Fermín deitzen da eta duela urte bi
auto-istripu izan zuen eta “brain damage” izan duela dio, memora joan
“dakon”; izan ere, istripua izan eta bera bakarrik egon zen ia 24 orduz
norbait laguntzera etorri arte eta odol-isuria izan zuen burmuinean. Tiorekin ikasi zuen dantzan, atzera “parata”, “halantxik”.
Guillermo osaba Arteagara gutxitan etortzen zen bisitan, eta parrokia ez zuen
zapaltzen. Arteaga eta Kanal artean “ermitta” bat zegoen eta han ematen zuen
bere Meza. 1962an hil zen bilbon. Arteagako abade frankistak, bera elizara
joan zen baten, eskuaren atzamarraz esan zion etortzeko, eta etxera bidali
zuen blusa aldatzeko. Negarrez joan zen etxera, eta ama joan zen gero abade
horrekin hitz egitera. Antza, blusa zuria zen eta lore gorri batzuk, eta orri
berde batzuk brodatuta zeuzkan (ikurrinaren koloreak) eta horregatik bidali
zuen etxera abade hark. Komunioa batzuei eman bai baina beste batzuei ez.
Bilbon josten egondako etxeko gizona ere fusilatu egin ei zuten. Amari
entzuten zizkion errepresioaren gauzak, baina berak ez zituen hilketa eta
indarkeria horiek zuzenean ikusi. “Halantxe hazinikuak, bakixu[7]”.
Eskolan ere egoera gogorrak pasatu zituen: 6 urterekin hasi zen eta ez zekien
gaztelerarik. Baitaioz “Ane Miren” da, baina udaletxean “Ana Maria” zen,
galazota zeudelako euskarazko izenak. Lagun batzuk zituen, ahizpak zirenak:
Ikerne eta Aintzane. Eskolan Visitación eta Gloria deitzen zieten. “Ez gendun
euskera egiten ahal eskolan”[8].
Elizan dotrina euskaraz ikasten zuen, eta bitartean eskolan, dotrina baita
ikasi baina “españolez”. Otoitzak hizkuntza bietan ikasi zituen. Gosea ere
bazeukaten, dena “razonamendua” eta tristea, “bakixu?”. Gizona (Joxe Arbilaga) gaztelaniaz (txikitan, gurasoekin,
Argentinan bizi izan zen), euskaraz eta ingelesez mintzo zen. Seme bietatik zaharrenak egiten du euskaraz
polito, bigarrenak gutxiago. “Espainolez” ere moldatzen dira. Kontzientea da
bere senarraren euskara eta berea “diferenteak” zirela. Umeak hasi zirenean
eskolan, agian euskaraz hitz egin eta eurek gaztelaniaz erantzun, edo
espainolez hitz egin eta eurek ingelesez erantzun egiten zuten. Berak uste du
bere euskara “nahastauta” dagoela, eskolan ere, txikitan derrigortuta egon
zelako gaztelaniaz hitz egitera: “halakoxe euskera dekú”. Amoma ezagutu zuen
eta harek gaztelaniaz berba bat ere ez. Bere gizon difuntua Argentinan jaio eta hamar urterekin itzuli
ziren “Frantziara” (Iparraldera) eta Donibane Garazin fraileekin ikasi zuen.
Gero, anaia bat Nevadan zuela-eta, Ameriketara etorri zen sano gazte. Atzenengoz joan zela Euskal Herrira duela urte bi izan zen
(2019an edo), Zakarias bilobarekin. Tabita da beste biloba bat eta harekin
lehenago joan zen, hiru hilabeterako. Tabitak aprobetxatu zuen Deustun
gaztelania ikastaro bat egiteko. Tabita Ana Marik hazitakoa da: aita gaixorik
egon da istripua izan zuenetik. Semeak 1962an eta 1963an jaiotakoak dira,
edade bat daukate jada. “Zerak”[9]
iminita dauzka, “ez daiten urten kanpora”. “Ez dau urtetan ahal”[10]
(ezin da irten). “Zeozelako” txip edo “I donow”, dauka buruan. “Nik ahal
dodan arte egingo dot, I donow”, horrela esaten du bere semearen zaintzari
buruz. Dantzan eta pelotan ondo egiten zuen, baina orain gabetuta dabil, “oin
ez dau egiten ahal”[11].
“Strock-arekin” euskaldun asko hil berri dira Elko inguruan (urte
batean hiru), “nik eztaitt ze pasetan dan”. Semeak ere euki ei du strock-a
eta ezkerreko alderdian “balantza” egiten du (88 urterekin semearen
osasunaren ardura berak darama). “Cheap” ez da inon. Trailerra, pickupa, eta
etxea badauzka. Ana Marik dio haiek saldu eta ahal den bitartean horrekin
“konpontzeko”. “Social security” ere baduela dio. Berak daukan kristau fedeari buruzko galdera bat ez du ulertu eta
bere joskintza kontuei buruz hasi da berbetan. High school-eko neskendako
arropak josten dituela dino, baina neska haiek unibertsitatean berehala
hasten dira eta arropa horiek “galdu” egiten dira askotan. Elkon ez dagoela
beste jostunik kontzientea da. Lau “grupo” dituela dio. Txikienak, zazpi urte gorakoak, middle
school-ekoak, high school-ekoak… Badira neska batzuk “diferente” eskatzen
dutenak, “bakixu”, “I wanna do this, I wanna do that…”, ez Boisen bezala, han
denak berdin janzten dira.
High school-eko dantzarien jantziak erakusten dizkit.
Berak lana ez du kobratzen, baina materiala (oihalak, eta abar) eurek
ordaintzen dute. Jantzi gehienak Basque Club-en gordetzen dira, baina
erabiliak diren batzuk berak garbitu, “siketu”, plantxau (lisatu) eta bere
etxeko beheko kaurtoan (basement)
berak gordetzen ditu. Neska bakar batek laupabost jantzi desberdin (kolore eta itxura
desberdinetakoak) izan ditzake. Berak erakutsi dizkidanak Tabitarenak dira.
Urte osoan egoten da jantziok egiten. Txikiek ez dute “horrenbeste” eskatzen.
Amantala, paineluak (soinean jartzekoak), txalekoak (zaharrek erabiltzen
dituztenak). Egunean bat egin dezake. Zortzi egin behar baditu zortzi egun
beharko ditu. Penny-n eta Walmart-en erosi izan ditu aurreko urteetan, baina
horrelako lekuetan edo dendetan gero eta gutxiago dago (oihalak eta). Orain,
“computerretik” eskatzen ditu
horreek gauzok. Norbaitek eskatuz gero, “bai, ekarri materixala ta neuk
egingotzudaz” esaten du sarritan. Gehien erabiltzen direnak, “azula” eta
gorria dira. “Urteen urtean” badatoz berriak eta egin behar zaizkie jantziak
eta horretan aritzen da. Tabitak “would you teache me how to do it, so I
can do it?”
esaten dio. Esaten du ez zaiola gehiegi kostatzen orain beste zeregin askorik
ez duelako. Boisen denek daukate “iguala”, “you know what I mean?”, baina
Elkokoek esaten diote “I saw this in Spain, I saw this in France” eta berak
egin behar izaten ditu. Middle group-eraino Basque Club-ek ordaintzen ditu
jantziak, hurrengoek beste batzuenak erabiltzeko. Mallearen andreak egiten
zituen, baina hark kobratu egiten zuen lana. Txikien gona bakoitzari zenbaki,
“numero” bat jartzen dio (papertxo baten idatzita), “klasifikatzeko” eta
jakiteko ume bakoitzari zer eman dion. Txikientzat hamazortzi “joku” egin ei
ditu. Orratzekin galtzerdiak eta umeentzako jertseiak ere egiten ditu. Txikientzako arropatxoak “rafle” egiten ditu (zozketa), 30 dollars a pair, eta horrela. Gonen azpikoak ere egiten ditu. Neskek buruan ipintzeko
painueluak ere egiten ditu. Txalekoak ere bai. Txalekoekin alde batetik kolore bat eta bestetik beste bat:
gorria-berdea, “azula” eta “baltza”; horrela, buelta ematean “beste” txaleko
balitz lez geratzen da. Koloreen konbinazio posibleak erakusten dizkit:
amantala zuria – gona azula; amantala berdea – gona marroia; gona “purple”,
zinta belrtzak
edota zuriak… “Ez dotan lez inon biharrik eitten, I don’t care”, esaten du. Materialean bakarrik, gona bakoitzean
(zip, zintak, oihala…) 25 dollar
bai, behar izaten dira. Gona batzuen muturreko “puntila” hiru dolar izaten da
(materiala bakarrik). Eurek jota, aurresku eta horrelako dantzak egiten zituzten. Orain
“computadorretik” hainbat dantza klase ikusten dituzte gazteek eta haiek nahi
dituzte dantzatu eta horretarako jantziak prestatu. Mutilentzat bakarrik garrikoak egiten ditu, gainontzekoak
(txapelak barne) erosi egiten dituzte. Lobei buruz ari da. Lau ei ditu eta Gernikan bizi dira. Mutiko
bat Lezaman bizi da. Euskal Herrira joaten denean zaharrenaren etxera joaten
da, “besoetakoa” dela-eta. Loba bat, hirugarrena, Mari Pili, “community
college-en” ikasten zegoela izan zuen etxean urte betez. Gero haien alabetako
bat high schoolean egon zen, baita
Elkon. Zaharrena “Ana Mari” ei da eta haren etxean geratzen da, baserri
batean bizi dira, Gernikatik “urtekeran”. Harritu egiten da orain bere lobak
eskolan ingelesa ikasten dutela ikusita eta maila ona daukatela. Oso aldatuta ikusten du Euskal Herria eta bertako jendea, batez
ere. Franko ezagutu ez zutenei berriro erakutsiko lieke, zer den gogorra ikas
dezaten. Orain jada sei-zazpi urtekoek badaukaten telefonoa (smart phone).
Bere garaian telefonorik etxean ez zegoen, eta auzoan bakarra zeukaten
hainbatendako. Gero loba batek bukatu zuenean bere karrera (ingeniaria edo), ez
zeukan “plazarik” eta esan ei zion: “joan horra eta hasi zaitez platerak
garbitzen, harik eta plaza lortu arte!” Baina ez zuen nahi, beheko gauzatzat
hartu zuen, ikasi dutena besterik ez dute egin / ikasi nahi. Bere denboran ez
zegoen horrelakorik (alegia, ahal zena hartu eta lanean hasi). Orain zenbat
eta gehiago izan, hainbat eta gehiago euki gura. Bere denboran ez kotxerik ez
ezer. Bizikleta akaso, baina hori ere guztiek ez zuten. “Franco biziko bazen,
harek erakutsiko zizun zelan bizitzen”, esaten omen dio lobaren bati (esaten
du irribarrez). Gero, bere garaian herrian erdaldunik apenas ez zegoen. Berak
14 urte zituela trenaren bideak egiten galegoak eta andaluzak etorri ziren.
Herrira bi etorri ziren eta bertako neskekin ezkondu. Ordura arte ez zituzten
ezagutzen erdaldunak. Bere neba zaharra karpinteroa da eta Arteagan bizi
ziren urtean bere neba langile “erdaldun” batzuekin egon zen bazkaltzen.
Haietako batek esan zuen bere semeak “euskaldunak” direla eta Ana Mariren
nebak esan zion ezetz, “zure umeak galegoak dira baina Euskal Herrian jaioak”,
eta hor eztabaida sortu zen. Konparatu egiten du egoera hori mexikarrekin eta
“American” delakoekin: hor identitate issue
bat dago. Harritu egiten da Euskal Herrian kalean saltzen ibiltzen diren
baltzak ederto mintzo euskaraz. “Geu be ez gara amerikanuk, baia hementxe
gauz” esaten du irribarrez.
|
Ana Mari Arbillaga (Part 1) Juaristi describes Ana
Mari Arbillaga as follows: Ana Mari Arbillaga stood
with her back to us, arms raised, fingers snapping. During her workday, she
cooked at the Nevada Dinner House, one of the three Basque restaurants in
Elko, and then on weekends she turned into the patron saint of Elko’s Basque
heritage—dance instructor, seamstress, Basque-to-English translator, and
letter writer. If the Basques had a matriarch in Elko, Ana Mari qualified.
She talked like Dad, conveying more meaning with inflection, volume, and hand
gestures than with words. (Juaristi 2011: 90) Arbillaga, she explains,
was the surname of her late husband. Her maiden name was Alberdi. Ana Mari was born at the
Agarre farmhouse in Gautegiz-Arteaga on March 17, 1935. During the interview,
she herself emphasizes the date by saying, "nineteen thirty-five." One of her uncles was a
Catholic priest. During the Spanish Civil War he was living in Bilbao, and
while Ana Mari was still very young, she and her mother moved there to live
with him. During the war, bombings affected both the countryside and the
city. One bomb fell on a farmhouse next to Agarre, and later, in Bilbao,
another exploded close to the house where they were living, cracking the
building's façade. Afterwards the family moved to Natxitua, where her
youngest brother was born. She does not remember exactly why they later
returned to Arteaga. They lived in a rented farmhouse whose owners had
emigrated to New York and leased the property, returning only occasionally to
look after it. When Ana Mari was
eighteen, her father died, leaving her mother, her two brothers, and herself
to carry on alone. She remained in school until the age of fourteen and then
began learning dressmaking. A cousin who was working
in Bilbao told her that José Félix de Lequerica—Spain's ambassador to the
United States at the time—was looking for domestic staff. Ana Mari entered
his household and worked for him for two and a half years. His schedule was divided
between the United States and Spain. He spent three months in Washington,
D.C., followed by three months in Spain, alternating between the two
countries. During the summer he lived in Las Arenas (Getxo), while the rest
of the year he resided in Madrid. Lequerica had no children. His household
employed three women: a cook, a housekeeper, and Ana Mari herself, in
addition to two chauffeurs. A turning point came when
one of her aunts—her father's sister, who lived in the United States—returned
to the Basque Country to visit the family. During that visit Ana Mari's
mother passed away. Her aunt suggested that she accompany her back to
America. Lequerica encouraged the
idea. He told her that if she wished to emigrate, he would personally arrange
all the necessary paperwork. Within only two days he had obtained her
passport, visa, and all the required documents. Thus, in 1960, Ana Mari
travelled to California with her aunt, settling first in Santa Rosa, about
forty miles north of San Francisco. Seeing San Francisco for the first time
made a deep impression on her. She spent a year in Santa Rosa helping her
aunt and one of her cousins. After that year she moved
to San Francisco, where she worked as a seamstress for a Basque couple—the husband
from Navarre and the wife from Bizkaia. She was twenty-five years old at the
time. One year later, in 1961,
she moved to Elko. A Basque family from San Francisco suggested that she
might find better opportunities there, and without much hesitation she
accepted. The Nevada desert struck her as bleak and desolate when she first
saw it. She initially worked for
the Lauzurika family, who owned the Nevada Hotel. They had recently
transferred ownership of the business to their daughter, who later became Ana
Mari's sister-in-law through marriage. They asked whether she would like to
stay and work with them, helping in the kitchen, and she gladly accepted. At that time the Nevada
Hotel regularly accommodated Basque sheepherders. Between twelve and fifteen
men could stay there at once. Ana Mari helped prepare meals both for the
shepherds lodging upstairs and for the restaurant's regular customers.
Laughing as she remembers those early days, she remarks that neither she nor
the woman in charge knew very much about cooking. She remained working
alongside that woman for twenty-two years, until approximately 1983, when the
restaurant was sold to an Italian couple. The husband was Italian, while the
wife was a French Basque and the sister of her future husband. Ana Mari
continued working for the new owners for another twenty years. She married José Manuel
Arbillaga in 1961. He was originally from Ossès (Ortzaize), in the French
Basque Country, and worked as a sheepherder. Ana Mari was twenty-six years
old when they married, whereas José Manuel was already fifty-two. She
explains that his original surname had actually been Arribillaga, but because
he had lived in Argentina, the family name had been incorrectly recorded
there and remained misspelled thereafter. (Part
2)
In 1963, Ana Mari returned to the Basque Country with her
husband and their first son. Shortly after arriving, her sister-in-law gave
birth but was forced to return to the hospital about ten days later, when
doctors discovered that she was suffering from a ruptured appendix. Faced with the situation, Ana Mari and her husband decided
to remain in the Basque Country until her sister-in-law had fully recovered.
During that extended stay, their second son was born. They purchased an
apartment and also took responsibility for caring for their infant nephew
while his mother recuperated. They raised the child for approximately a year
before eventually returning to Elko. Her husband returned first, and Ana Mari
followed later in 1967. She then recalls Ramón Zugazaga and his Basque restaurant, Biltoki. After returning to
Elko, she began working there, helping prepare the dining room, setting
tables, and filling in for waitresses whenever necessary. She remained there
until her retirement. When the restaurant was eventually sold, she decided
not to continue working for the new owners. In 1969, she also began teaching Basque dancing to children,
an activity that would become one of the defining contributions of her life
to the Basque community in Elko. At its height, nearly one hundred children
participated in her classes. Among her earliest students were Anita Franzoi (Anakabe),
Liz Moiola—who was born in Elko and later married Leon Bilbao—and several
other young women who eventually became dance instructors themselves.
Although three or four women were involved in teaching during those early
years, Ana Mari was the only one who continued year after year. She remained
responsible for the dance program for eighteen consecutive years. She learned Basque dancing from her uncle Guillermo Alberdi,
the priest she had mentioned earlier. Besides teaching dance, he also
promoted Basque pelota and many other aspects of Basque culture. Laughing,
she comments that her uncle "was always getting into trouble with
Franco." Although assigned to the parish of Arteaga, Guillermo did
not get along with the parish priest there, whom Ana Mari describes as a
committed supporter of Franco. When the Civil War broke out, Guillermo fled
to Bilbao because he feared he might otherwise be executed, as had happened
to other priests who were considered politically suspect. Recalling the two years she later spent living in Bilbao,
Ana Mari begins speaking about her eldest son, Fermín, who had been born
there. Two years before the interview he had suffered a serious automobile
accident that left him with a traumatic brain injury. Because he remained
undiscovered for nearly twenty-four hours after the crash, bleeding
internally, he sustained permanent neurological damage and severe memory
loss. Her uncle Guillermo continued to teach her traditional
dances whenever he returned to Arteaga. He rarely visited the village itself,
however, and never entered the parish church. Instead, he celebrated Mass in
a small hermitage located between Arteaga and Kortezubi. He died in Bilbao in
1962. The conversation then turns once again to the difficult
years of Franco's dictatorship. Ana Mari recalls one particularly painful
childhood memory. On one occasion she attended church wearing a white blouse
embroidered with small red flowers and green leaves. The parish priest
summoned her with a gesture and ordered her to return home and change her
clothes because, in his view, the colors resembled those of the Basque flag.
She remembers going home in tears, after which her mother confronted the
priest about his treatment of her daughter. She also recalls that the same priest sometimes refused Holy
Communion to certain parishioners while allowing others to receive it. The political repression touched many people around her. The
man for whom she had later worked in Bilbao, she says, had himself been
executed by firing squad. Although Ana Mari never personally witnessed
killings or acts of violence, she grew up listening to her mother recount
stories of repression and fear. "That's the way we were raised," she says quietly. School itself was also a difficult experience. She entered
at the age of six without knowing any Spanish. Her baptismal name was Ane
Miren, but official records registered her as Ana María because Basque names
were prohibited under Franco's regime. She remembers two childhood friends named Ikerne and
Aintzane. At school, however, they were forced to use the Spanish names
Visitación and Gloria. "We weren't allowed to speak Basque at school,"
she recalls. Ironically, she learned Christian doctrine in Basque at
church while studying exactly the same catechism in Spanish at school. As a
result, she memorized all of the prayers in both languages. Those years were also marked by hardship and scarcity. "There was hunger," she says. "Everything was
rationed. Life was sad—you know?" Her husband, José Arbillaga, spoke Spanish, Basque, and
English. As a child he had lived in Argentina with his parents before the
family returned to the French Basque Country. Their two sons also learned
Basque, although the older became considerably more fluent than the younger.
Both were also able to communicate in Spanish. Ana Mari is fully aware that her own Basque differed
significantly from her husband's. When their children were young, the family
often shifted naturally between three languages. Sometimes the parents spoke
Basque while the children answered in Spanish; at other times the parents
used Spanish and the children responded in English. She believes that her own Basque became somewhat mixed over
the years because, from childhood onward, she had been repeatedly forced to
switch between Basque and Spanish. "That's the kind of Basque I speak," she remarks
with a smile. She remembers that her grandmother never learned a single
word of Spanish. Her late husband had been born in Argentina. When he was
about ten years old, the family returned to the French Basque Country, where
he studied with the monks at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Later, because one of
his brothers had already settled in Nevada, he emigrated to the United States
while still a young man. (Part 3) The last time Ana Mari
visited the Basque Country was about two years before the interview, around
2019, when she traveled with her grandson Zakarias. On an earlier trip she
had been accompanied by another grandchild, Tabita, who stayed for three
months while taking a Spanish language course at the University of Deusto. Tabita occupies a special
place in Ana Mari's life. Since her father suffered a devastating automobile
accident, Ana Mari has played a major role in raising her. Her two sons, born
in 1962 and 1963, are now elderly themselves. Speaking of her injured son,
she explains that doctors implanted a medical device in his head to prevent
further complications. He is no longer able to live independently. "As long as I can,
I'll take care of him," she says simply. Before the accident, he
had been an excellent dancer and pelota player. Now, however, he is no longer
able to participate in either activity. Reflecting on the Basque
community in Elko, Ana Mari remarks that several Basques had recently died of
strokes. During one particular year alone, she recalls, three members of the
community passed away in this way. Her own son has also suffered a stroke,
leaving him with balance problems affecting the left side of his body. Even
at eighty-eight years of age, Ana Mari remains his principal caregiver. She explains that her
family owns a trailer, a pickup truck, and their home, but she believes the
sensible course of action will eventually be to sell these possessions and
live on the proceeds together with their Social Security benefits. At one point during the
interview, a question about her Christian faith is misunderstood, and she
instead begins talking enthusiastically about sewing. She continues to make
dresses for high school girls participating in Basque dance groups. Many of
the young women leave for college soon afterward, and the dresses are often
used only briefly before being stored away. Ana Mari believes she is now the
only seamstress in Elko who still specializes in traditional Basque costumes. She explains that she
currently works with four different dance groups, ranging from children as
young as seven years old to middle school and high school students. Some of the older girls
ask for individualized costumes. "They'll say, 'I want
to do this,' or 'I want to do that,'" she laughs. She points out that this
differs from Boise, where everyone generally wears identical costumes. Ana Mari proudly shows us
several of the costumes she has made for the high school dancers. She never
charges for her labor; the families pay only for the materials. Most of the
costumes are stored at the Basque Club, although those that have recently
been used are taken home, where she washes, dries, irons, and carefully
stores them in the basement of her house. A single dancer may own
four or five different costumes, each with its own combination of colors and
styles. The examples she shows us belong to her granddaughter Tabita. Making these costumes occupies
her throughout the year. The younger children's outfits are simpler, but
older dancers require aprons, shawls, waistcoats, and increasingly elaborate
garments. Under normal circumstances she can complete one costume per day; if
she has eight to make, she expects the work to require eight full days. For many years she
purchased fabric from stores such as JCPenney and Walmart, but suitable
materials have become increasingly difficult to find. Today she orders most
of her supplies online. Whenever someone asks her
to make a costume, her response is always the same: "Bring me the
material, and I'll make it." The colors most frequently
requested are blue and red. Every year new children join the dance groups,
requiring an entirely new set of costumes. Her granddaughter Tabita
often tells her, "Would you teach me
how to do it, so I can do it?" Ana Mari replies that
sewing no longer feels like a burden because she has few other
responsibilities besides caring for her family. She again compares Elko
with Boise. In Boise, she explains, everyone wears essentially the same
costume, whereas dancers in Elko often arrive with photographs taken in Spain
or the French Basque Country and ask her to reproduce what they have seen. For the younger dance
groups, the Basque Club covers the cost of the costumes. Older dancers
generally inherit garments previously worn by earlier generations. Another local seamstress,
the wife of a man named Mallea, used to make costumes as well, but unlike Ana
Mari, she charged for her work. To keep everything
organized, Ana Mari assigns a number to each young child's skirt so she
always knows which garment belongs to which dancer. She estimates that she
has sewn eighteen complete sets of costumes for the youngest group alone. Besides dance costumes,
she also knits socks and sweaters for children. From time to time she
raffles handmade baby clothes to raise money, charging about thirty dollars
per set. She makes virtually every
component of the traditional women's costume: underskirts, aprons, headscarves,
and waistcoats. Many of the waistcoats are reversible, featuring different
colors on each side—for example, red and green on one side, blue and black on
the other—allowing dancers to create what appears to be an entirely different
costume simply by turning the garment inside out. She enthusiastically
describes the many color combinations she has designed over the years: white
aprons with blue skirts, green aprons with brown skirts, purple skirts with
black or white ribbons, and many others. Because she no longer has
outside employment, she says with a smile, "I don't care." Only the materials
represent a significant expense. Even a simple skirt requires about
twenty-five dollars' worth of fabric, ribbons, zippers, and trim. Decorative
lace alone can cost several dollars per garment. When she first began
teaching, the repertoire centered on traditional dances such as the jota
and the aurresku. Today, however, young dancers discover new
choreographies online and ask her to create costumes matching the styles they
have seen on the internet. For boys she generally
makes only the gerriko (traditional sash); the remaining garments,
including the berets, are usually purchased elsewhere. Towards the end of the
interview, Ana Mari speaks warmly about her grandchildren in the Basque
Country. She has four grandchildren living around Gernika and another
grandson in Lezama. Whenever she visits, she usually stays with her eldest
granddaughter, Ana Mari, who lives on a farmhouse outside Gernika. She is amazed by how well
her grandchildren now speak English, something that was unimaginable during
her own childhood. Looking back, she believes
that both the Basque Country and its people have changed profoundly. Sometimes she says, only
half jokingly, that those who never experienced Franco's dictatorship should
have lived through those years in order to understand what genuine hardship
meant. Today's children receive
smartphones at six or seven years of age, whereas during her youth even
having a telephone in the neighborhood was a rarity. She recalls advising one
of her granddaughters, who had completed an engineering degree but was unable
to find employment: "Go there and start
washing dishes until you find a position in your profession." The young woman refused
because she considered such work beneath her qualifications. Ana Mari sees this as one
of the major differences between generations. In her youth, people accepted
whatever work was available. There were no cars, few bicycles, and little
material comfort. Today, she says, people always seem to want more. With a smile she
occasionally teases her grandchildren: "If Franco were still
alive, he'd teach you how to live." The remark is clearly
intended less as praise for the dictatorship than as a comment on how much
more austere life had been during her youth. She also remembers how
homogeneous her village once was. Until she was about fourteen years old,
almost everyone in the area spoke Basque. Only when railway construction
brought workers from Galicia and Andalusia did local people begin
encountering Spanish speakers on a regular basis. Her older brother, a
carpenter, once had lunch with several Galician workers. One of them proudly
declared that his children were Basque. Ana Mari's brother replied, "No, your children
are Galician—they were simply born in the Basque Country." The discussion that
followed, she says, reflected the same kinds of questions about identity that
arise today in conversations about Mexicans and Americans in the United
States. She finds it remarkable
that many African immigrants she now sees selling goods on the streets of the
Basque Country speak excellent Basque. Smiling, she concludes
with a comparison to her own life: "We're not Americans
either—but this is where we live."
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Maria Jesus (Yturriaga)
Narbaiza
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María Jesús Narbaiza (Part 1)
Battle Mountain (Nevada) herrian egindako elkarrizketa, 2023ko
azaroan. 1943ko abuztuaren 1ean jaio zen Ereñon, Mendiaundikoa baserrian. Ama Josefina Alcibar zen, jatorriz nafarra, baina Mariak ez daki
zehazki zein herritakoa. Aita Francisco Yturriaga, Ereñokoa, ingelesa ondotxo zekien ze
hamalau urtez egon zen “nabegetan”. Aita saiatzen zen Ereñoko familiari
ingelesez egiten, gero Ameriketara joaten zirenerako ondo konpontzeko. Maria
Jesusek ez zion kasu handirik egin, baina Nevadara etorri zenean aitak
erakutsitako gauza askorekin gogoratu zen. Hiru neba-arreba ziren eta Maria
Jesús “erdikoa”, bigarrena, neska bakarra. María Jesus Ereñon bizi izan zen 20 urte bete arte: orduan
ezkondu (1963an?) eta Ermura joan zen
bizitzera. Eskolan 15 urtera arte egon zen, eta maisu maistrak izan zituen,
Dª Carmen, Faustina eta “Kisket” esaten zioten beste maisu bat, agian klaseko
atea beti zarratuta nahi zuelako euki. Maisu horrek umeak jotzen zituen
Eugenio izeneko mutil batek ekarritako urretxa adarrekin. Behin Eugeniori
galditu zioten: “Eugenio, horrenbesteko lerdoa zelan zara? Ze maisuak horrek
adarrokaz burue apurtukotsu lehelengo.” Baina Eugeniok ez zuen uste hori
gertatuko zenik. Hala ta guztiz hari eman zion lehenengo paliza Kisketek. Eskolan hamabost urtera arte egon zen. Gero baserrian laguntzen
zuen: behiak, ahuntzak, ardiak, oiloak eta untxiak… denetarik zeukaten.
Anaiarena izatera pasatu zen. Anaia duela bi urte hil zen: “estegorria”
aipatzen du eta gero odolustu ei zen. Jose Maria Narbaiza Zelaia-rekin ezkondu zen, Ereñon. Urkiolako
txirrindulari karrera batean ezagutu zuen. Ikustera joan zen Jose Mari lagun
batekin eta han topatu ziren. Ermukoa zen senarra eta ezkondu ostean Ermura
joan ziren bizitzera. Gaztetan pulidore lanetan ibili zen, baina gaixotu egin
zen (agian hainbeste hautsa “irenstearren”) eta hortik kanpora ibiltzeko
gomendatu zioten. Urkomendi baserrikoa zen bera eta Kalamua pean dago. Gerra
denboran bonbardaketak eta borrokak egon ziren eta 10 urte inguru izango
zituen sasoi hartan. Bertan zegoen koba batean izkutatu egiten zen
familiakoekin. Behiak ere horra sartzen zituzten bonben ihesi.
1968an senarra Ameriketara joan zen. Winnemuccara joan zen
borregero eta bertan Pet Echart izan ardi-nagusia edo usaba[12]
izan zen. Andrea (María Jesús) eta hiru seme-alabak Ermuan geratu ziren: ez
zuten apenas aita ezagutzen. Kartaz komunikatzen ziren eta karta zein argazki
haiek guztiak maleta batean sartuta zeuden Ereñoko baserrian. Maleta hura,
baina, desagertu egin zen. Asko mugitzen ziren (Mª Jesus eta seme-alabak)
Ermuko pisutik Mendiaundikua baserrira. Alaba nagusiak han ikasi zuen
euskara, amomarekin eta beste ume euskaldunekin hitz eginez (euskaldun hutsa
zela dio Maria Jesusek). Beste
neba-arreba gazteagoak (Aitor barne) makalago ibili dira euskararekin. 1975ean gizonak erreklamatu egin zituen eta Ameriketa joan ziren,
Battle Mountainera. Izan ere, Aitor semeak problema bat zeukan buru-hezurrean
eta medikamenduak Ameriketatik bidaltzen zizkioten. Senarrak erreklamatu eta
errazago konponduko zen hori. Ordurako Mariak bazuen neba bat, Cecilio
Yturriaga Idahon zegoena (1974an joana). Hegazkinez etorri ziren Ameriketara, lau ume eta bera bost.
Maiatzaren 25a zen eta heldu eta edurtza handia zegoen. Taxia eskatu eta Elko
hotelera joan zen segiduan, seme-alabekin. Cecilio joan zitzaion bila gero
Battle Mountain-era joateko. Gauez heldu ziren, dena elurtuta zegoen eta etxe
bi baino ez zituen ikusi. Hurrengo egunean, goizean goizik jaikita, kalera
atera eta “enbra eder bi ikusi zituen”. Nebari esan zion ea bueltatxo bat
emango zion ingurua ikusteko. Halaxe egin eta orduan konturatu zen “bere”
lekua topatu zuela Battle Mountain-en. Umeek segituan ikasi zuten ingelesa, baina gaztelania edo euskara
galtzen joan ziren. Battle Mountainen euskaldun asko zeuden orduan. Iturritarrak, eta
abar. Hasierako 5 urteak BM-eko hotel batean egiten zuen lan: nagusia
ziren Bush eta Carmen, bizkaitarra. Oheak egin, garbiketa kontuak… Gero
Ikastetxe batera lan egitera joan zen, “Gobernuarentzat” egin zuen lan,
ikastetxea publikoa zelako. Aldaketa izan zen “erretiroan” pentsatzen hasi
zelako. Hoteleko lanak ez zuen “kontizatzen” eta eskolako lanak bai: orain eskolak emandako
erretiroari esker ederto bizi da. Senarrak eta biok ondo irabazten zuten,
“Jainkoari eskerrak”, baina gizon defuntuaren erretiroa ez zaio behar bezala
ailegatzen. Bere erretiroarekin ostera ondo bizi da. “Aplikaziñoa” egin behar izan zuen. Hogeita hamar urte bete
zituen eskola horretan lanean (1978-2008?). Eskolan erraztasuna eman zioten
eguerdian gizonarentzat bazkaria prestatzeko edo afaria prestatzeko: goizean
betetzen ez zuena arratsaldean betetzen zuen (eskola etxetik hurbil zegoen).
2008an erretiratu zen, gizonak animatuta, bakarrik ez egoteko “bizi guztixan
bakarrik” egoten zirelako sentsazioa zuten eta (bakoitza bere lanean egonda).
Gustura hartu zuen erretiroa baina hiru urteren buruan gizona hil zitzaion. Euskal herrira urte birik baten edo hirurik baten joaten zen
senarrarekin. Baina ama eta neba hil ziran lez, “gitxitxuago” joaten hasi
ziren. Azkenerako nekatu egiten zela aitortzen digu. Ermura eta koinatuaren
baserrira, “Urkora” joaten ziren koinatuak “behartuta”: “hauxe dozue zuen
etxea” esaten zien. Koinatua hil zenean Lekeition hartzen zuten pisu bat eta
bi kotxe alokairuan, mugitzeko eta senideak bisitatzeko. Ereñora ere joaten
ziren, familiaren baserria (eta bertakoak) bisitatzera. Euskal Herrian giroa ez zuen oso polito ikusten (tentsio
politikoari buruz ari da): “hemendik gerreak urten behar dau” esaten zuen.
Bere buruari galdetzen dio, “zelan bizi da hemen jendie?”; alegia, lanpostu
bakar batekin familiak ateratzen ahalegintzen dira, baina hori gutxi da bere
ustez, euskal familiak, “txikiak” izan arren (seme-alaba gutxikoak, gaur
egun), behar izan ekonomikoak dituzte. Lagunak dituzte (pelukerak eta) Euskal
Herrian nahiko “justu” bizi ei direnak. Bi lanpostu batera ezin izatea edo
galazota izatean kaltegarria dela iruditzen zaio. Eurorako aldaketa ere txarrerako izan zela
begitantzen zaio. Ameriketako egoera politikoa ere itsusi dagoela dio, eta
kritikoa da egungo presidentearekin (“inuxente, kalamidadea” esaten du, eta
epiteto barregarriak iruditu zaizkit). Nevadako eta Idahoko beste euskal etxe eta euskal klubekin izan
dute harremana. Herri kirolak ikusi, giroaz gozatu eta, batez ere, musean
aritzea gustatzen zitzaien. Beti “trofeoren” bat ekartzen zuen mus
txapelketatik (senarrarekin egiten zuen bikotea). Winnemucca-koekin
gaizki-ulerturen bat egon zen eta bera “sentidue” edo sentibera den lez,
erabaki zuen Elkora joaten hastea (eta Winnemucca saihestu). San Franciscoko
euskaldunekin edo haien kontra saiatu da askotan, eta ondo, baina batzuetan
“tranpa” egiten dutela dio, puntuen zenbaketan “lapurrerako listo” ibiltzen
direla, baina bera hor firme egoten da. Mus bikotea bere senarra eta Alfonso
izan zen (alargun gelditu zenean). Baina Alfonso ere Battle Mountainen gazte
hil zen, sute baten ondorioz, bera eta bere 7 urteko “txotxoa” (umea), kea
harnastuta. Festetan aita, bere senarra, harriak altzatzen ibili zen, eta
gero bere semea, Aitor Narbaiza hasi zen. Orain Elkoko sherifa da. Gabonak “euskaldunen moduan” ospatzen dituztela dio: txipiroiak,
mihia, kalluak, txarri hankak eta horrelako janariak, prestatzen dituzte.
Inguruko euskaldunak, bakarrik bizi zirenak barne, bere etxera etortzen ziren
Gabon gaua ospatzera. Jendeak gustura jaten zuen afari hori. Gero sobratzen
zena (“larregi” prestatzen baitzuen), “errepartidu” edo banatu egiten zen
afaltiarren artean. Urte barriak ere ospatzen zituzten, “danak”. Orain faltan
botatzen ditu horietako asko, “joan” egin direlako, hil direlako Battle Mountain
eta inguruan. Urte berriko kanta euskalduna etxe bakoitzaren mahaian
kantatzen zen: “Urte barri, ekarri txarri belarri, dekonak ez dekonari,
Lehengo urtie sarri-sarri, nik ez dekot eta zuk emon niri, zuk emoten ezpozu,
urte guztixen ni larri-larri”. Bestelako kantu askorik ez zuen ikasi inguruko
herriko jaietan gaztetan Ereñoko baserrian hainbeste “patarixekin”[13],
ezin zen ardura hori utzi. Nebak, ostera, bizikleta hartuta joaten ziren
gehiago jaietara. Gizona bitartean minan egiten zuen lan. Gizona 2011an hil zen,
bihotzekoak jota (elkarrizketa egin genuenean hamabi urte pasata zeuden),
gauez gelan bakarrik zegoela jausi zen “seko” lurrera. Odola “lodixa” ei
zuen, operaziñoak izan zituen bihotzekoak arriskua gutxitzeko. Gogoratzen da aita urtetan egon zela gaizo (leuzemia ei zeukan), eta gazte hil
zen, berrogeita hamabost urterekin. Ama bakarrik geratu, ganadua edo patariak
kendu eta herrira jaitsi ziren, Ermura. “Weekend-ean” baserrira itzultzen
ziren beharretan laguntzeko. Battle Mountainera itzulita, euskaldunen artean laguntza zegoela
gogoratzen du. Tramite administratiboetarako “interprete” lanak egin dituzte,
Gabonetan etxera gonbidatu, norbait hiltzen zenean gorpua edo “errautsak”
“Espainara” bidali… hainbat gauza egin dituzte eta egiten jarraitzen dute,
“dan-danak” laguntzeko prest. Bizkiara, Nafarroara, Gipuzkoara… bidali dituzte
zenbait hildakoen gorpuak edota errautsak: eurak arduratu dira zeregin
horretaz, Battle Mountain-eko euskal cluba arduratuta. Orain Bizkaira joatekotan, Busturian bizi den lehengusu bat,
zenbait loba, bisitatzea izango zen kontuan, baina gehiegi mugitu barik, ze
han trafiko handia dago eta beti dago arazoa kotxea non uztea. Arduratuta dago familiako
baserriarekin zer egingo ote duten: orain bere loba bat arduratzen da
horretaz eta Maria Jesusi begitantzen zaio loba horrek ez dakiela ondo zer
egin baserri horrekin, nahiz eta terrenoetan pinu asko dauden eta horregatik
bakarrik produktiboa izan. “Hemengoagoa” sentitzen da hangoa baino. Itzultzeko “sasoia”
denean, etxera, Battle Mountain-era etortzeko gogoz egoten da, hemen bizi
baita “trankil”, “pozik” eta hau delako bere egoteko lekua, “hauxe da neure
etxé”, dio. Euskal Herrian “departamenduak” (pisuak) txikiak dira eta eurak
ezin “kabidu”: jada ez daude ohituta horrela bizitzera, Ameriketan ere
bizitokia zabalagoa delako. Bisitan bai, gustora joaten da, baina gustora
itzuli ere bai. Maite alabaren gizonari ere gustatzen zaio eta urtero edo
urte birik baten joaten dira. Euskal Herritik lobak etorri izan dira eta duela gutxi bi
hilabete egin zituzten bere loba bik. Jotateko orduan “negar” egiten dutela dio,
gustatzen zaiela Battle Mountain eta inguruan ibiltzea eta hemen egotea.
Koinatu bi bizi ziren Battle Mountain-en (Faustino eta beste bat) eta haien
lobak etortzen ziren. Orain hilak dira haiek, batek “stroka”[14]
emanda. Euskaditik beti galdetzen diote, “noz etorri berdozu?”, baina
berari biajeak edo bidaiak beldurra ematen dio, luze egiten zaiolako. Batzuek
lo egiten dute bidaian, baina berak ez: norbait lotan ikusten duenean,
brometan esaten du, “musturrean jotekogo gogoa” datorkiola dio. Gainera, orain
familiako batzuk “joan dira” (hil dira), gurasoak, nebak… lobak duela
berrogeita hamar urte oso txiki utzi zituzten eta orain pertsona helduak
dira, beste bizimodu bat daukatenak. Euskal Herrian geratu direnek mentalidade “zerraua” (itxia)
dutela iruditzen zaio. Beren ikuspuntutik ateratzea oso gaitz ikusten du.
Askok Frankoren denborako kontuak gordetzen dituzte, baina berari bost axola
zaio. “Politikiek ez deusku emoten geuri ezebe. Drogie, jaleue ta heriotzak”:
hori da bere ebazpena. Apaizen artean ere desberdintasuna ikusten du: bera txikia zelako
garaian apaizak zuzenki edo jokatzen zuten eta orain “saladefiestas-en”
ikusten direla, apaiz itxurarik (edo janzkerarik) gabe. Ameriketan ere
antzera. Horrela galtzen ei da “erlijiñue” bere ustez. Aita Santuaren zenbait
gauzetan (bere ustez) norabide falta ikusten du, “dena libre” uzten duelako.
Bere ustez, “legie legie da”, eta zenbait gauza betetzen jarraitu behar dute.
Ameriketan 9 hilabeterekin ere abortatu litekeela dio (zenbait estatutan) eta
gogoratzen du ume horiek (adin horrekin) bizitzeko eta ibiltzeko listo
daudela. Berak hori ez du “topetan ondo, hori da krimena”. Hemengo telebista
eta Euskadiko telebista ikusteko parada dute, eta “ez dago alde makala, ez”,
bion artean; alegia, alde handia dagoela (ikuspuntuetan, eta abar). Euskadin abade batzuek exenplo txarra eman zioten eta horrek
kaltea egin zion bere “erlijiñoan”. Abade batengandik hurbil pasatzea
saihesten zuen eta gaztetxotan bera zaldiz ibiltzen zen, Ereñotik beste
lekuetara eta buelta, eta zaldiz bueltak ematen zituen zenbait lekutatik ez
pasatzeko. Don Pedro izeneko abade bat ezagutu zuen, hura abade “berdaderoa”.
Baina besteak “enbrekin”[15]
ibiltzen ziren: bere ustez abadeak jendea laguntzeko daude eta ez “bidean
urteteko” (emakumeak pertsegitzeko), errespetua utzita. Dotrina euskaraz izaten zuten herrian. Etxean zegoen presio
gehiena mezatara joateko edo dotrina kontuetan (ez horrenbeste gizartean):
etxeko bakeagatik “bete” egiten zen erlijio kontuekin. Euskal Herrira joaten
denean Lekeitioko elizara joatea gustatzen zaio, ederra delako. Euskadin
galduta ikusten du elizkizunekiko errespetua, batez ere akordeoiak eta musika
mota batzuk (pasodobleak) elizkizunean sartzen direnean. Seme alabak (tartean Aitor, Elkoko sherifa) mezatara joaten dira
(eta bilobak) domekero eta pozik dago horregatik. Anekdota bat kontatu digu horren haritik. Battle Mountainen
alabak txikiak zirela mormoien eliz baten paretik pasatu ziren. Maria Jesusek
ez zuen nahi horretan sartzea eta bromeneta esan zien “hori deabruen eliza
da, denak adarrekin daude”. Orduan alabak beldurtu ziren, eta bata besteari
tiraka ibili ziren inor sartu ez zedin eliza hartan. Ameriketan sinismena
askatasun gehiagorekin bizitzen da eta mezatara joateagatik edo ez
joateagatik ez diete ezer esaten. Apaizak hemen laguntzeko prest daude eta
eurak ere (bere familiakoak) laguntzeko prest, parrokian eta karitatezko
ekimenetan. Eurak euren errezu eta
otoitzak egiten jarraitzen dituzte: gogoratzen da gaztetxotan baserrian artoa
zuritzen zeudela errosarioa errezatzen zutela egunero-egunero. Ameriketara Euskal Herrian zeukan zaldizaletasuna ekarri du.
Zaldi batzuk badituzte eta Maria Jesus sasoi batean ibiltzen zen, “fenzak”[16]
eta guzti saltatu egiten zituen. Umeak berarekin igotzen ziren zaldira eta
bera pozik joaten zen noiz edo noiz seme edo alabaren bat hartuta. Euskal Herritik Battle Mountain-era goadaña (sega), zorroztarria
eta pikamailua ekarri zituen. “Bedarra ebateko” (belarra ebakitzeko edo
mozteko). Han ohituta zegoelako eta Ameriketan zaldiei jaten emateko eta
lagungarritzat ikusten zuen. Arrastrillko edo eskuarea ere ekarri zuen,
egurrezkoa. Buztarri edo uztarri txiki bat ekartzeko asmoa zuen, baina beldur
zen kenduko ziotelakoan. Urte batzuetan “Palamonten” (Battle Mountain-en) Ereñon zegoela
begitatzen zitzaion, horrenbeste euskaldun eta horrenbeste euskara entzuten
zen kaleetan. Behin batean Alberto-rekin Winnemucca-ra joan zen errekadu bat
egiten, bera “manejetan” (Maria Jesus gidatzen zihoan). Herri hartara heldu eta
gizon bat ikusi zuten artaburuak kalean saltzen. Albertok esan zuen, “harek
behien moduen gura dau horreik artaburuok gizonak jatea, ze horreik behiak be
jango leukez!”; aldamenean zegoen gizon batek (bertakoa), “baita neuk be!”
esan zuen euskaraz. Euskaldun asko zeuden eta dendetan euskaldun “ezezagun”
bat topatzea erraza zen. Gerora jakin zuen “tranperua” zela. Harrez geroztik
lagunak egin ziren. Winnemucca-ko Isidro Etxeto (nafarra) ezagutzen du, eta
bere familia. Telefonorako lineak (kableak?) jartzen ibili zen inguruan.
Nafarren euskara, “euskal-frantsesen” euskara… klase guztiak ulertzen zituen,
baina “batua” dio ez duela ulertzen.
María
Jesús (Yturriaga): ondorioak Ikusten da ekimen handiko emakumea dela. Txikitan edo
gaztetxotan, nebak ez bezala, baserrian geratzeko erabakia hartu zuen bere
gurasoak laguntzearren. Zaldiz ibiltzen zen asko eta horrek lagundu zion
zenbait arazo “saihestea”, batez ere gaztetxo ganberro batzuen erasoak.
Ezkondu eta gero senarra joan zitzaion Ameriketara eta urte batzuez bakarrik
atera behar izan zuen seme-alabak harik eta Ameriketara joan arte. Ameriketan
zegoela familia aurrera ateratzeaz gain, zenbait lanbidetan aritu zen,
erretiro ona izango zuela modu inteligentean planifikatuz. Battle Mountain-eko
eta Nevadako beste lekuetako euskaldunekin harreman onak izan ditu eta, ahal
zuen neurrian laguntzen saiatu da. Euskara oso adierazkor eta aberatsa
mantendu du eta ontzat ikusten du Ameriketan, aukera duten bitartean euskal
ohiturei eustea. Esanguratsua da bere gaztetako baserri girotik zenbait
tramankulu ekarri dituela: sega, zorroztarria, pikamailua eta eskuarea,
nolabaiteko mentalitatea handik ere ekarri duela irudikatuz edo sinbolizatuz.
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María Jesús Narbaiza (Part 1)
Interview conducted in Battle Mountain,
Nevada, in November 2023. María Jesús Narbaiza was born on August 1, 1943, at the
Mendiaundikoa farmhouse in the town of Ereño, Bizkaia. Her mother, Josefina Alcibar, was originally from Navarre,
although María Jesús is unsure from which village. Her father, Francisco
Yturriaga, was a native of Ereño. He spoke English remarkably well, having
spent fourteen years working aboard merchant ships. He often tried to speak
English with members of the family back in Ereño so that they would be better
prepared if they ever emigrated to the United States. María Jesús admits that
she paid little attention at the time, but after arriving in Nevada she
frequently found herself remembering many of the things her father had tried
to teach her. She was the middle child of three siblings and the family's
only daughter. María Jesús lived in Ereño until she was twenty years old.
Around 1963 she married and moved to the nearby industrial town of Ermua. She attended school until the age of fifteen. She remembers
several of her teachers, including Doña Carmen, Faustina, and another teacher
whom everyone nicknamed "Kisket." She believes the nickname may have come from his habit of always
wanting the classroom door kept shut. Kisket was feared because he regularly beat his pupils with
hazel branches brought to school by a boy named Eugenio. One day the children
teased Eugenio, telling him: "Eugenio, how can you be so foolish? One of these days
the teacher is going to crack your head open with those branches." Eugenio dismissed the warning, convinced that nothing like
that would ever happen. Ironically, he was the very first student Kisket beat with
the branches he himself had brought. After leaving school, María Jesús devoted herself to helping
on the family farm. They raised cows, goats, sheep, chickens, rabbits, and
virtually every kind of livestock needed to sustain a traditional Basque
farmhouse. Eventually the property passed to her brother, who died two years
before the interview. She recalls that he suffered from stomach cancer and
later experienced severe internal bleeding. She married José María Narbaiza Zelaia in Ereño. They first
met while watching a cycling race near Urkiola. José María had attended the
event with a friend, and the two happened to meet there. José María was from Ermua, specifically from the Urkomendi
farmhouse beneath Mount Kalamua. As a young man he had worked polishing
metal, but the constant exposure to dust damaged his health, and doctors
advised him to find employment outdoors instead. He often spoke about his childhood memories of the Spanish
Civil War. Heavy fighting and aerial bombardments took place around Kalamua,
and as a boy of about ten years old he and his family frequently hid inside a
nearby cave. They even brought their cattle into the cave to protect them
from the bombing. In 1968 José María emigrated to the United States, where he
became a sheepherder near Winnemucca, Nevada. His foreman was Pete Echart. Meanwhile, María Jesús remained in Ermua with their three
young children. Because of the long separation, the children scarcely knew
their father. Communication depended almost entirely on letters, and the
family carefully preserved both the correspondence and photographs in a
suitcase kept at the farmhouse in Ereño. Sadly, the suitcase later disappeared,
and with it an irreplaceable record of those years apart. During this period María Jesús and the children divided
their time between their apartment in Ermua and the family farmhouse in
Ereño. Her eldest daughter learned Basque there by speaking with her
grandmother and other local children. María Jesús proudly describes her as a
native Basque speaker. The younger children—including her son Aitor—never
acquired the language quite as fluently. In 1975 José María arranged for his family to join him in
Nevada. One reason for the move was that their son Aitor suffered from a
serious condition affecting the bones of his skull. The medication he
required was already being sent from the United States, and bringing the
family to America promised easier access to his medical treatment. By then María Jesús also had a brother living in Idaho.
Cecilio Yturriaga had emigrated there in 1974. María Jesús flew to the United States with her four
children. They arrived on May 25. To her surprise, a heavy snowfall greeted
them. After landing they took a taxi directly to the Elko Hotel, where they
waited until her brother arrived to drive them to Battle Mountain. They reached the town late at night. Everything was covered
in snow, and María Jesús remembers seeing only two houses. The following morning she woke early and stepped outside.
The first thing she noticed was "two beautiful women." Curious to
see more of her new surroundings, she asked her brother to drive her around
the area. As they toured Battle Mountain, something unexpected
happened. Almost immediately she felt an extraordinary sense of belonging. "That," she recalls, "was when I realized I
had found my place." Her children quickly learned English, although as the years
passed they gradually lost much of their Spanish and Basque. At the time, Battle Mountain had a thriving Basque
population. Families such as the Iturris and many others had already
established themselves there, making the newcomers feel welcome from the very
beginning. For her first five years in Battle Mountain, María Jesús
worked in one of the local hotels owned by Bush and his wife Carmen, who was
from Bizkaia. Her responsibilities included making beds, cleaning rooms, and
other housekeeping duties. Later she accepted a position at the local public school,
becoming a government employee. The change proved to be one of the most
important decisions of her life because the school position qualified her for
a public pension, whereas her hotel employment had not. Looking back, she says that both she and her husband earned
a good living, "thank God." Nevertheless, after her husband's death
his pension proved to be relatively modest. Her own retirement benefits from
the school system, however, have allowed her to live comfortably ever since.
(Part 2)
Before accepting her
position at the public school, María Jesús had to submit a formal
application. She ultimately spent thirty years working there, remaining until
her retirement in 2008. The school administration
was very accommodating. Because the building was close to her home, she was
allowed to leave during her lunch break to prepare meals for her husband. Any
hours she missed at midday she simply made up later in the afternoon. In 2008, encouraged by her
husband, she decided to retire. Looking back, she explains that throughout
most of their married life they had each been absorbed in their own work,
often feeling as though they lived separate daily routines despite sharing
the same home. Retirement finally allowed them to spend more time together. She enjoyed those years
enormously. Tragically, however, only three years later her husband passed
away. For many years the couple
returned to the Basque Country every two or three years. As her mother and
brother passed away, those visits gradually became less frequent. Eventually,
she admits, the long journeys became increasingly tiring. Whenever they returned,
they spent time in Ermua and at her brother-in-law's farmhouse near Urko. Her
brother-in-law always insisted: "This is your
home." After he died, they began
renting an apartment in Lekeitio instead. They would hire two cars so they
could travel independently and visit relatives throughout the region. They
also continued visiting the family farmhouse in Ereño whenever possible. Reflecting on the Basque
Country today, María Jesús expresses concern about the political climate she
has observed during recent visits. "It feels as though
another war could break out," she remarks. She also wonders how
ordinary families are able to make ends meet. In her opinion, living on a
single salary has become increasingly difficult, even for relatively small
families. She mentions several friends—including hairdressers—who, despite
working hard, struggle financially. She believes restrictions that make it
difficult for people to hold multiple jobs only worsen the situation. She also feels that the
introduction of the euro made everyday life more expensive. Nor is she particularly
optimistic about politics in the United States. Speaking candidly, she
criticizes the country's current president, describing him with a series of
colorful and humorous expressions that reflect her frustration with
contemporary political leadership. Throughout the years, she
and her husband maintained close ties with Basque clubs throughout Nevada and
Idaho. They enjoyed attending festivals, watching demonstrations of Basque
rural sports, socializing with friends, and, above all, playing mus,
the traditional Basque card game. The couple frequently
returned home with trophies from mus tournaments. At one point, however, a
misunderstanding with members of the Winnemucca Basque community left María
Jesús hurt. Sensitive by nature, she decided thereafter to attend tournaments
in Elko instead. She also competed
regularly against players from San Francisco. Although she generally enjoyed
those matches, she jokes that some opponents were remarkably creative when
keeping score. "They're quick enough
to steal a few points," she laughs. Whenever that happened,
she made sure to stand her ground. Her regular mus partner
was first her husband and, after she was widowed, a man named Alfonso. Sadly, Alfonso also died
young in Battle Mountain. A fire broke out in his home, and both he and his
seven-year-old son died from smoke inhalation. Basque festivals were an
important part of family life. Her husband participated in stone-lifting
competitions, and years later their son Aitor Narbaiza followed in his
footsteps. Today Aitor serves as the sheriff of Elko County. Christmas was always
celebrated "the Basque way." She prepared traditional
dishes such as squid, beef tongue, tripe, pig's feet, and many other familiar
Basque specialties. Basques from the
surrounding area—including those who lived alone—were always invited to
celebrate Christmas Eve at their home. Everyone enjoyed the meal, and because
María Jesús invariably cooked far more food than necessary, the leftovers
were distributed among the guests before they returned home. New Year's celebrations
were equally important. Many of those friends have since passed away, and she
admits that she misses them deeply. Every New Year's Eve they
sang an old Basque verse around the dinner table: Urte barri, ekarri txarri
belarri, She explains that she
never learned many other traditional songs because, during her childhood on
the family farm in Ereño, there was always too much work to attend local
festivals. Her brothers, however, often rode their bicycles to nearby
celebrations. Meanwhile, her husband
eventually left sheep ranching and found employment in the mining industry. He died in 2011 after
suffering a heart attack. She remembers waking during the night to find that
he had suddenly collapsed onto the bedroom floor. Doctors had long been
concerned about his heart because of unusually thick blood, and he had
undergone several operations intended to reduce the risk of a fatal cardiac
event. Despite those efforts, they were ultimately unable to save him. The conversation then
turns back to her own parents. Her father suffered from
leukemia for many years before dying at only fifty-five years of age. After
his death, her mother could no longer manage the farm alone. The livestock
was gradually sold, and the family moved down to Ermua. Even so, they
returned to the farmhouse on weekends to help with whatever work still needed
to be done. Back in Battle Mountain,
María Jesús remembers the remarkable solidarity that characterized the Basque
community. Whenever newcomers needed
help with official paperwork, someone volunteered as an interpreter. Families
invited people who were alone to share Christmas dinner. If a Basque
immigrant died, community members organized the transportation of the body—or
later the ashes—back to Spain. She herself participated
in many of these efforts. Working through the Battle
Mountain Basque Club, members of the community arranged for deceased Basques
to be returned to Bizkaia, Navarre, Gipuzkoa, and other parts of the Basque
Country. "We've always tried
to help everyone," she says. (Part 3) If she were to return to
Bizkaia today, María Jesús says that her priorities would be visiting a
cousin who lives in Busturia and spending time with several of her
grandchildren. She would prefer, however, not to travel around too much,
since traffic has become so heavy that simply finding a place to park is
often a challenge. She is also concerned
about the future of the family farmhouse in Ereño. One of her granddaughters
is now responsible for the property, but María Jesús is not convinced that she
knows what to do with it. Although the surrounding land is covered with pine
trees that still generate income, she worries about what will ultimately
become of the farmhouse. After nearly half a
century in Nevada, she now feels more at home there than in the Basque
Country. Whenever the time comes to
return from a visit to Spain, she finds herself looking forward to going back
to Battle Mountain. "I live peacefully
here," she says. "I'm happy here. This is my home." She explains that
apartments in the Basque Country now seem far too small after becoming
accustomed to the spacious homes and open landscapes of the American West.
She still enjoys visiting family, but she is equally happy to return to
Nevada. Her son-in-law also enjoys traveling there, and together with her
daughter they usually visit every year or two. Several of her
grandchildren have also traveled to Battle Mountain. Two of them recently
spent two months there. María Jesús says they always cry when it is time to
leave because they enjoy life in Battle Mountain and the surrounding area so
much. Two of her brothers-in-law
also lived in Battle Mountain for many years, and their children visited
regularly as well. Both brothers-in-law have since passed away, one of them
after suffering a stroke. Family members in the
Basque Country constantly ask her when she plans to visit again. She admits,
however, that she has become reluctant to travel because the journey now
feels exhausting. "Some people sleep on
the plane," she laughs. "I can't. When I see someone sleeping, I
feel like giving them a punch!" Much of her family has
also changed over the years. Her parents and brothers have passed away, and
the grandchildren she left behind fifty years ago as small children are now
adults with lives of their own. She believes that many
people who remained in the Basque Country have developed what she calls a
"closed mentality." In her opinion, many find it difficult to see
beyond their own perspective. Some continue to dwell on political conflicts
dating back to Franco's dictatorship, but she no longer wishes to concern
herself with those issues. "Politicians don't
give ordinary people anything," she says. "What we get is drugs,
crime, and death." The conversation then
turns to religion. María Jesús believes that
priests have changed greatly over the years. When she was young, she says,
priests behaved with dignity and inspired respect. Today, however, she often
sees them dressed casually, "looking like ordinary people," and
believes that this has contributed to a decline in religious commitment. She
feels that similar changes have occurred in the United States. She also expresses concern
that the Church has become too permissive. Referring to Pope Francis without
naming him directly, she says that he sometimes allows too much freedom in
matters where, in her opinion, established rules should continue to be
observed. She is especially critical
of abortion, remarking that in some American states pregnancies can legally
be terminated very late. In her view, a child at that stage is already
capable of living outside the womb. "I don't think that's
right," she says firmly. "That's a crime." Because they watch both
American and Basque television, she believes she can clearly see the
differences in values and public attitudes between the two societies. She also recalls that not
every priest she encountered in the Basque Country served as a positive
example. Some clergy, she believes, damaged her confidence in the Church. As
a young woman riding horseback between villages, she deliberately altered her
routes to avoid passing certain priests whom she regarded as inappropriate in
their behavior toward women. By contrast, she remembers
one priest in particular, Don Pedro, as "a true priest." According to María Jesús,
priests should devote themselves to helping people rather than pursuing
romantic relationships or behaving in ways that undermine the respect
traditionally associated with their vocation. As a child, all religious
instruction in her village was conducted in Basque. The strongest pressure to
attend Mass and catechism came not from society but from within the family
itself. For the sake of harmony at home, everyone fulfilled their religious
obligations. Whenever she returns to
the Basque Country, she especially enjoys attending Mass in the church of
Lekeitio, which she considers one of the most beautiful churches she knows. She is less enthusiastic
about some changes she has observed in modern liturgy. In her opinion, the
introduction of accordions and certain popular musical styles into religious
services has diminished the sense of reverence that once characterized
Catholic worship. Her children—including her
son Aitor, now the sheriff of Elko County—and her grandchildren all continue
to attend Mass every Sunday, something that gives her great satisfaction. She recalls one amusing
family story from their early years in Battle Mountain. While driving with her
daughters, they passed a Mormon church. Wanting to tease the children, María
Jesús jokingly told them, "That's the devil's
church. Everyone in there has horns." The girls immediately
became frightened and began pulling one another away, determined that none of
them should accidentally enter the building. Laughing as she remembers
the incident, María Jesús adds that religious life in America is generally
lived with much greater freedom than in the Basque Country. People are not
criticized for attending—or failing to attend—church. She also praises the
willingness of local priests to help those in need and says that her own
family remains actively involved in parish life and charitable activities. They continue to pray
together regularly. One of her strongest
childhood memories is shelling corn at the family farmhouse while praying the
rosary every evening. Her lifelong love of
horses also accompanied her across the Atlantic. The family has owned
horses in Nevada for many years. María Jesús herself rode frequently when she
was younger and even jumped fences on horseback. She often took one of her
children with her, remembering those rides as some of the happiest moments of
family life. When she emigrated from
the Basque Country, she also brought several traditional farming tools with
her: a scythe, a whetstone, a pickaxe, and a wooden rake. Having grown up
using them, she found them useful for cutting hay and feeding horses in
Nevada. She had even hoped to
bring a traditional wooden yoke but worried that customs officials might
confiscate it. Those objects, she
explains, represented more than simple tools—they were a way of preserving
something of the farming life she had left behind. For many years, Battle
Mountain reminded her of Ereño. There were so many Basques and so much Basque
spoken in the streets that it often felt as though she had never left home. She recalls one memorable
occasion when she and a friend named Alberto drove to Winnemucca. A man was
selling ears of corn beside the road, and Alberto jokingly remarked, "Those are fit only
for cattle!" To their surprise, another
man standing nearby immediately replied in Basque, "I'd eat them
myself!" Only later did they
discover that he was another Basque sheepherder. Encounters like that were
common in those days. One could easily walk into a store and unexpectedly
meet another Basque speaker. She also knows Isidro
Etxeto, originally from Navarre, and his family in Winnemucca. He worked
installing telephone lines throughout the region. María Jesús says she has
always understood every variety of Basque she encountered—Navarrese, French
Basque, Bizkaian, and others. The only variety she still
struggles to understand, she admits with a smile, is Standard Basque
(Euskara Batua). Reflections María Jesús emerges from
her life story as a woman of remarkable initiative, resilience, and
generosity. As a young woman she chose to remain on the family farm to help
her parents while her brothers pursued other paths. Her lifelong love of
horseback riding gave her both confidence and independence, even helping her
avoid difficult situations during her youth. After her husband emigrated
to the United States, she spent several years raising their children alone
before eventually joining him in Nevada. Once in America, she not only built
a stable family life but also pursued employment that would provide long-term
financial security, carefully planning for retirement through public-sector
work. Throughout her years in
Battle Mountain she became deeply involved in the Basque community, offering
practical assistance whenever it was needed—from interpreting official
documents to organizing support for newly arrived immigrants and helping
repatriate the bodies or ashes of deceased Basques to their families in the
Basque Country. She has preserved a vivid
and expressive variety of Bizkaian Basque and strongly believes that Basque
traditions should continue to be maintained in the American West for as long
as possible. Perhaps most symbolically,
she brought with her from the family farmhouse not only practical farming
tools—a scythe, whetstone, pickaxe, and wooden rake—but also the rural values
and outlook that shaped her identity. Those humble objects became tangible
reminders of the world she left behind and of the cultural heritage she has
continued to preserve throughout her life in Nevada.
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Seberiana Munitibarren jaio zen Goikoetxebarri
baserrian 1953an, nahiz eta 1959 inguruan Mendatara joan ziren bizitzera.
19 urterekin emigratu zuen Ameriketara. Senarra, Antonio Basterretxea
Munitibartarra, Euskal Herrian ezagutu, harekin ezkondu eta emigratu egin
zuen berarekin. Gizonak lehenagotik hamar urte zeramatzan Ameriketan lanean.
Antonio, 1943an jaioa, 16 urterekin joan zen bere aitarekin eta beste hiru
anaiekin artzain moduan lan egitera Idahora. Antonioren aita oso goiz joan
zen Ameriketara artzain moduan, 1910.hamarkadan. Bueltatu zenean ezkondu egin
zen eta gerraostean berriro joan zen Ameriketara lau semeak eramanda. Han 3
urte egon ostean bueltan etorri zen Euskal Herrira andrea eta alabarengana
lau semeak han itxita. Seberiana Ameriketara joan zenean
lehenengo bere aita bisitatu zuen (hiru urte egin zituen han) eta gero handik
Renora joan ziren bizitzera, bere gizona eraikuntzara dedikatzen zen eta han
zegoelako lana. Handik ez da gehiagotan mugitu. Bertan etxea erosi eta bere etxean
auzoko umeak zaintzeko haurtzaindegi bat sortu zuen. Hango emakumeek etxetik
kanpora egiten zuten lan, bakoitzak bere ofizioan, eta umeak zaintzeko
norbait behar zuten. Ingelesik ez zekien Ameriketara ailegatzean, baina praktikarekin eta telebistarekin ikasi
zuen, gerora ingeles eskola batzuk ere jaso zituen. 1981ean Munitibarren
baserri bat erosi zuten han irabazitako diruarekin, sarritan etortzen ziren
bisitan jaioterrira eta. Hasieran arrotza egin zitzaion,
baina arin egokitu zen hango euskaldunekin eta “Zazpiak bat”en batzen
baitzen. Musean, euskal musika tresnak jotzen, euskal dantzak, euskal jakien
postuak jarriz, jaiak ospatzen zituzten. Etxean ere Euskal Herriko ohiturak
jarraitzen zituen (bazkariak, hizkuntza, erlijiotasuna...). Euskal Herrikoekin
kartaz edo telefonoz komunikatzen zen. Bost seme-alaba eduki zituen han, lau alaba eta azkena
mutila. Gizonak 1998an 55 urte bete eta jubilatzeko zegoela hil egin zen auto
istripu batean, bere aita ere gaixotu eta handik gutxira hil zen. Horrela, jaioterrira
bueltatu zen aitaren hiletara eta familiarekin egotera hiru hilabetez eta
bere bigarren senarra izango zenarekin hasi zen (bere betiko herriko laguna).
Hori izan zen berriro Euskal Herrira bueltatzeko arrazoia. Bere esanetan,
“gizon batek eraman zuen hara eta beste gizon batek ekarri zuen bueltan”. Lau
alabak Ameriketan bizi dira oraindik, adina zuten euren kabuz bizitzeko eta
hango etxean jarraitu zuten. Seme gaztea (5 urte zituen aita hil
zitzaionean), berriz, Munitibarrera etorri zen ikastera, eta ondoren,
batxilergoa egitera Ameriketara bueltatu zen, han bizi da gaur egun semea
ere.
Bueltatu zenean, Seberianak dionetik berdin-berdina
izaten jarraitzen zuen herrikoek bera Amerikanatzat zuten arren. Berarentzat
herriak berdin jarraitzen zuen. Herrian galdetu izan diote hango jai edo
tradizioen gainean hemen han egindakotik ikasteko asmoz. Ingelesa irakasteko
oportunitatea ere eduki zuen herrira bueltatzean baina berak nahiago zuen
denbora librea bere semea zaintzeko. Berarentzat bere etxea Renokoa da, han
ditu familiakoak gaur egun eta han ditu oroimen asko, gainera asko estimatzen
du han jaso zuen tratua, hango lagun eta auzokoak beti tratatu zutelako oso
ondo.
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The following account is
based on Seberiana Erleaga’s life story as a Basque immigrant in Reno,
Nevada. Seberiana was born in 1953
at the Goikoetxebarri farmhouse in Munitibar, Bizkaia. Around
1959, however, her family moved to Mendata, where she spent much of
her childhood. She emigrated to the United
States at the age of nineteen. She had met her future
husband, Antonio Basterretxea, also from Munitibar, in the Basque
Country. After marrying him, she emigrated with him to America. Antonio had already spent
ten years working in the United States by that time. Born in 1943, he
had gone to Idaho at the age of sixteen with his father and three of his
brothers to work as a sheepherder. Antonio’s father had first
emigrated to America as a shepherd at a very young age, sometime during the
1910s. After returning to the Basque Country, he married. During the postwar
period, however, he went back to America, taking his four sons with him. After spending three years
there, the father returned to the Basque Country to rejoin his wife and
daughter, leaving the four boys behind in the United States. When Seberiana first
arrived in America, she visited her own father, who had spent three years
there. Afterwards, she and Antonio moved to Reno, where they settled
permanently. Antonio worked in
construction, and Reno offered steady employment in that sector. They eventually purchased
a home there, and Seberiana established a small childcare business in the
house, looking after neighborhood children. Many local women worked
outside the home in a variety of occupations and needed someone to care for
their children during the day. Seberiana’s home therefore became an important
source of practical support for families in the neighborhood. She spoke no English when
she arrived in the United States. She learned gradually
through daily practice and by watching television. Later, she also attended
several English-language classes. In 1981, using
money they had earned in America, Seberiana and Antonio purchased a farmhouse
in Munitibar. They returned frequently to visit their native village and
maintain their ties with the Basque Country. At first, life in America
felt unfamiliar to her, but she adapted quickly. One important reason was
the presence of the local Basque community and her participation in the Zazpiak
Bat Basque Club. There, Basques gathered to
play mus, perform traditional music, dance, prepare stalls offering Basque
food, and celebrate community festivals. Seberiana also preserved
Basque customs within her own home through food, language, religious
practices, and everyday family traditions. She remained in contact
with relatives and friends in the Basque Country by letter and telephone. Seberiana had five
children in the United States: four daughters, followed by a son. In 1998, just as
Antonio was approaching retirement at the age of fifty-five, he was killed in
a car accident. At almost the same time,
Seberiana’s father became seriously ill and died shortly afterwards. She therefore returned to
her native village for her father’s funeral and remained there for three months
to be with her family. During that period, she
began a relationship with the man who would become her second husband, a
lifelong friend from the village. That relationship
ultimately became the reason she returned permanently to the Basque Country. As she expresses it: “One man took me there,
and another man brought me back.” Her four daughters
remained in the United States. They were already old enough to live
independently and continued living in the family home. Her youngest son, however,
was only five years old when his father died. He moved with Seberiana to
Munitibar and attended school there. Later, he returned to the
United States to complete high school and continues to live there today. After returning to
Munitibar, Seberiana felt that she herself had remained essentially
unchanged, even though people in the village regarded her as “the American.” From her perspective, the
village also seemed much the same as before. Local residents sometimes
asked her about celebrations and traditions in Nevada, hoping to learn from
activities organized by the Basque community there. She was also offered the
opportunity to teach English after returning to the village. She declined,
however, because she preferred to devote her free time to caring for her son. Despite having returned to
Bizkaia, Seberiana considers Reno her true home. Her children and other
relatives continue to live there, and many of her most important memories are
connected to the city. She is especially grateful
for the way she was treated in Nevada. Her friends and neighbors,
she says, always treated her with great kindness. For that reason, Reno
remains not simply the place where she lived, but the place where she built
her family, found community, and experienced a deep sense of belonging.
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Jose Mari Beristain Bengoetxea[1]
[1] Jose Mari Beristain ere elkarrizketa egin eta hilabete batzuetara zendu
zen. Goian bego. Bere lekukotza jasotzeko aukeragatik oso eskertuta gaude.
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José Mari Beristain
(Markina, Bizkaia)
Jose Mari Beristain
1945ean jaio zen Markinan. Jose Marik urte bi zituenean aita (Juan Beristain)
Ameriketara joan zen Idahora artzain modura lan egitera Astorkian. Bere aitak
6 urte egin ostean Green card lortu zuen eta familia erreklamatu zituen
Ameriketara beragana joan zitezen. Jose Marik 12 urte zituela emigratu zuen
Ameriketara neba arrebekin eta amarekin, 1957an. Gogoratzen du pozik eta
ilusioarekin abiatu zirela Ameriketara, Gooding-era (Idaho). Ingelesa eskolan
oso azkar ikasi zuten hirurek eta lagunak ere erraz egin zituzten. Goodinetik Elkora
(Nevada) mugitu ziren, aita hotel baten hasi zen lanean eta ama euskaldunen
restaurantean (Nevada hotel). Soldadutza egiten
boluntario hasi zen Jose Mari. Hiru urte egin zituen marinan eta urte bete
Vietnamen bertako gerrara bidali zuten. Bere amak egunero errezatzen zeuen
beragatik eta horri eskerrak bueltatu zela onik dio. Oso gogorra izan zen
Vietnamen. Enboskadatatik irtetzen zenean trankil sentitzen zen. “Pago de
convates” ematen zioten, eta soldadutzatik irten zenean, irabazitako
diruarekin, Markina eta Ondarrura joan zen sei hilabeterako: “los seis
mejores meses de mi vida” izan zirela dio. 10 urte igaro ziren bere
jaioterria utzi zuela eta berarentzat oso berezia izan zen gerratik
bueltatutzean urte luze horien ondoren berriro ere Euskal Herrian egotea. Ameriketako
suhiltzaileek deitu egiten zioten bertara lanera joan zedin, aurretiaz,
eskolan zebilenean, bertan basoko suteak itzaltzen ibili baitzen. Horrela
bueltatu zen eta Renoko unibertsitatera hasi zen. Renon zegoela
bertako emakume batekin ezkondu zen. Lana eskaini zioten Las Vegasen eta bertara mugitu ziren
elkarrekin eta hiru seme alaba izan zituzten bertan.. Las Vegasen Igerilekuen
eraikuntzan egin zuen lan eta 44 urte eman ditu horretan. Komentatzen du Las
Vegas hiria asko handitu eta aldatu dela bera bertan bizi izan den denboran. Gurasoak Ondarrura
bueltatu ziren, amak beti nahi izan zuen Euskal Herrira bueltatu. Anaia Ameriketan gelditu zen eta bertan
zendu ere. Arreba, ordea, Ondarrura bueltatu zen gurasoekin eta bertan
ezkondu.
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José Mari Beristain (Markina, Bizkaia) The following account is based on José Mari Beristain’s life story as a
Basque immigrant in the United States. José Mari Beristain was born in 1945 in Markina, Bizkaia. When he was only two years old, his father, Juan Beristain,
emigrated to the United States to work as a sheepherder near Gooding,
Idaho. After spending six years there, Juan obtained a Green Card and
petitioned for his family to join him in America. As a result, José Mari emigrated to the United States in 1957, at
the age of twelve, together with his mother and siblings. He remembers leaving for America full of excitement and optimism. The family settled in Gooding, Idaho, where the three children
quickly learned English at school and had little difficulty making friends. Some time later, the family moved to Elko, Nevada. There, his father found work in a hotel, while his mother was employed at
the Nevada Hotel, one of the Basque boardinghouses and restaurants
that served the local Basque community. As a young man, José Mari volunteered for military service. He spent three years in the United States Navy, including one
year in Vietnam during the Vietnam War. His memories of the conflict remain vivid. He recalls that his mother prayed for him every day and believes that
those prayers helped him return home safely. Vietnam, he says, was an extremely harsh experience. Whenever he managed to survive an ambush, he felt an overwhelming sense
of relief. Because he served in a combat zone, he received combat pay, an
additional allowance granted to military personnel serving under dangerous
conditions. When he completed his military service, he used the money he had earned
to spend six months in Markina and Ondarroa. Looking back, he describes that visit as “the six best months of my life.” Ten years had passed since he had left his homeland. Returning to the Basque Country after surviving the war made the
experience especially meaningful and emotional. Before entering the Navy, José Mari had worked as a firefighter while
still attending school, helping to extinguish forest fires. Because of that previous experience, American fire departments encouraged
him to return to firefighting after completing his military service. Instead, however, he decided to enroll at the University of Nevada,
Reno. While living in Reno, he married an American woman. Later, he was offered employment in Las Vegas, where the couple
settled and raised three children. José Mari spent the next forty-four years working in the swimming
pool construction industry. During those decades he witnessed the extraordinary transformation of Las
Vegas. The city, he explains, grew enormously and changed beyond recognition
during the years he lived there. Eventually, his parents returned permanently to Ondarroa. His mother had always wished to go back to the Basque Country. His brother remained in the United States, where he later passed away. His sister, on the other hand, returned to Ondarroa with their parents,
married there, and settled permanently in the Basque Country.
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NAFARRAK
Jesus Goñi Tellechea, (Oronoz, Baztan, 1947an sortua)
(Zoe
Bray-k egindako erretratua. Zoe Bray akademiko eta artista euskalduna da,
Nafarroa Beherean hazitakoa eta gaur egun Renon, Nevadan, bizi da) // Portrait
of Jesús Goñi by Zoe Bray, a Basque scholar and artist raised in Lower Navarre
and currently based in Reno, Nevada.
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Jesús Goñi (Part 1)
Renon egin genion
elkarrizketa, euskaraz, 2021eko azaroaren 20an. Barbereneko bordan,
1947an, sortu zen. Hiru anaia izan ziren, bi anaia eta arreba
bat. Aitatxi artzaina zen eta mutikotan Jesus tematuta zegoen artzaintzan
segitzeko. Bi urtetatik aitatxik eskutan hartuta errestan eramaten zuen
arditara, gogoratzen duenez. Aita ere bertsotan aritzen zen, herrian eta
tabernetan, bertso zaharrak kantatzen, batez ere. Handik sortu zitzaion
bertsolari izateko zaletasuna.
10-12 urte zituelarik ezagutu zituen auzoko
batzuk Kubara joanak: Bernardo, Agustin izenak gogoratzen ditu. Ikusten
zituen gaban handi batekin eta puruak erretzen zebiltzala (puru erdiak
botatzen zituzten, oparotasunaren seinale). Horietako batek bost pezetako
zilarrezko txanpon bat eman zion Jesus Goñiri, eta asko harritu zen adin eta
sasoi hartan. Abioia edo hegazkina Baztan gainean pasatzen zelarik berak eta
beste haur batzuek “adios, Bernardo, adios, Bernardo” aritzen ziren esaten.
Orduantxe sartu zitzaion “Ameriketara” delako ideia. Amatxik ere esaten zion,
“bai, ari haiz gogor lan egiten, baina badakik zer egin behar duen?: Segitzak
Ameriketara hemendik, han duk dolarra, ta horrekin hobeki biziko haiz!”
Gaztetxotan etxeko ardiekin ibiltzen zen,
bazka ematen eta jezten. Gero 15 urterekin kontrabandoan hasi zen beste bati
laguntzen eta paketeak pasatzeagatik 50 duro edo hogerleko ematen zizkioten
(lanposturik onenean 20 duro irabazten zuen egunean). Gero gehixeago eta
denboraren buruan 100 duro irabazteraino heldu zen (gaueko lanean). Hiru urte
egin zituen “langintza” horretan, nahiz eta amak esaten zion: “Harrapatuko
ditek!”. Gero bere kontura hasi zen gaueko lanean eta egunez bi mila pezeta
irabazteraino heldu zen (hirurogeiko hamarkadan, soldaduskara joan aitzin). Urte gutxi batzuk igarota, hamazazpi urte
zituelarik “gaueko lanaren” etekinak hasi ziren apaltzen eta, ikusirik
Baztanen “garra” handi bat zegoela Ameriketara joateko, Ameriketara etortzea[1]
(edo joatea) erabaki zuen Arizonara, hiru-lau urterako, 1970era arte. Gero
Idahon 10 urte eman zituen, Rupert[2] aldean
neguan eta eta Wyoming-go mugan uda partean. Bertsotan nola hasi zen ere kontatzen du
hasieran. Afarietan (berak 14 urte zituelarik) ikusten zuen jendeak bertsoak
kantatzen zituela eta lagun batek zirikaturik hasi zen lehenengo bertsoak
botatzen. Elizondoko plazan ikusitako lehenengo bertsolariak zirela-eta, bertso bat egin zuen. Amari esan zion,
“badakit bertsoa egiten”, amak “nola jakingo duk?”, baietz eta bat bota zuen.
Harrez geroztik afaritan eta festetan hasi zen kantatzen. Gero Mariano Izeta
(1915-2001), kultura eragilea eta euskaltzalea, San Pedro jaietan bertso
saioak antolatzen hasi zen (Erratzun). Mixel Aire (Xalbadorren semea) eta
Alkat zena ekarri zituen eta Jesusek haiekin kantatu zuen, lehenengo plaza
egiten. Ameriketara “etorrita”, Miguel Ibarra
(sunbildarra, bertsozalea) hasten zen Txirritaren bertsoak kantatzen eta
bertso haiei buelta ematen zien, “berritan” (bat-bateko bertsoak asmatuta). Washingtonen egon ostean erabaki zuen Idahora
joatea. Han bizkaitar askorekin izan zen. Jesus Urkidi izan zuen bertsolagun
eta entzule euskaldun asko izaten zituen bere saioetan. Harrezkero Euskal
Herrira bisitan joaten zen bakoitzean hilabete pare bat pasatzen zuen eta han
ere bertsotan ibiltzen zen. Elkon “Kaxiano” apeza ezagutu zuen eta han,
“euskal” meza ospatzen zuelarik bi bertso edo botatzen zituen. Mezetan
bertsoak botatzen hasi eta Johny Kurutxet eta Martin Goikoetxea ezagutu
zituen. Pic-nic-etan hasi ziren bertsotan aritzeko eta horrela hasi zen
mugitzen eta kantatzen hainbat lekutan. Esan bezala, udetan Euskal Herrian
Azpillaga, Lazkao Txiki eta hainbat bertsolarirekin aritu zen bertsotan.
Ameriketara Egaña, Arzallus, Maialen, Julio Soto eta bertze asko (atzendu
zaizkio) etorri izan dira. Gero Elkon “Cow Boy Poetry” besta handia egiten da
eta, nahiz eta bakeroak eta artzainak ez ziren ongi konpontzen, bertso eta
poesiaren bidez zenbait saiotan “elkartu” edo “berradiskidetu” egin ziren,
duela urte gutxiko saio batean (Maialen Lujanbio ere etorri zen). Bestela
Martin eta bera hiru urtez aritu dira “Cow Boy Poetry-n” ekitaldian Elkon. Urte batean (2004 urtea izan zitekeen)
Washington-era joateko gonbitea jaso zuten. Beste urte batean “United
Nations-en”, New York-en aritu zen bera eta beste hiru “Basque-American”
bertsotan kantatzen. Mundu osoko “herri-poeten” bilkura izan zen, Ameriketara
inmigrante etorritakoak izaten ziren protagonistak. Idahoko Sun Valley-n ere
beste artzain askorekin batera (Errusiarrak, Txiletarrak, eta abar) kantatu
zuten. Txiletarrek, adibidez, musika instrumentuekin kantazen zuten
(gitarrekin eta). Martinek eta berak, hori ikusirik (eta modu “idorrean”
kantatzea ez zela komeni oharturik), Boisen zeuden trikitilari eta pandero
jotzaile bati esan zieten jotzeko trikiti doinu batzuk bertsotan egiteko, eta
halaxe agin zuten. Arrakastatsua izan zen saio hura. Kontua da Jesus ez dela geldi egon eta ez
zuen pentsatzen Ameriketan hainbestetan bertsotan ibiliko zenik. Euskal
bilkuretan poza pixka bat jartzen ahalegindu da. Gardnervillen txapelketa bat
izan zen eta bera “jarri” zuten txapeldun. Bertsoari esker, bere ustez bere
bizia ederra izan da, jende asko ezagutu du eta ez zuen hori espero
(Ameriketara joan orduko). Arizonan (bertako unibertsitatean) ere (indioen
erreserban) kantatu izan du: lehendabiziko bertsolaria izan da indioen
erreserba horretan kantatu duena. Indioek ba omen zekiten “koplak” egiten
(euren hizkuntzan) eta haiekin kopletan ibili izan da. Joxe Mallea interprete (itzultzaile) lanetan
ibili da askotan (entzuleak euskaldunak ez ziren ekitaldietan). Gustora ikusten du bere ibilbidea, batez ere,
“hemengo” euskaldunendako utzi dutelako testigantza bat bertsotan. Euskal
Herrian nortzuk izan ziren bertsolariak (Pello Errota, Txirrita eta
Xenpelar…) askotan jakin nahi duten bezala, Ameriketan ere nortzuk izan ziren
bertsolariak ere garbi geratuko da gerorako, etorkizunerako. Orain, covid dela-eta, “gitxi”[3]
edo kasik batez, ez dira ibiltzen, baina beti dago zerbait: duela gutxi
Nevadako Unibertsiatean, euskal artzainari eskainitako estatua bat jarri
dutela-eta, bertso batzuk bota zituen. Ameriketara 1965eko abuztuan etorri zen.
Herriko bestak ziren eta Ameriketara joateko punttu-punttu zegoelarik Goardia
Zibilen pareja bat etorri zitzaion baserrira. Ezagunak zituen Jesusek eta
irriz hasi ziren baserrira heldu baino lehen: “¡Eh, chico! ¡Las fiestas tuyas ya se jodieron!”. “¿Qué pasa?”.
“Pasado mañana te vas para América”. Eta hiru besta-egun galdu zituen.
Paperak Ana-Mari Marinekin egin zituen. Etorri ziren zenbat irabaziko zuten
eta deus jakin gabe. Penik ez du izan, arditan hasieran pixka bat gogorra
izan zen arren, zenbait lekutan. Ardiak
maite zituen eta horregatik ez zitzaion hain gogorra egin. Lanbide onak izan ditu
Estatu Batuetan, bere aburuz. Euskal Herrian, berriz, fabrika batean sartzeko
langile bat hil behar zen (lanpostu “libre” bat sortzeko): horrek ez zuen
gustuko; alegia, lanpostu bat izateko pertsona batek hil behar izatea ez zuen
ontzat ematen. Hala eta guztiz, urte batean esperoan egon
zen gogaitu zen arte. Ameriketara joan eta aste baten buruan Lesakako
fabrikan sartzeko gonbitea jaso zuen, baina ez zuen onartu. Ohartu zen
“Euskal Herria” ez zela beretako. Ameriketan aberastu ez, baina sakelerako
dirua egin eta bankurako ere egin du, eroso bizitzeko lain. Ameriketan
hainbat aukera daudela konturatzen da. “Bakero” (behiekin) ere ibili zen hiru urtez
(Rock Springs-en), lazoak botatzen, eta abar. Lazatzen oso “polito”[4]
ikasi zuen. Makinaria manejatzen han ikasi zuen arrantxotan. Arrantxo
horretan “karrerako” zaldiak zituzten eta atzera eta aurrera eramaten ibili
zen eta mundu hura polita izan zela iruditzen zaio. Gero “konstrukzionean” edo eraikuntzan sartu
zen eta hogeita sei urte eman zituen han, “unionean”[5]. Renon,
Nevadan. Ondo ordainduta omen zegoen eta orain “union-eko” erretiroa gehi
laneko “erretiroa”, biak, omen ditu eta ongi bizi da. Hamazazpi urte pasatu
dira erretiratu zela. Erretiro hartuta jeep moduko bat erosi zuen eta,
Idahon, Montanan, Wyoming, eta hainbat lekutan ibili da, arrantzan eta anitz
lekutan. Zorteduntzat du bere burua eta Euskal Herrian
izan ez duen “zortea” izan du Ameriketan, bere ustez. Antonio Aguilar kantariarekin konparatzen du
bere burua. Lagun batek esan omen zion “kantu españolak” uzteko eta
“rancherekin” hasteko. Kasu egin zion eta arrakastatsu bilakatu zen. Bere ustez, euskaldunek euskal diasporaren
berri izateko onena dute Ameriketara etortzea. Ez da berdin entzun eta bertan
ikustea bezala. Euskal Herria oso txikia da terrenotan, eta malda asko ditu,
eta baserriko lana oso egoera zailean omen dago. Labrantzako lanetan ez dago
etorkizunik, bere ustetan. Baserrian bazuten lan pilaka (artojorra, behiak
jeitzi, ohatzeak egin…, beti lana, jateko lain bai, baina askoz gehiagorik
ez), baina ez zuten sosik egiten ahal. Hemen, berriz, leku zelaia da,
makinaria eta animaliak sartzeko eta erraz egiteko lanak. “Baserriko lanak
konparaziorik ez, ez du irauten ahal”. Gero Euskal Herrian jarrera
kritikoagoa somatzen du besteekiko: besteen bizitzan sartzeko joera dago eta
hori ez du ikusten AEBetan. Euskal Herrian utziko bazuten libre etortzea
AEBetara asko etorriko ziren eta ez ziren itzuliko, aukera asko daudelako
lanbideetan sartzeko. Beste euskaldunekiko izan dituen harremanak
direla-eta, “bizkaitarrekin beurek bezala mintzatzen” dela esaten du.
Bertsotan ere Iparraldeko hitzak (eta esalmoldeak), Nafarroakoak,
bizkaitarrenak… biltzen eta erabiltzen jakin behar da, ulertua izateko.
“Aritzen bazara Baztango euskara hutsekin bizkainoek ez dute ulertuko […]
Dena nahasiak ikasibiozu gero denak konplazitzeko”. Esan izan diote
bizkaitarrek bere euskara erraz konprenitzen dutela. Jonhy Kurutxeten
euskara, berriz, ez dute horren erraz ulertzen, ezbaitu “apurtu”
Esterenzubiko euskara; alegia, euskara-aldaera horretatik kanpora ez dela
aritzen. Gaur egungo batuan, berriz, ez da eroso sentitzen, hitz asko ez
baititu ulertzen. Berak “euskara zaharra” darabilelako inpresioa dauka. Bat-batean ibiltzeaz gain, bertsoak jartzen
ibiltzen da (grabazioak egiten ditu, idatziz ez). Gaur egungo gaiak (covid-a,
adibidez), edo enkarguz (ospakizunen bat dela-eta), edo Mari Trini izena zuen
prostituta bati (Nevadan garai batean ezaguna)… Idaztea ez zaio gustatzen ez
baita sekula konforme egoten paratu duenarekin (beti dauka zerbait zuzendu
edo aldatu beharra), beti bat-batean aritzen da, horretara dauka prest bere
burua. Doinuak direla-eta, entzundako grabazioak
(Mattin, Xalbador, Uztapide, Azpillaga…) eta eurek erabilitako doinuak, hori
zen euren eskola. “Berezkoa” behar omen duzu izan afizionea eta arreta jarri
nola egiten zituzten errimak eta horrela. Doinuak zortzikoak izaten dira
gehienak berak erabilitakoak. Bederatzitakoak agurretan bakarrik. Oraingo
txapelketetan hain bertso luzeak burutan hatzeko zailak direla deritzo.
Gaztetan entzundako bertsoak (Azpillaga edo Xalbadorri) burutan geratzen
zitzaizkion, baina gaur egun hain bertso luzeak ez zaizkio buruan geratzen. Gaiak ere
ematen omen dituzte “arront arraroak” (arrunt raruak), politika gehiago,
historia kontuak ere bai… Lehenagoko gaiak politagoak zirela uste du,
herrikoiagoak zirelako: ezkondu berriei, amona zahar bati, edo baserriaren
gainean… gaiak “naturalagoak” ziren, bere ustetan, eta bertsoak ederrak
izaten ziren, herriko usaina zutelakoz. Irri egiteko bertsoak ere egiten
saiatzen da. AEBetan dagoen “publikoak”,
bertsolaritzarenak, gustukoak ditu artzaintzari lotutako gaiak: “zu ardi
nagusia zara eta zu artzaina” eta elkarri sekulakoak botatzeko gaia izaten da
ongi etorria. Edo ezkontzaren gainean, adibidez, zu india batekin ezkondu
zara eta horrelakoak. Gai politikoak “hemengo” jendea ez ditu maite. Elkar
zirikatzea: hori du jendeak maite. Bere arma beti izan da bertsotan txiste
pixka bat jartzea, jendeari irri eragiteko, beti serio ibiliz gero jendeak ez
du gozatzen. Johny eta biak ari dira beti “ttaka-ttaka” eta jendea irriz
paratzen da. Hiletetan ere tokatu izan zaio kantatzea. Ez
da gogoratzen Ameriketan noiz edo non sortu zen ohitura hori (bertsotan
egitearena hileta batean). Hasieran pixka bat gogorra egiten zitzaion, baina
bertsolari izanda, burua prestatzen du, bizi zelarik pertsona horren historia
kontatuz eta orain errazago egiten zaio. Zailagoa egin zitzaion bere
lehengusuaren hiletan kantatzea tokatu zitzaionean. Urteen poderioz distantziekin aritzea
kostatzen zaiola ohartzen da. Inoiz Chinon kantatu, hegazkina goizeko 8etan
hartu (gau pasa eginda?), Renora heldu, arropa aldatu eta segituan lanera
joan izan da. Izan du tentazioa ezetz esaten hasteko (norbaitek proposatzen
dionean bertsotan aritzeko), baina “afizionea” barrutik duenez gero, askotan
baietz esaten du azkenean: “ez duzu ezetz erraten ahal”. Behin sartuz gero
“mundu” horretan ez dago ateratzerik. Afari arrunt batean, euskaldunik bada
eskatuko diote pare bat bertso botatzeko, baina pare bat bota ordez hamabi
edo gehiago botako ditu. Euskaldunei bertsoaren gozamena eskaintzen saiatu
da, baina ez da erraza izan, euskaldunekin egoteko distantzia handiak korritu
behar izan dituelako. Batzuetan entzuleen artean “amerikanoak”[6]
egoten dira entzuten eta bukaeran esaten diote “ez dugu ulertu zer kantatu
duzun baina “aire” politak erabili dituzu” eta esku zartak jotzen dituzte. Ameriketan bizi naiz eta ni’re nahiz euskalduna Euskal Herrian nik utzi nitun nik ere hainbat laguna Ene bizian ere askontan izaten dut galde modu dena nola gu hemen bizi geraden askok jakin nahi dutena onena izain da euskalduna bertara etorrita dana. Jesusek dio
bera egunero aritzen dela bertsotan, bere buruarekin. Txori bat ikusi
eta bertso bat botako dio. Bidean, kotxean ere hasiko da bertsoak kantatzen
eta hamar-hamabi segituan botako ditu. Puntuak ere bere buruari paratzen
dizkio. Beti prest dago: dela lagun baten puntuari erantzuteko, jatetxe
batean (Renoko Santa Fe jatetxea aipatzen du) dagoelarik bertsotan aritzeko.
Duela gutxira arte Reno aldean eta Garnevillen ere elkartzen ziren euskaldun
mordoak. Orain zahartuta askoz gutxiago. Haien ondorengoak, hemen jaiotako
euskal jatorriko amerikar gehienek ez dakite euskaraz (nahiz eta euskal
pic-nicetan biltzen diren): gazte horiek ezezagunak egiten zaizkio, urtean
behin gehienez ikusten dituelako. Ingles egiten dute gehiago euskara baino.
Bertsolariak “ateratzeko” edo bertsozalea izateko behar da euskara ondo
jakin. Berak uste du Ameriketatik ez dela bertsolaririk sortuko, “handik”
(Euskal Herritik) etorri behar da norbait. Kantatzen, berriz, asko aritzen
dira (2. belaunaldikoak) euskaraz kantu zaharrak kantatzen, eta oso ongi,
gainera, Chinon eta Boise-n, adibidez. Aipatzen du bere lagun euskaldun baten alaba
aizkoran (eta motozerran) lehiaketa asko irabazitakoa dela. Bera (Jesus)
ibili da neska hori entrenatzen. “Marka” hori ere historikotzat hartzen du.
Txingak eramaten (herri-kirol bat) ere ibiltzen dira Nevadako batzuk.
Dantza-taldeak ere badira asko. Zentzu horretan, Jesusek uste du gauza horiei
eutsiko dietela bolada batez, baina bertsoen munduari ez, entzule gero eta
gutxiago direlako. Ameriketan bertsolari berririk ez da izango, Euskal
Herritik etorri ezean. San Franciscotik etorri zitzaion gazte bat esanez
bertsolariak atera nahi zituela eta haiei eskola eman: aholku eske etorri
zitzaion, ingelesez. Jesusek galdetu zion ea euskararik ba ote zekien eta
ezetz. Orduan nola aterako “duzu” bertsolaririk? “I am gonna try” erantzun
zion, baina euskaraz jakin ezean ezinezkotzat jotzen du Jesusek. Euskaldunak
gertuago (bata bestearengandik) biziko balira akaso aterako litzateke
bertsolariren bat, baina distantziak tarteko, oztopo handia da. Teknologia
berriei esker gaur egungo bertsolarien “boza” eta irudia ikusteko aukera
izaten da eta horrek laguntzen du bertso-mundua gertuagotik jarraitzeko.
Berak ere grabatzen ditu bertsoak eta bidali lagunei. Aita eta ama etorri zitzaizkion eta berrogei
egun egon ziren segituan (1986an edo 87an, ez du ongi gogoratzen). Harritu
omen ziren alor handiak eta alfalfa zelaiak ikusita. Elkarrizketan Jesus Goñik erakutsi du bere
berbaldiaren jarioa oparoa dela eta hainbat konturi buruz eginak dituela bere
gogoetak. Gogoeta asko (gehienak akaso) euskaraz egiteko ohitura gorde du,
neurri handi batean bertsolaritza landu duelako bere bizitzan, eta hori
islatzen da. Hori bai, ahoskotasun edo oralitatean bizi du dena Jesus Goñik:
berarengana heldu den (euskal) kultura ahoz etorri zaio, eta berak
berrelaboratu du hori guztia eta transmititu egin beti ahoz. Bere
bertsogintzak hori bera islatzen du, ez baitzaio ezagutzen bertso bat bera
ere berak idatzia: denak ahoz botatakoak izan dira. Artzaintza, abeltzaintza,
eraikuntza… bera ibilitako lanbideetan jakin izan du aldez aurretik zekiena
bere langintza berrian aplikatzen, erabiltzen eta ongi joan zaio bere
alorretan. Ekonomikoki ere emaitza oparoa lortu du, nahiz eta milionarioa ez
izan, bi penstio oparorekin bizi delako egun. Ameriketako Estatu Batutetan
bertsolari izatea pribilegiotzat ikusten du, nahiz eta erraza ez dela
ohartzen den. Ameriketan, bestalde, bere muga bitalak zabaldu egin direla
erakusten du eta hori positibotzat ikusten du: Euskal Herrian geratu izan
balitz ez zatekeen horrelakorik gertatuko bere bizitzan.
|
Jesús Goñi (Part 1) Interview conducted in Reno, Nevada, in Basque on November 20, 2021. Jesús Goñi was born in 1947 at Barbereneko Borda, a farmhouse in the
Baztan Valley of Navarre. He grew up with two brothers and one sister. His grandfather was a shepherd, and from the time he was barely two years
old, Jesús accompanied him to the sheep. He recalls being carried in his
grandfather's arms as they walked to the flock. From those earliest memories
he became determined to follow the same way of life. His father also loved bertsolaritza, the Basque tradition of
improvised verse. He often sang old bertsoak in village gatherings and local
taverns, and it was from listening to him that Jesús first developed a
fascination for becoming a bertsolari himself. When he was about ten or twelve years old, several men from the
neighborhood returned after spending years in Cuba. He remembers two of them
particularly well: Bernardo and Agustín. They wore elegant overcoats, smoked
expensive cigars, and, to the amazement of local children, casually threw
away half-smoked cigars as though they were of little value—a clear symbol of
prosperity. One of these emigrants handed young Jesús a five-peseta silver coin. At
that age, the gift left a lasting impression. Whenever an airplane flew over the Baztan Valley, Jesús and the other
children would wave toward the sky shouting, "Goodbye, Bernardo! Goodbye, Bernardo!" It was during those childhood years that the idea of America first took
root in his imagination. His mother encouraged the dream as well. "You're working hard," she would tell him, "but do you
know what you should do? Go to America. That's where the dollars are, and
you'll live much better there." As a boy, Jesús helped care for the family's sheep, feeding them and
milking them every day. At the age of fifteen he began working as a smuggler's assistant along
the Pyrenean border. His job consisted of carrying contraband packages across
the mountains at night. For each trip he earned fifty duros—far more
than the twenty duros a day's labor brought in the best local jobs. His earnings gradually increased. Eventually he was making one hundred duros
for a night's work. He remained in the smuggling trade for three years despite his mother's
repeated warnings. "They're going to catch you." Later he began working independently at night while holding a daytime job
as well. Before leaving for military service he recalls earning as much as
two thousand pesetas a day—a considerable income in Spain during the 1960s. By the time he was seventeen, however, profits from smuggling had begun
to decline. At the same time, a wave of emigration was sweeping through the
Baztan Valley. Seeing so many neighbors leaving for America, Jesús decided to do the
same. His original plan was to spend only three or four years in Arizona before
returning home around 1970. Life, however, unfolded differently. After Arizona he spent approximately ten years in Idaho, living near
Rupert during the winters and working near the Wyoming border during the
summer months. Jesús then recalls how he himself became a bertsolari. When he was about fourteen years old, he noticed that adults often sang
bertsoak during community dinners. Encouraged by one of his friends, he
decided to try improvising a few verses himself. After seeing several famous bertsolaris perform in the square at
Elizondo, he composed a verse inspired by the experience. Returning home, he proudly announced to his mother, "I know how to make bertsoak." His mother laughed. "How could you possibly know that?" Jesús immediately improvised a verse for her. From that moment onward, he began singing regularly at family meals,
local celebrations, and village festivals. Some years later, Mariano Izeta (1915–2001)—a well-known cultural
promoter and Basque language activist—began organizing bertsolaritza
performances during the San Pedro festivities in Erratzu. Izeta invited renowned bertsolaris such as Mixel Aire, better known as
Xalbador's son, and Alkhat. Jesús was given the opportunity to perform
alongside them, marking his first appearance on an official bertsolaritza
stage. After emigrating to the United States, he discovered that the tradition
continued among Basque immigrants. One of the people who most influenced him there was Miguel Ibarra,
originally from Sunbilla. Ibarra loved singing the classic verses of Txirrita
and often encouraged Jesús to improvise new responses built upon those
traditional compositions. Following a period in Washington State, Jesús moved to Idaho. There he lived among many Basques from Bizkaia. One of his closest
bertsolaritza companions was Jesús Urkidi, and he regularly performed before
enthusiastic Basque-speaking audiences. Whenever he returned to the Basque Country for visits, he typically
stayed for several months and continued singing bertsoak there as well. In Elko he met Father Kaxiano, who celebrated Mass in Basque.
During those services Jesús would often improvise two or three bertsoak. It was through these church performances that he became acquainted with
Johnny Kurutxet and Martin Goikoetxea. Soon afterward they began singing together at Basque picnics throughout
the American West, gradually expanding their performances to festivals and
community gatherings across the region. During his summer visits to the Basque Country, Jesús also had
opportunities to sing alongside celebrated bertsolaris such as Azpillaga and
Lazkao Txiki. Over the years many leading bertsolaris—including Andoni Egaña, Jon
Lopategi Arzallus, Maialen Lujanbio, Julio Soto, and numerous others—also
traveled to the United States, where Jesús shared the stage with them on
various occasions. (Part 2) As the years passed, Jesús became one of the best-known bertsolaris in
the Basque-American community. One of the highlights of his career came when he and several fellow
bertsolaris were invited to perform in Washington, D.C. A few years later he
also participated in an event at the United Nations in New York City,
where he joined three other Basque-American bertsolaris in a gathering of
folk poets from immigrant communities around the world. He also performed in Sun Valley, Idaho, together with shepherds and poets
from many different backgrounds, including Russian and Chilean immigrants. The Chilean performers accompanied their verses with guitars and other
musical instruments. Observing how effective this was, Jesús and Martin
Goikoetxea realized that simply singing bertsoak without instrumental
accompaniment might seem rather austere to non-Basque audiences. They
therefore asked musicians from Boise who played the trikitixa (Basque
diatonic accordion) and tambourine to accompany some of their performances. The experiment proved highly successful. Looking back, Jesús says he never imagined that bertsolaritza would
become such an important part of his life in America. Through bertsoak he tried to bring joy to Basque gatherings wherever he
performed. At a festival in Gardnerville he was declared the winner of a
bertsolaritza competition. More importantly, he believes that bertsolaritza enriched his life beyond
anything he could have imagined before emigrating. It introduced him to
countless people and opened doors that otherwise would never have existed. He also had the opportunity to perform at the University of Arizona,
including an event held on a Native American reservation. To his knowledge, he was the first bertsolari ever to perform there. The Native Americans already had their own tradition of composing
improvised verses in their own language, and Jesús recalls exchanging poetic
improvisations with them during the event. Many of these performances required interpretation for audiences
unfamiliar with Basque. Joxe Mallea frequently served as translator, making Jesús's improvised
verses accessible to English-speaking listeners. When he reflects on his career, Jesús says he feels deeply satisfied. Above all, he believes that he and his fellow bertsolaris have left an
important testimony for future generations of Basques in America. Just as people in the Basque Country remember earlier masters such as
Pello Errota, Txirrita, and Xenpelar, he hopes that future generations will
also know who the bertsolaris of the American diaspora were. The COVID-19 pandemic temporarily brought many activities to a halt, but
performances never disappeared entirely. Not long before the interview, for example, he improvised several
bertsoak during the dedication of a monument honoring Basque sheepherders at
the University of Nevada. Jesús emigrated to the United States in August 1965. His departure coincided with the village festivals. Just as preparations were reaching their height, two members of the Civil
Guard unexpectedly arrived at his family's farmhouse. They knew Jesús personally and were laughing before they even reached the
house. "Hey, kid! Your fiestas are over!" "What do you mean?" Jesús asked. "The day after tomorrow you're leaving for America." As a result, he missed the final three days of the festivities. His immigration paperwork had been arranged through Ana Mari Marín. Neither he nor the other emigrants had any clear idea of what they would
earn once they reached America. Even so, he has never regretted the decision. Life as a shepherd was demanding during the first years, particularly in
certain isolated camps, but because he genuinely loved sheep, the work never
felt unbearable. Looking back, he believes he enjoyed excellent occupations throughout his
working life in the United States. In the Basque Country, by contrast, he remembers that obtaining a
position in a factory often depended upon someone else retiring—or even
dying—before a vacancy became available. He found that reality deeply discouraging. He waited for an opportunity for nearly a year before finally giving up. Ironically, only one week after arriving in America, he received an offer
to work at a factory in Lesaka. By then, however, he had already decided not to return. "I realized," he says, "that the Basque Country wasn't for
me." He never became wealthy, but he earned enough to live comfortably and
even save money. America, he believes, offered opportunities that simply did not exist at
home. For three years he also worked as a cowboy near Rock Springs, Wyoming. He learned to throw a lasso with considerable skill and became proficient
at operating ranch machinery. The ranch specialized in breeding racehorses, and Jesús remembers
transporting them from place to place. Looking back, he recalls those years with great affection. Later he entered the construction industry. He spent twenty-six years working in unionized construction in Reno,
Nevada. The wages were excellent, and today he receives both his union pension
and his regular retirement pension. By the time of the interview he had already been retired for seventeen
years. Retirement allowed him to pursue another lifelong passion. He purchased a Jeep and traveled extensively throughout Idaho, Montana,
Wyoming, and many other parts of the American West, spending much of his time
fishing and exploring places he had always wanted to visit. He considers himself fortunate. In his opinion, the opportunities he found in America far exceeded
anything he could have expected had he remained in the Basque Country. To explain his own experience, he compares himself to the Mexican singer
Antonio Aguilar. A friend once advised Aguilar to abandon Spanish popular songs and devote
himself to ranchera music instead. He followed the advice and became enormously successful. Jesús believes something similar happened in his own life. Had he remained in Navarre, his path would likely have been very
different. For anyone wishing to understand the Basque diaspora, he believes there
is only one real solution: "Come to America." Reading about it or hearing stories, he says, can never compare with
experiencing it firsthand. He contrasts the geography of the Basque Country with that of the
American West. The Basque homeland is small, mountainous, and difficult to farm. Growing up, there was endless work on the family farm—hoeing cornfields,
milking cows, making hay—but despite all that labor there was almost no
opportunity to earn real money. The American West, by contrast, offered vast open landscapes where machinery
and livestock could be managed much more efficiently. "In the Basque Country," he says, "that kind of farming
simply can't survive." He also feels that people in the Basque Country tend to concern
themselves too much with the lives of others, whereas Americans generally
allow individuals greater personal freedom. Indeed, he believes that if people in the Basque Country had been free to
emigrate without restrictions, many more would have done so—and few would
have chosen to return. (Part 3) Reflecting on the Basque community in the United States, Jesús explains
that one of the keys to communicating successfully through bertsolaritza
has been adapting his language to a diverse audience. He jokes that he can speak to Basques from Bizkaia "as though he were
one of them." A bertsolari in America, he argues, cannot rely exclusively on the
dialect of his own valley. Instead, he has learned to combine vocabulary and
expressions from Navarre, Bizkaia, the French Basque Country, and other
regions so that everyone can understand. "If you sing only in the Basque of Baztan," he says,
"people from Bizkaia won't understand you. You have to mix everything
together so everyone feels included." Many Bizkaians have told him that they find his Basque easy to
understand. By contrast, he remarks that Johnny Kurutxet has always remained faithful
to the Basque spoken in his native village of Esterenzubi, making his
language more difficult for many listeners outside the Northern Basque
Country. Jesús also admits that he does not feel entirely comfortable using Standard
Basque (Euskara Batua) because many of its words are unfamiliar to him. "I speak the old Basque," he says with a smile. Besides improvising, Jesús also composes bertsoak for specific occasions.
Rather than writing them down, however, he records them orally. Some deal with current events, such as the COVID-19 pandemic; others are
commissioned for celebrations or tributes. At one point he even composed
verses about a well-known Nevada prostitute named Mari Trini. He dislikes writing because he is never satisfied with what he has put on
paper. "There is always something I'd want to change." Improvisation, he explains, has always been his natural medium. His musical education came almost entirely through listening. Recordings of legendary bertsolaris such as Mattin, Xalbador, Uztapide,
and Azpillaga became his true school. From them he learned melodies, rhyme
schemes, and the subtle techniques of improvisation. Above all, he believes that becoming a bertsolari requires an innate
passion. One must pay close attention to how the great masters built their rhymes
and developed their ideas. Most of the melodies he uses belong to the traditional zortziko
meter. Longer melodies are reserved almost exclusively for farewell verses. Watching today's bertsolaritza championships, however, he sometimes feels
that performances have become too long and intellectually demanding. When he was young, he could easily remember entire performances by
Azpillaga or Xalbador. Today's bertsoak, he says, are so long that they are difficult even to
remember afterward. He also feels that modern topics have changed considerably. Politics, history, and highly abstract themes now dominate many
competitions. In his opinion, earlier subjects were more appealing because they emerged
naturally from everyday rural life. Newly married couples, elderly grandmothers, life on the farm—those were
the kinds of themes that produced memorable bertsoak. "They smelled of the village," he says. Humor has always occupied an important place in his own performances. Among Basque audiences in the American West, he has found that themes
connected with shepherding are especially popular. One performer may be assigned the role of the shepherd and the other that
of the lead ewe, giving both an opportunity to exchange playful insults. Similarly, audiences enjoy comic situations involving marriage—for
example, pretending that one bertsolari has married a Native American woman. Political subjects, by contrast, rarely appeal to Basque-American
audiences. People prefer good-natured teasing. "My greatest weapon," Jesús explains, "has always been a
little bit of humor." If a performance remains serious from beginning to end, he believes
audiences eventually lose interest. When he and Johnny Kurutxet perform together, they constantly provoke one
another, much to the delight of the audience. Over the years Jesús has also sung at funerals. He cannot remember exactly when that custom first became established
among Basque-Americans, but today it has become relatively common. At first he found such performances emotionally difficult. With experience, however, he learned to prepare himself by reflecting on
the life of the deceased and expressing that person's story through
improvised verse. The most difficult funeral he ever sang at was that of one of his own
cousins. As he has grown older, extensive travel has become increasingly tiring. There were occasions when he flew to Chino, California, for a
performance, caught an early-morning flight back to Reno after spending the
entire night awake, changed clothes upon arrival, and went directly to work. Many times he has considered refusing invitations to perform. Yet his passion for bertsolaritza always prevails. "You simply can't say no." Once someone becomes part of that world, he says, it is almost impossible
to leave it behind. Even during an ordinary dinner with Basque friends, someone inevitably
asks him to sing "just a couple of bertsoak." Two verses quickly become twelve. Throughout his life he has simply tried to share the joy of bertsolaritza
with fellow Basques scattered across the vast distances of the American West. Doing so has never been easy, since reaching Basque communities often
required driving hundreds of miles. Occasionally non-Basque Americans attend his performances. Afterward they sometimes tell him, "We didn't understand a word you sang—but the melodies were
beautiful." They applaud enthusiastically nonetheless. At one point during the interview Jesús recites an improvised bertsoa reflecting
on his life as a Basque immigrant: I live here in America, Jesús explains that bertsolaritza is part of his everyday life. He improvises constantly, even when he is alone. Seeing a bird may inspire a verse. While driving, he often composes ten or twelve bertsoak in succession,
inventing both the rhymes and the themes himself. He is always ready. Whether responding to another bertsolari, sitting in Reno's Santa Fe
Restaurant, or meeting friends unexpectedly, he can begin singing at a
moment's notice. Until only a few years ago, large numbers of Basques still gathered
regularly around Reno and Gardnerville. Today those communities have grown much older. Most younger Basque Americans, although they continue attending Basque
picnics and festivals, no longer speak Basque. Instead, English has become their dominant language. For that reason Jesús believes it will be extremely difficult for new
bertsolaris to emerge in the United States. Without a solid command of Basque, improvisational verse is simply
impossible. He does not expect a new generation of American-born bertsolaris to
appear unless someone first comes from the Basque Country. Traditional Basque songs, however, continue to thrive. Second-generation Basque Americans still sing them beautifully at
gatherings in places such as Chino and Boise. Jesús also proudly mentions that he trained the daughter of one of his
Basque friends, who went on to win numerous competitions in wood chopping and
chainsaw events. He considers that achievement another important milestone in the history
of Basque culture in America. Other traditional Basque rural sports, such as carrying heavy txingak,
also remain active in Nevada. Dance groups continue to flourish as well. Bertsolaritza, however, faces a far more uncertain future. One young man from San Francisco once approached Jesús with the ambitious
idea of training new bertsolaris. The conversation took place entirely in English. Jesús asked him one simple question: "Do you speak Basque?" "No," the young man admitted. "I'm going to try." Jesús smiled. Without Basque, he insists, one cannot become a bertsolari. If Basques lived closer together, perhaps a new generation might emerge. But the vast distances separating Basque communities throughout the
American West make that prospect increasingly unlikely. Modern technology, however, has helped bridge some of those distances. Today Jesús can watch recordings of contemporary bertsolaris, listen to
their voices, and remain connected with developments in the Basque Country. He also records his own bertsoak and shares them with friends. In 1986 or 1987—he no longer remembers the exact year—his parents visited
him in America for about forty days. They were astonished by the immense fields of alfalfa and the vast open
landscapes of the American West. Reflections Throughout the interview, Jesús Goñi reveals himself to be an
exceptionally articulate storyteller whose reflections extend well beyond the
events of his own life. Much of his thinking continues to take place in
Basque, largely because bertsolaritza has shaped the way he understands and
interprets the world. His entire cultural formation has been fundamentally oral. The Basque
traditions he inherited reached him through spoken language, songs, and
improvised verse rather than through writing. In turn, he has reinterpreted
and transmitted that heritage almost exclusively through oral performance.
Significantly, although he has composed hundreds of bertsoak during his
lifetime, virtually none exist in written form; they have lived through
memory, performance, and recording. Throughout his varied occupations—as a shepherd, cowboy, ranch worker,
construction worker, and bertsolari—he consistently adapted earlier knowledge
to new circumstances, demonstrating remarkable versatility. Economically, he
considers himself fortunate. Although he never became wealthy, he enjoys
financial security through two generous pensions. Above all, Jesús regards becoming a bertsolari in the United States as
one of the great privileges of his life. It has not been an easy path, but it
has expanded his personal horizons far beyond anything he believes would have
been possible had he remained in the Basque Country. In that sense, America
did not diminish his Basque identity; rather, it gave it a broader stage on
which to flourish.
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[1] “Etortzea”: aditz hauek
informanteak proposatutakoak dira (AEBetan egindako elkarrizketa izanik) eta
testu honetan hobesten da informantearen ikuspuntua islatzea.
[2]
https://eu.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rupert_(Idaho).
[3] Gitxi: gutxi. Hemen “bizkaitarren” erara ahoskatzen
du. / El término gitxi (poco) es la
variante “vizcaína” o del dialecto occidental del euskera (de la más central gutxi), quizá “incorporada” por el
amplio trato que ha tenido con los vizcaínos.
[4] Polito:
Mendebaldeko euskarak kutsatutako hitzak, esamoldeak eta aldaera fonetikoak
erabiltzen ditu Jesus Goñik, Idahon bizkaitar-euskaldunekin emandako hamar
urteen ondorioz / Polito (en lugar de
poliki) es una variante más
occidental también quizá incorporada tras sus años en Idaho, en donde hay
muchos vizcaínos. / Jesús Goñi
occasionally uses words, expressions, and phonetic variants characteristic of
Western Basque. For example, he uses polito instead of poliki
(“slowly”), a feature he likely adopted during the ten years he spent in Idaho,
where he lived and worked with many Basque speakers from Bizkaia.
[5] Union: sindikatua.
[6] Ingelesa baizik ez dakitenak.
[1] Lequerica y Erquicia, José Félix de. Bilbao
(Vizcaya), 30.I.1890 – Guecho (Vizcaya), 9.VI.1963. Político, ministro,
embajador, representante español ante la Organización de las Naciones Unidas
(ONU) […], in:
https://dbe.rah.es/biografias/12004/jose-felix-de-lequerica-y-erquicia
[2] “San
Franciscotik forty miles”, dio. Bistan da distantziak ingelesez esaten ohituta
dagoela eta ez du oztoporik hori bere euskarazko berbaldian “txertatzeko”.
[3] “Emakumea”
esaten du berak, Bizkaian gehien batean “andra” edo “enbra” esaten den arren.
Ikusten da bere bizitzan zehar beste euskara mota batzuk ezagutu dituela eta
zenbait ezaugarri linguistiko berenganatu ditu.
[4]“Enbra”,
orain bai, Bizkaiko leku askotan erabiltzen den hitza darabil hemen, “emakumea”
esateko.
[5] “Harik eta … arte” deborazko lokailua dotore erabilita.
[6] Trobela: ingelesezko troublea azkeneko a- artikuluarekin.
[7] “Bakixu”,
badakizu hitzaren ebakera berea. Ingelesez askotan esaten den “you know”-ren
funtzio berbera harrapatu duelakoan gaude.
[8] “Ez
gendun euskera egiten ahal eskolan”: Egitura aldetik hau nafar-lapurtera edo
Nafarroa Behereko euskararen egitura bat da, ahalerazkoa ezezkoan. “Ezin”
partikula ez darabil, ezezkoa adierazteko (Mendebaldeko euskalkian erabiltzen
dena).
[9] “Zera” hori kisketa
delakoan gaude.
[10] “Ez dau urtetan ahal”: berriro ere
ahalerazko-ezezko “berezia”, senarraren eraginez ziurrenera berenganatu zuena.
“Ezin da irten” horren parekoa lizateke, (“ezin dau urten” edo horrelako
zerbait bere euskalkian).
[11] “Oin
ez dau egiten ahal”: “orain ezin du egin” horren parekoa.
[12] Usaba: Ugazaba,
euskara normatiboan, nahiz eta bizkaitarrek “usaba” ahoskatzen duten
sistematikoki.
[13] Patari: (B)
fiera, bestia (salvaje); alimaña.
[14] Strocke:
ictusa.
[15] Bizkaiko
Mendebalean “enbra” emakumea adierazteko erabiltzen da (Busturialdean eta
Txorierrin, batez ere).
[16] “Fenzak”: “fence” ingelesezko hitza (harresi), euskaratuta edo.
Alfonso Ygoa Michelena (Lesaka, 1941)
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Alfonso Ygoa Michelena
Elkon (Nevada) bizi da egun eta 2021eko azaroaren 30ean egin genion
elkarrizketa elkarrizketa, euskaraz, Elkoko Star Hoteleko gela txiki batean.
Bertako nagusia izan zen eta elkarrizketa eginiko urtean bere semea Scotty
ari zen lokala kudeatzen. Alfonso Ygoa Michelena
(Irigoyen Ayarza ) 1941eko urriaren 19an jaio zen, Lesaka herrian. Txomineko
bordan (baserrian) sortua da, zortzi neba-arreben artean (bat hil zen
txikitxoa zelarik). Gainontzeko zazpi neba-arrebak nagusiak izan arte bizi
izan dira, baina duela gutxi hiru hil dira hiru hilabeteren buruan. Momentu
txar bat pasa du galera horiekin. Bera anaietan gazteena da eta bakarra
Ameriketara etorrita. Guraso biak lesakarrak.
Baserrian laupabost behi eta zaldiak ere bai: zaletasuna zeukaten etxean
zaldiekiko, hamarren bat zeuzkaten, “ayuntamentun terrenun”, udalaren
terrenoetan bazkatzen zirenak. Bestalde, hogeita hamar bat ardi ere
bazituzten. Eskolara “apezekin” joan
zen. Sasoi hartan neskak monjekin joaten ziren eta mutikoak apezekin. Beste
maestroren bat ere bazen, baina familian horixe zen ohitura: mutikoak
apezekin eta neskak (bere arrebak) monjekin. Hamabi urtetan utzi zuen eskola:
bidali nahi zuten fraile ikasteko, baina anaia nagusiak gomendatu zion ez
joateko. Jarraian gizon bati
lagunduz pinuak botatzen hasi zen, mutil koxkorra zelarik. Mendian txabola
“txar” batean kozinatzen zituen “frijolak”
edo ilarrak eta urdaia. Hamabost urte bete arte horrelaxe ibili zen.
Gero, Lesakako “serreria” batean hasi zen: konpainiak Irigoyen zuen izena (nagusia Narciso
Irigoyen zen). Ordurako aita eta beste bi anaia ere baziren hor lanean. Hamabost
urtetik hogei urte bete arte han aritu zen. Hogei urterekin Ameriketara
etortzea erabaki zuen. John Carpenter izena zeukan nagusi bat zen Elkon eta
lesakar bat ere bai: David Aranburu. Anaia nagusia David horrekin zegoen
lanean eta anaiak animatuta erabaki zuen. Hilean berrehun eta hamabost dolar
irabazten zuen. Hamasei urte eman zituen jarraian. Lehenik artzain, hiru
urtez. Gero arrantxoan, gero “mayordomo” jarri zuten, beti ganaduarekin:
hogeita hamabi mila ardirekin ibili zen eta “bertze” sei bat mila behi ere baziren. Nagusia, esan bezala, John
Carpenter izan zen eta bazituen zazpi seme-alaba: horietarik hiru mutil.
“Deustako” ez omen zuten balio hiru seme horiek, edaria eta “tranpa” izaten
zen nagusi eta horrek gogaitu egin zuen Alfonso. Sukaldean ere aritu zen:
goizeko bostetatik iluntzera arte, hiru otordu nagusi prestatzen zituen. Emaztea izango zena ere
sukaldean aritzen zen. Artzain eta langileen “probisioneen” kalkulua berak
egiten zuen. Hogeita bi “partida” baziren mendian barreiatuta eta haiendako
janaria Alfonsoren “andreak” egiten
zuen, eta antolatu: gero kanperoak hori hartu eta artzainei eramaten zien.
Hogeita hamar bat langile izango ziren hor arrantxoan lanean eta horietarik
hamaika lesakarrak ziren. Hamabi urte eman zituen maiordomo, baina “aspertu
omen zen ederki”. Ameriketara etorri orduko
ideia era batekoa zen, baina etorrita beste bat aurkitu zuen. “Solasin” edo
hizketan ez jakiteak ere oztopatzen zuen Amerika hobeto ezagutzen. Hemen zeuden zaharrek gazteei laguntzen zieten. Terreno izugarri handiak
iruditu zitzaizkion Alfonsori, Nevadakoak. “Akaburik gabe”. Berak dio
Lesakatik atera eta Bilbora joateko (beste “mundu” batera joateko) ehun
kilometro inguru behar dira ibili. Ameriketan, Nevadan ehun kilometro ibilita
ere ez zara inora ailegatzen. Nagusiak, J. Carpenterrek bazituen terrenoak
hainbat lekutan Nevadan barrena eta Utah-n
eta Alfonso horiek “artatzeko” pick-upa erabiltzen zuen hainbat milia
eginda urtean. Bizkaitar asko badira
Elkon. Izan ere, Alfonsoren andrea bizkaitar jatorrikoa da (Gabika familiarekin
dago harremanetuta), aita Ereñokoa zuen. Hirurogeita seian (1966) ezkondu zen
emaztearekin eta bi seme-alaba izan zituzten. Seme-alaba biak arrantxoan jaio
ziren (Barbara eta Scotty). Bizkaitarren euskara hasieran ez zuen harrapatzen eta “erdarara”
jotzen zuen (“ezin aditu ere, ezta pentsatu ere”) edo zeinuen hizkuntzara
(keinuak eta abar). Azkenean ikasi zuten euren “modua” eta haiek
(bizkaitarren) eurena ikasi zuten. Gaur egun ere musean beste hiru
bizkaitarrekin egiten du eta elkar ulertzen dute Bere sasoiko jendea
langilea omen zen. Ondorengo urteetan, gazteagoak oro-har lan egiteko gogo
gutxiagorekin aritzen ziren. Gero Perutik eta horrelako lekuetatik gazteak
ekartzen edo etortzen hasi ziren. Mexikarrak ere badira, baina Alfonsoren
ustez ez dira peruarrak bezain onak (artzain lanetan). Txiletarrak ere ez
dira heltzen peruarren mailaraino: gutxi daude gaur egun. Artzain lana egiteak aukera
ematen du egunaren parte batean “siesta ematen” egoteko. Goizean goiz
artaldea gobernatu eta arratsalde partean ere artatu behar da, agian beste
mendi-bizkar batera eramanez bazka jaten jarrai dezan. Seme-alabekin euskaraz
aritzen zen. Seme nagusiak ez zuen ingelesa erabiltzen hamabi urte bete arte:
ordura arte gehiena euskaraz. “Tonight” eta “Last night” eta horrelakoak
bakoitzak bere modura erabiltzen zituen. Andreak (emazteak) lagundu zion
asko. Andreak laguntzen zion “zelan” esan behar ziren gauzak eta hemengo
“berbak” ikasi zituen azkenean, nahiz
eta eskola aski ez izan. Ingelesezko idazkera “dena aldresbes” izaten da
Alfonsoren ustetan eta ahoskatu edo “pronunziatu” erdia baizik ez dute
egiten. Hasierako hamasei urte
haietan oso opor gutxi izan zituen. Aprobetxatzen zuen Elkoko pic-nic-era
etortzeko eta gozatzeko. Dantzarako “afizionea” zeukan, Lesakan dantzatzen
zuelako. Arreba batek urte oso bat eman zuen Elkon eta euskal dantzak
erakusten aritu zen. Alfonso ere dantza-zaletu zen dexente. Dantza
taldekoekin eta lehiaketa edo “konkurtsoetan” ere aritu zen. Ameriketara etorri eta
Euskal Herrira ez zen itzuli lehenengo kontrata bukatu arte, hiru urteren
buruan . , Ardian “barrandatzen” eta desertuan ibiltzen zirelarik,
emigrazioneko bi gizon trajedun etorri zitzaizkion esanez sei egunen buruan
New Yorketik etxera bueltatu behar zuela. Euskal Herrira itzuli zela
frogatzeko zigilua jarri pasaportean eta etor zitekeela atzera ere AEBetara.
Proposamen hori ez zitzaion gustatu, baina afera konpondu zen: irailean joan
eta abenduan AEBetara itzuli zen. 1967an “green card” eman zioten. 1962ko otsailaren 24an
etorri zen. Gero (hamabi urte pasata, 1974an) aspertu zen lan horretaz eta
nagusiak berak eskaini zion lana “County-an” , hauteskundeetan bere nagusia
hautagaia zelako sasoi hartan. Hark esan omen zion: “Nik emanen dizut lan
ona”. Elko County-rako lanean hasi eta hogeita hamaika urte eman zituen
bertan, bideak konpontzen “grave-gaz”. 2008an erretiratu zen, 1977an sartu
zenez geroztik jarraian lanean. Erretiratu eta gero, deitu omen zioten udan
lan egiteko eta horrela, uda partean beste hamar urtez aritu da lanean
(2018ra arte edo). “Surrean” edo
Hegoaldean hogeita hamar milatara joaten zen eta bidea konpontzen hasten zen.
Idahorako bidea ere konpontzen aritzen zen. Irailean zaldien lasterketarako
eta errodeoa egiteko lekua ere konpontzen aritzen zen, Elkotik gertu. Aria
pasatzen zuen lurra biguntzeko eta 2021eko udan ere gauza bera egin du,
erretiratuta egon arre. Lanpostu horretan baziren
beste euskaldun batzuk, baina azpimarratzen du euskaldun asko “minetan” edo
meategietan aritu zirela lanean, Nevadan, Elkotik gertu bada mina edo meategi
bat zazpi mila lagunekin lanean. Orain erretiroa kobratzen
du ona, lau mila eta berrehun dolar hilabetean. “Sozial security-tik” beste
mila dolar irabazten du aparte. Etxea ordainduta dauka, semeak Star Hotela du
ere ordainduta… bizimodu onean dagoela uste du berak. Berrehun eta hogeita
bost dolar kobratzetik (artzaina zelarik) bost mila eta berrehun kobratzera
pasatu da erretiroa hartuta: ez da progresio makala. Ameriketara zentimorik
gabe heldu zen eta bazuen zorra nagusiarekin: “kabaña” erosi zuen lo egiteko,
arropa, botak eta abar erosi behar izan zituen eta 800 dolarreko gastua izan
zen (ia lau hilabeteko soldata). Lehenengo kontrata burutua bost mila dolar
irabazi zituen eta sasoi hartan hiru mila dolarrekin pisu bat eros zitekeen
Euskal Herrian: beraz bazen dirua, nahiz eta horretan ez zuen erabili.
Hasierako urteetan “amari” bidaltzen zion dirua, Gabonetan, adibidez berrehun
dolar. Oraindik, gaur egun ere jarraitzen du bere koinatari dirua igortzen. Elkon euskaraz eta gaztelaniaz
egiten du, eta jakina, ingelesez. Semeak etxean euskaraz soilik egiten zuen
eta ingelesa eskolan ikasi zuen. Emaztearen ama Eakoa zen (aita Natxitukoa,
bizkaitarra baita), eta emaztearekin ere euskaraz egiten zuen. Amaren
lehengusuetarik lau baziren lau Nevadan eta Idahon. Euskal Herrira joaten
delarik lehenengoz familiakoak bisitatzen ditu, baina gurasoak hil direnetik
galdu egin du hara joateko “ilusioa” edo “kariñoa”. Gabonak ospatzen ditu
familia giroan eta Thanksgiving eguna ere familian. Gogoratzen da txikitako
baserrian Gabonetan txerria hil, mortzillak egin, ospatu eta kantatu egiten
zuten. Bazeukaten “gramola” zahar bat, manibelari eman behar zitzaiona (amak
egiten zuen hori) eta musiko hori entzuten zuten eta kantatzen zuten. Hemen gutxiago kantatzen da, baita euskaldun
gutxi geratzen direlako. Gazteek (euskaldunen ondorengoei buruz ari da) beste
“plan batzuekin” aritzen dira eta agian Elkon ez dira antolatzen euskal
zentroaren inguruan, eta abar. “Konputadora” seinalatzen du adieraziz gazteak
tresna horren inguruan dabiltzala, eta,
gainera, hori gabe ezin baita deus egin. Gaineratzen du bere gurasoek
ziotela Alfonsoren belaunaldikoak ari zirela mundua aldatzen, baina, bere
ustez, aldaketa askoz handiagoa izan da bera gazte zenetik gaur arte. Gaur egun arrebarekin
telefonoz komunikatzen da, astero astero. Gabonetarako ere turroiak eta
bidaltzen dizkiote Leskatik. Euskal pilota ere jarraitzen du zerbait:
periodikoetan ikusi du Aimar Olaizola goizuetarra erretiratu berri dela.
Gogoratzen du Elkoko frontoia lesakar batek egin zuela, Nicolás Fagoagak.
Lehen afizio gehiago zegoen. Orain San Franciscotik etortzen dira batzuk
jokatzera, “frantsesak” . “Euskaldunak bakantzen ari gara”, horrela dio
Elkoko egoera dela-eta. Jon Lopategiren anaia bat dagoela Elkon adierazten du
eta musean aritzea da euskaldunak biltzeko aitzakia Elkon. Etxekoak etorri izan dira
bisitan Elkora, baina ez zaie hemengo bizimodua gustatzen. Hango “txikitekoa”
uzteko ez daude prest. Elkon badago “txikitekoa”, baina amerikanoek egiten
dute, ez euskaldunek, ez baitute “xantzarik” izan, beti tokatu izan zaie lan
egitea, ez dute astirik horretarako. Anaiak gehienak Lesakako fabrikan daude.
Bera etortzekotan zegoelarik hasi zen “buila”, eginen zela, ez zela eginen,
eta azkenean egin zen fabrika . Seme alabak ere oso
langiletsuak dira. Alabak hogeita hamar urte eman ditu irakasle. Orain
eretiratuta bi mila eta hirurehun dolar jasotzen ditu erretirotik. Hala ere,
jarraitzen du lanean Star Hotelean (semea da nagusia) eta beste horrenbeste
irabazten du lan horretatik (familia negozioa da). Alabaren gizonak ere bere
soldata dauka, estadoarendako egiten du lan, ureztatze kontuetan. Alfonsoren
emaztea ere, arrantxoaren egonaldia edo lanaldia bukatuta banku batean sartu
zen lanean, eta hogeita hamar urte eman ditu bertan. Hiru biloba ditu eta
karrera ari dira bukatzen. Euskal Herriarekin badute kontaktua: san
Ferminetan (Lesakan eta Iruñean) izan dira behin baino gehiagotan, han
badituzte lagunak, eta egin izan dituzte egonaldiak. Nicolas Elia
(Erroibarrekoa) gogoratzen du. Etorri zelarik bera zegoen maiordomo
Carpenterren . Gero hori utzi eta ostatuan egon zen “kantinero”, Rafael
Fagoagarendako . “Kordionea jotzen zun polliki”, esaten du Alfonsok. Jendea
laguntzeko prest egoten zen, berari ere lagundu zion etorri berria zelarik.
Egona dago beraren etxean Burlatan, zazpi seme-alaba omen ditu eta Alfonso
harritzen da horrekin. Handik ekarri dute
kristautasuna eta “segitzen dutela” dio. Mezetara joan, hileta elizkizun
erlijiosoak, seme alaba Elizatik ezkonduak, eta horrela. Hemen “erlijione”
anitz da: mormoiak eta abar aipatzen ditu. Seme-alabak txikitan “dotrina”
ikastera bidaltzen zituen eta ikasten duten horretatik beti gelditzen omen da
zerbait buruan.
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(Part 1) Interview conducted in
Elko, Nevada, in Basque on November 30, 2021. Alfonso Ygoa Michelena was interviewed in a small room at the Star Hotel
in Elko, Nevada. He had once managed the historic hotel himself, and at the
time of the interview it was being operated by his son, Scotty. Alfonso was born on October 19, 1941, in Lesaka, Navarre, at the
farmhouse known as Txomineko Borda. He was the youngest of eight
children, although one sibling died in infancy. The remaining seven reached
adulthood, but shortly before the interview three of them passed away within
the space of only three months, a series of losses that deeply affected him.
He is the youngest of the siblings and the only one who emigrated to the
United States. Both of his parents were natives of Lesaka. The family farm was modest but productive. They owned four or five cows,
about thirty sheep, and around ten horses, which grazed on communal land
owned by the municipality. Horses were especially important to the family,
and Alfonso grew up surrounded by them. He attended school run by Catholic priests. At that time boys were
educated by the priests while girls—including his sisters—attended schools
operated by nuns. Although other teachers were available, this was the custom
followed by his family. Alfonso left school at the age of twelve. His parents hoped that he would enter the religious life and study to
become a friar, but his eldest brother advised him against it. Instead, while still a young boy, he began working with a man who felled
pine trees in the mountains. The living conditions were extremely basic. He
cooked beans and bacon in a rough mountain hut and continued this work until
he was about fifteen years old. He then found employment at a sawmill in Lesaka owned by the Irigoyen
Company, whose proprietor was Narciso Irigoyen. By then his father and two of
his brothers were also employed there. He remained at the sawmill from the age of fifteen until he turned
twenty. At twenty, Alfonso decided to emigrate to the United States. A ranch owner in Elko named John Carpenter employed another man from
Lesaka, David Aranburu. Alfonso's eldest brother was already working with
David, and encouraged him to make the journey. His starting salary was 215 dollars per month. He would remain on the Carpenter ranch for sixteen consecutive years. During the first three years he worked as a sheepherder. Afterwards he
became a ranch hand and was eventually promoted to foreman, always
working with livestock. At one point he was responsible for approximately
32,000 sheep and another 6,000 head of cattle. John Carpenter remained his employer throughout those years. Carpenter had seven children, including three sons. According to Alfonso, however, those three sons had little interest in
ranch work. Drinking and irresponsible behavior occupied much of their time,
a situation that increasingly frustrated him. Besides supervising livestock, Alfonso also spent time working in the
ranch kitchen. His day often began at five o'clock in the morning and continued until
evening as he prepared the three main meals served each day. The woman who would later become his wife also worked in the kitchen. She was responsible for calculating and organizing food supplies for the
ranch. There were twenty-two sheep camps scattered throughout the mountains, and
she prepared provisions for each of them before the camp tenders delivered
the food to the shepherds. Around thirty people worked on the ranch altogether, eleven of whom were
from Lesaka. Alfonso served as foreman for twelve years before finally growing tired
of the responsibility. When he first arrived in America, he admits that reality differed greatly
from what he had imagined. One of the greatest obstacles was language. Not being able to communicate made it difficult to understand American
society or fully participate in it. Fortunately, older Basque immigrants already established in the region
helped the younger newcomers adjust to their new lives. The vastness of Nevada made a profound impression on him. "The land seemed endless," he recalls. He compares it with his native Lesaka. Traveling one hundred kilometers from Lesaka to Bilbao meant reaching a
completely different world. In Nevada, by contrast, one could drive one hundred kilometers and still
feel as though one had not arrived anywhere. John Carpenter owned ranches throughout Nevada as well as in neighboring
Utah. As foreman, Alfonso spent countless hours driving a pickup truck between
these distant properties, covering thousands of miles every year. Elko was home to many Basques, particularly immigrants from Bizkaia. His own wife was of Bizkaian descent through the Gabika family, although
her father had originally come from Ereño. They married in 1966 and eventually had two children, Barbara and Scotty,
both of whom were born on the ranch. At first Alfonso struggled to understand the Bizkaian dialect of Basque. He often switched to Spanish—or simply relied on gestures—because, as he
puts it, "I couldn't understand a word of it." Eventually, however, both sides adapted. He learned their variety of Basque, and they learned his. Even today he regularly plays mus with three friends from Bizkaia,
and they communicate without difficulty. Looking back on his generation, Alfonso believes that people were far
more willing to work than many younger workers who arrived later. Over time increasing numbers of immigrants came from Peru, Mexico, Chile,
and elsewhere. In his opinion, Peruvian shepherds generally proved to be the best
workers. He considers Mexican shepherds somewhat less reliable, while Chileans,
although hardworking, never quite reached the same standard as the Peruvians. Life as a shepherd, he explains, followed a particular rhythm. Early each morning the flock had to be gathered and moved. During the middle of the day there was often time to rest before
returning to the sheep in the afternoon and leading them to fresh grazing
areas. Basque remained the language of the home. He and his wife always spoke Basque with their children. Their son scarcely spoke any English until he was twelve years old. Only after beginning school did English gradually become his dominant
language. Alfonso remembers struggling with expressions such as tonight and last
night, often confusing their meanings. His wife patiently helped him learn English vocabulary and everyday expressions. Although he never received much formal schooling, he eventually mastered
the language through daily use. He still laughs about English spelling. "They write everything backwards," he jokes, adding that people
pronounce only half the letters anyway. During his first sixteen years in America he had very little vacation
time. Whenever possible, however, he made sure to attend the annual Basque
picnic in Elko. He had always loved dancing, having danced frequently while growing up in
Lesaka. One of his sisters spent a full year in Elko teaching traditional Basque
dances, and Alfonso himself became deeply involved in the local dance group,
even participating in competitions. After arriving in America, he did not return to the Basque Country until
the completion of his first three-year employment contract. At one point, while he was tending sheep in the desert, two immigration
officers wearing suits unexpectedly arrived. They informed him that within six days he would have to return to New
York and then travel back to Spain in order to receive the passport stamp
proving that he had officially left the United States before re-entering
legally. He disliked the requirement but complied. He traveled to Spain in September and returned to the United States that
December. In 1967 he finally received his Green Card, allowing him to remain
permanently. (Part 2) Alfonso arrived in the United States on February 24, 1962. After sixteen years on the Carpenter ranch, he decided he had had enough of ranch life. Fortunately, his employer—who at the time was running for county office—offered him a new position. "I'll get you a good job," he told Alfonso. He subsequently joined the Elko County Road Department, where he spent the next thirty-one years maintaining county roads with gravel and heavy equipment. He retired in 2008 after more than three decades of public service. Even retirement did not entirely end his working life. Every summer the county invited him back, and for another ten years—until about 2018—he continued working seasonally. His responsibilities included repairing roads as far as thirty miles south of Elko, maintaining highways leading toward Idaho, and preparing the grounds for Elko's annual horse races and rodeo. He recalls operating heavy machinery to loosen and level the soil. Even during the summer of 2021, despite being officially retired, he had once again helped prepare the rodeo grounds. Several other Basques also worked in the county road department. Even so, Alfonso points out that many Basques in northeastern Nevada eventually found employment in the mining industry. Near Elko, one mine alone employed around seven thousand workers. Financially, Alfonso considers himself very fortunate. At the time of the interview he was receiving a monthly county pension of approximately $4,200, together with an additional $1,000 in Social Security benefits. His house had long since been paid off. His son had also fully paid for the historic Star Hotel. He believes the family enjoys a comfortable and secure life. Looking back, he is struck by the extraordinary transformation. He arrived in America earning only $225 per month as a shepherd. In retirement, his monthly income exceeded $5,200. "It hasn't been a bad progression," he says with satisfaction. When he first reached America he possessed virtually nothing. In fact, he immediately found himself in debt to his employer. He had to purchase a small cabin in which to sleep, together with clothing, boots, and other necessities. The initial expenses totaled around $800, nearly four months' salary. By the end of his first employment contract he had saved approximately $5,000. At that time, he notes, an apartment in the Basque Country could have been purchased for around $3,000, illustrating just how significant those savings were. Rather than investing in property back home, however, he regularly sent money to his mother. At Christmas, for example, he often mailed her two hundred dollars. Even today, he continues sending financial assistance to one of his sisters-in-law in the Basque Country. Daily life in Elko now moves naturally between three languages. He speaks Basque, Spanish, and English. His son grew up speaking only Basque at home before learning English in school. His wife's mother came from Ea in Bizkaia, while her father was originally from Natxitua, and Basque remained the family's common language. Several of his mother's cousins had also settled in Nevada and Idaho. Whenever Alfonso travels back to the Basque Country, his first priority is always visiting relatives. Since the deaths of his parents, however, he admits that he no longer feels the same emotional pull to return. Family traditions continue to occupy an important place in his life. Christmas is celebrated with the family, as is Thanksgiving. He fondly remembers Christmases at the farmhouse in Lesaka, when the family slaughtered a pig, prepared blood sausages, sang together, and celebrated around an old gramophone that had to be wound by hand. His mother always turned the crank while everyone else gathered to listen and sing. Life in Elko is quieter today. There is less singing, partly because fewer Basque speakers remain. The younger generations, he says, have different interests. Many no longer organize their lives around the Basque community center. Instead, computers occupy much of their attention. Pointing toward a computer, he remarks that nowadays nothing can be done without one. His parents once believed that Alfonso's generation was transforming the world. He disagrees. In his view, the changes
that have occurred since his own youth have been far greater than anything
his parents could have imagined.
He still telephones his
sister in Lesaka every week.
At Christmas his relatives
continue sending him traditional Basque sweets, including turrón.
He also follows Basque
pelota from afar.
Reading the newspapers, he
learned of the retirement of the celebrated pelotari Aimar Olaizola.
He proudly recalls that
Elko's fronton had originally been built by another man from Lesaka, Nicolás
Fagoaga.
Pelota once enjoyed much
greater popularity than it does today. Now a few players—many of
them from San Francisco and the French Basque Country—still travel to Elko to
compete. "We Basques are
gradually disappearing," Alfonso observes sadly. One of the brothers of the
famous bertsolari Jon Lopategi also lives in Elko. These days, games of mus
have become one of the main occasions for Basques to gather socially. Members of Alfonso's family
have visited him in Elko on several occasions. Although they enjoy the visit, they never become particularly attached to life in Nevada. They miss the txikiteo—the Basque custom of moving from one bar to another while enjoying small drinks with friends. There is something similar in Elko, he says, but it is mostly Americans who participate. Basques have rarely had the opportunity. They have always been working too hard. Most of Alfonso's brothers eventually found employment in the factory at Lesaka. The factory was still under discussion when Alfonso emigrated. People debated whether it would ever be built. Eventually it was, providing stable employment for many who remained behind. His own children inherited the family's work ethic. His daughter spent thirty
years as a schoolteacher. After retiring she began
receiving a pension of approximately $2,300 per month. Even so, she continues
working at the Star Hotel, now managed by her brother Scotty, earning roughly
the same amount again. Her husband also works for
the State of Nevada in irrigation management. After leaving ranch life,
Alfonso's wife spent thirty years employed at a bank. The couple now have three grandchildren, all completing university degrees. The younger generation also maintains close ties with the Basque Country. They have visited Lesaka and Pamplona several times during the San Fermín festivities, developed friendships there, and spent extended periods with relatives. Toward the end of the interview Alfonso remembers another Navarrese immigrant, Nicolás Elía, originally from the Erro Valley. When Nicolás first arrived, Alfonso was serving as foreman on the Carpenter ranch. Later Nicolás left ranch work and became bartender for Rafael Fagoaga. "He played the accordion beautifully," Alfonso recalls. Nicolás was always willing
to help newly arrived immigrants, just as he had helped Alfonso during his
own early days in America. Alfonso has visited Nicolás at his home in Burlada, near Pamplona, and still marvels that he successfully raised seven children. Faith has also remained an important part of Alfonso's life. He believes that Basque immigrants brought their Catholic traditions with them to America and have largely remained faithful to them. The family continues attending Mass, celebrates religious funeral services, and both of his children were married in the Catholic Church. Although many different religions exist in America—including the Mormon faith, which he specifically mentions—he always made sure that his children attended catechism classes. "What they learn
there," he concludes, "always stays with them in one way or
another."
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Seberiano Lazcano Ustariz
(Gaztelu, Nafarroa, 1942)
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Seberiano Lazcano (Part 1)Minden
herrian (Nevada), bere etxean egindako elkarrizketaren emaitza da honako hau,
2021eko azaroaren 17an egina, hain zuzen. Lehenengoz
bere kapela erakusten dit. Ikurrina eta AEBetako bandera ditu bekoki partean
eta alboan idatzita “herri bi eta bihotz bat”. Lazcano
“c-rekin” idazten du, nahiz eta jakin euskaraz “k-z” idazten dela. Malerrekan
sortua, Gaztelu herrian. Bera etorri “zelaikan”[1]
hemeretzi etxe baziren. 1942an
Komizko bordan, sortua dugu Seberiano. Aita Aranazkoa zen, eta ama
Santesteban edo Doneztebekoa. Bederatzi anaia-arreba izan ziren. Herriko
eskolara joateko ez zegoen karreterarik. Mendiz bidexka txar-txar bat zegoen.
Maistra Doneztebetik Gaztelura etortzen zen “menditikan”. Hagitz gutti egon
zen eskolan, hamar-hamaika urtera arte. Ardiak zaintzen eta idi-aitzinean
ibiltzen zen eta ezin eskolara joan. Leitzen (irakurtzen), “eskribitzen”,
gehiketak eta kenketan eta apenas deus gehiago. Arrebak bazuen eskola gehiago
eta Seberiano etorri zelarik Ameriketara arrebaren gutunak jasotzen zituen
eta haiek leituz eta behatuz ikasi zuen polliki. Anaia
Frantzia aldera joan zen basomutil eta arreba bat Parisa. Beraz, etxean
lagundu beharra zegoen. Anaietan gazteena zen Seberiano eta arreba bat zuen
bera baino gazteagoa. Etxean behiak, zerriak, oiloak eta bizpahiru behor
mendian ibiltzen zirenak. Etxea herritik bi kilometro aparte zegoen eta
anaiei ez zieten zuten
joatera herrira pilotan aritzera. “Gaueko
lanean” ere aritzen zen gauez. Behorra hartuta Ultzamaraino joaten zen mendiz
eta horrela sos puska bat lortzen zuen. Goardiak agertzen baziren paketeak
kentzen zituzten eta ez zuten deus irabazten, hori zen arazo bakarra.
Behorraz gain bazuen zakur bat, apezari eta karabineruei “sainga diferente”
egiten ziena. Zakurra aitzinetik joaten zen eta karabinero bat ikustean
(urrutitik ikusten zituen, erretzen baitzuten) sainga egiten zuen zakurrak.
Orduan Seberianok bazekien han zeudela eta beste alderdi batetik joaten zen
(karabineroak saihesteko). Entzuten
zuen jendea Ameriketara etortzen zela eta sos gehiago egiten zuela. Melchor
Graciarena aipatzen dit, Bakersfield-en dagoena. Seberianoren adinekoa da,
eskola berean aritu ziren. Hura 1961ean etorri zen eta Seberiano 1962an
(AEBetara betiere). Anaia bat Seberianoren ostean etorri zen, bi hilabete
geroago, baina ez zitzaion gustatu hemen egotea, “ez zuen laket”. Hiru urte
baino ez zituen egin, kontrata bat,
Lorentzo Lazcano (Beran bizi da).
Seberiano
Fresnora joan zen, nagusiak Urepelekoak ziren: Rey eta Mixen Sagardia.
Seberianoren arreba zaharrena (Jesús) Reyrekin ezkondu zen (baina Garnevillen
bizi den Jesus Rey hark ez dauka zerikusirik Fresnoko Rey (urepeldar)
horrekin. Ameriketara
etorri eta arrantxoan suertea izan zuen. Han bazen etxe bat Baigorriko gizon
bat bere emaztearekin bizi zena. Hara joan zen bizitzera. Haiek kozinatzen
zuten nagusiendako eta hara joan zen bizitzera laguntzera. Bildotsei jatera
ematen ere aritzen zen. Jateko ziren bildotsak, hil, larrutu eta arbola
batetik (poleaz) zintzilikatzen zituen (otsoek eta koioteek ez jateko) gero
artzainei emateko. Bi uda haiekin eman zituen eta “ontsa”[2]
ibili zen.
Bakarrik
ere ibili zen. Hemeretzi urterekin etorri zen eta adin “goiztiar” haietan
bakarrik ibiltzea bereziki gogorra iruditzen zaio. Zazpi urte eman zituen
ardiekin. Hori beteta green card
eman zioten. Los Angeles bazuen lagun bat harategian edo “karnizerian” lan
egiten zuena. Hara joan zen, haragia mozten, hezurra kentzen eta horrelako
lanak egitera. 1969 urtea zen, Midwest harategiaren izena. Ingelesik bat ere
ez zekien eta nagusiak esaten ziolarik izterra edo solomoak ekartzeko
(ingelesez) ez zuen ulertzen, eta okerreko haragi-zatia ekartzen zion
batzuetan, baina ahalegina egiten zuela ikusirik nagusiak ongi hartu zuen.
Leongo mutiko bat ere bazen han eta haragien izenak, kajen (kutxen) izenak
erakusten zizkion eta konpondu zen. Bost urte eta erdi eman zituen han. Bazen
matrimonio bat gizona Isabakoa zena (Fernando Baraze) eta emaztea bizkaitarra
(Begoña): haien apartamentuan bizi izan zen, bi koarto edo logela libre
zituztelako. Emakume hark kozinatzen zuenarekin bizi zen. Senar-emazte horiek
Iruñera bizitzera joan ziren: jakin du gizona hila dela, baina emazteaz ez
daki. Ongi irabazten zuen han, baina ordutegi txarra zeukan: “arratseko”
hamarretan hasten zen lanean, denak lotara joaten ziren momentuan. Beste
gauza “txar” bat zen, haragia mozten zuten lekua beroa zela, baina kutxetan
sartzen zen lekua oso hotza, paretak hormatu egiten ziren. Katarro asko
harrapatu zituen. 1973an ezkondu zen euskal jatorria zuen txiletar batekin,
euskal festa batean ezagutu eta gero. Seme bi izan zituzten. 1974an
edo hura utzi eta jardinetan lanean hasi zen. Langintza hartan hamabost urte
eta erdi eman zituen. Arcadia[3],
Pasadena, San Marino, Holywood-en… horrelako lekuetan lan egin zuen
lorategiak zaintzen. Bizkaitar batzuk baziren lanean zonalde hartan,
Holywood-en eta haiek Renora joan ziren eta “baratze” horien ardura
Seberianori eman zioten, hasi berria zelako eta ez zuen aski. Bere kasa ibili
zen. Gero, bere emaztea izango zenak animaturik, Los Angeles-eko beste alde
batera joan zen, Westlake[4]
herritik gertu. Bazituen
hiru-lau langile berarendako lanean. Doktoreak, abogatuak, kontratistak…
izaten ziren bere bezeroak. Nahiago zuen kanpo-lana egin, eta horregatik
aritu zen hamabost urtez. Gero
Agoura Hills-era[5]
joan zen bizitzera bere emaztearekin (Txilen sortua, baina aitatxi bizkaitarra
zuen, Ibarra), 1984an dibortziatu zen bere emaztearengandik. 1989ra arte
aritu zen “baratzean”. Negozioa saldu eta Star Hotel erosi zuen. Negozioa
hiru pertsoneko talde bati saldu zion: euskaldun bat zegoen tartean (eta
mexikar zein salvadoreño bana). Sozio euskaldun batekin (partner) erosi zuten
Star Hotela Elkon (Nevadan), Miguel Leoniz: ez zen berarekin ongi konpondu.
Esplikatzen du zergatik ez zen oso harreman profesional ona izan (24:50-25:30). Elkon
hamabost urte pasatu zituen. Hoteleko goikaldean baziren gelak eta han paratu
ziren bizitzera (lehen artzainak bizi ziren tokietan). Diru xahuketa handia
egin zuten hasieran hotela erosteko eta horregatik itxaron zuten zerbait
etxea erosi arte. Elkon bakarrik bizi zen, baita etxe bat erosi ostean, baina
semea Elkora lan egitera joan zenez, bere etxean hartzen zuen. Semeak bere
emaztea Elkon ezagutu zuen eta bolada batez Seberianoren etxean bizi izan
ziren. Ez du astirik izan beste emazte bat bilatzeko, buru belarri lanean ari
zelako, ez zuen astirik “jeustako”. Gero hotela saldu zuenean “zaharregi”.
2005ean saldu zuen hotel-restaurantea. Elko-ko
euskal besta gogora ekartzen du. Ez ziren anitz juntatzen elkarrekin
euskaldunak. Euskaldunen artean agian ez zegoen giro onegia, eta horregatik
ez zuen gehiegi maite giro hura. Nevadan, berriz, astero juntatzen dira,
astean behin. Lehen euskal jatetxe batean: Overland, Gardnervillen dago.
Argazki bateak erakusten dizkit nortzuk elkartzen ziren: Almandoz, Erroibar
(Demetrio eta Martin Huarte), Baigorri[6]
(Jean Pierre Izoko), Sunbila (Jose
Rivera)… zenbait herrietakoak dira. Jesus Rey-ren amaginarrebaren etxea
biltzen dira. Euskal
pelota jarraitzen du telebistatik (Laso eta Altuna). “Mus tournament” egiten
dute herri bakoitzean eta horrek ematen dio aukera social life izateko: Reno, Winnemucca, Gardnerville eta hainbat
lekutan aritzen da kartetan eta gustatzen zaio ikustea lagunak. Erretiratu
denetik badu denbora soberan. Arrantzan ere joaten da, ihizean ere joaten da,
Jesus Rey-rekin batera. Anaia-arrebekin
kontaktuan dago (bizi dira): bata Beran bizi da eta bestea Irunen. Etorri
ziren bisitan lau lagun familiakoak. Anaia-arrebekin eta hango ilobekin
kontaktu handia dauka. Ongi
konpontzen da “pais” hontan, bi seme on dituelako eta suhiak ere emakume onak
dira. “Hagitz ongi” esaten du. Euskal Herriaz oroitzen den arren, ez hara
joateko bezainbeste. Hona etorri, hori bai, eta lehendabiziko urteetan beti
zeukan buruan herria eta hara joateko (itzulitzeko) gogoa. Urteen buruan gero
eta gehiago integratu da “pais hontan” eta “hemen gara”, esaten du. Hemen
egondako batzuk hara joanda gero herri txikietan haserretzen dira erraz
(“herri txiki infernu handi” esaera gogora ekartzen du). Euskal Herritik hona
lan egiteko gogoa, diru egiteko gogoa eta beste errealitate batzuk ezagutzeko
gogoa. Orain
Nafarroa oso “kanbiatuta” ikusten du, gauza batzuk hobetu dira. Bera etorri
“zelarikan” gauza pobre zen. 1962an etorri eta 1966an Nafarrora joan zen
hemendik 8000 $ eraman zituen: diru horrekin Bera Bidasoan pisu bat erosi
zuen, oraindik egiten ari zirena. Eta kotxe erabilitako bat (Renault 10), eta
erraz bizi zen, hango festetan, neskak ezagutzen, eta abar. Soldaduska
egiteko pendiente zeukan eta han geldintzen bazen beste sei hilabetez egitera
behartuta egongo zen, eta ez zuen hori nahi. Bigarren “etorrera” hartan
(1966an) negar egin zuen, zeren irabazitako diruarekin bazeuzkan bizitzeko
gauzak (pisua, kotxea) eta lanpostu bat erraz topatzeko aukera (Lesakako
“Laminaciones-en”, adibidez). Kantatzea
gustatzen zaio, beste euskaldunekin batera, nahiz eta bere burua ez duen
ikusten abeslari on bat bezala. San Franciscoko Miguel Ibarra sunbildarra
aipatzen du, abeslari ona bezala, mexikarrak, euskaldun abesti zaharrak...
miresten du. “Ikusten duzu goizean, argia hasten denean/ menditto baten
gainean”[7]
abestia, adibidez, badaki kantatzen. Gogoratzen
du koiote franko hil zituela artzaina zelarik. Berarekin erabiltzen zuen
errifle bat: nagusiak botila bat whysky ematen zien koioteak hilez gero.
Elurra izanez gero, gauez ere ikusten ziren koioteak (ilargi onarekin) eta
hura zen aukera bat koiotea hiltzeko, baina koioteak usaimen ona zuten eta
arriskua somatuz gero ez ziren hurbiltzen.
Katu basak ere akabatu ditu. Suge kaskabelak ere arriskutsuak, eta bolada
batez haien buztanak gorde zituen gero erakusteko. Etxean
ardo-zahato bat dauka eta “zapela” ere asko ibiltzen du (orain baseball
kapela duen arren). Gogoratzen da 1966an Bilbon erositako armonika bat, eta
jotzen du ederki: Gardnervillen bizi den Iparraldeko beste batekin ere
aritzen da armonika jotzen (beste hark bikain jotzen du). Elkon
bazen jatetxe bat, Silver Dollar izena zeukana. Nagusia lesakarra zen. Ramon
Zugazaga bizkaitarra ere gogoratzen du, Elkon jatetxetan lan egindakoa, orain
haur talde bat eramaten du ia urtero Euskal Herrira soccer edo futbolean
aritzera. Biltoki jatetxean aritu zen, besteak beste. Lau
lan klase egin ditu: artzain, harategian, lorezain eta jatetxean. Jatetxean
negozioa egiteko, bere ustez, Elko leku ona da. Mineria edo Meategiak daude
eta langile asko: beraz, demanda handia. Pikon edaria ere oso erakargarria. Germán
Lasarte (Lekunberrikoa, edo Etxarrikoa, ez da gogoratzen) gogoratzen du.
1967an itzuli zen Nafarroara eta han harategi bat jarri zuen. Duela gutxi
Lekunberrin egin zen artzain-besta bat eta hainbeste urteren ondoren
berarekin elkartu zen berriro besta hartan, eta bertako egunkarietan atera
ziren biak. Gogoratzen du mutil altua zela eta pultsuan irabazten ziola.
Baina Germanek esan zuen: nik gauza batean irabazten dut: saltoan. Halaxe
zen, langa bat jarrita salto egiten zuen, baina lurra gogorra zenez,
biharamunean minez ibiltzen zen. Sunbildarrak ere ezagutzen ditu itzuli
direnak eta hara bi urtetan behin joaten saiatzen da eta gustatzen zaio
ikustea.
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Seberiano Lazcano (Part 1)
The following account is based on an
interview conducted at Seberiano Lazcano's home in Minden, Nevada, on
November 17, 2021. The first thing Seberiano shows is his cap. On the front it bears both the Basque flag (Ikurriña) and the flag of the United States,
together with the words: "Two homelands, one heart." Although he knows that his surname is written Lazkano in Basque, he continues to
spell it Lazcano,
preserving the traditional Spanish spelling. Seberiano was born in 1942 at Komizko Borda, a farmhouse in the small village of Gaztelu, in the Malerreka
region of Navarre. At the time there were only nineteen houses in the
village. His father came from Aranaz (Arantza), while his mother
was from Santesteban (Doneztebe). There were nine children in the family. Reaching school was far from easy. No road connected the farmhouse to the village, only a
narrow mountain footpath. Their teacher walked every day from Doneztebe
across the mountains to reach Gaztelu. Seberiano attended school only until he was about ten or
eleven years old. Farm work always came first. He spent his childhood tending sheep, working with oxen,
and helping his family, leaving little opportunity for formal education. At school he learned to read and write, together with
basic arithmetic, but little beyond that. His sister received more schooling than he did. When Seberiano later emigrated to America, the letters she
sent became an unexpected source of education. By carefully reading and rereading them, he gradually
improved his reading skills. One of his brothers left to work in the forests of France,
while one of his sisters moved to Paris. Their departure increased the amount of work that remained
for those still at home. Seberiano was the youngest of the brothers and had only
one younger sister. The family kept cows, pigs, chickens, and two or three
mares that grazed freely in the mountains. Because the farmhouse stood nearly two kilometers from the
village, the brothers were rarely allowed to go into town to play pelota with
the other children. Like many young men in the region during those years,
Seberiano also became involved in cross-border
smuggling. Working at night, he rode a mare through the mountains as
far as the Ultzama Valley, earning valuable extra income. The greatest danger came from the Civil Guard. If they intercepted the smugglers, they confiscated the
goods, leaving them with nothing. Fortunately, Seberiano had an unusually valuable
companion. His dog had learned to distinguish between ordinary
passersby, priests, and Civil Guard patrols. Whenever the dog detected policemen—often by spotting the
glow of their cigarettes in the darkness—it barked in a distinctive way. Hearing that warning, Seberiano immediately changed
direction and avoided the patrol. Stories of successful emigrants also reached Gaztelu. He remembers hearing about people who had gone to America
and earned good money. Among them was Melchor
Graciarena, now living in Bakersfield. Melchor was the same age as Seberiano, and they had
attended the same school together. Melchor emigrated in 1961. Seberiano followed one year later, in 1962. Another brother also traveled to America two months after
Seberiano. Unlike him, however, the experience proved disappointing. After completing a single three-year contract, his brother
returned permanently to Navarre. Seberiano's first destination was Fresno, California. His employers were Rey and Mixen Sagardia, Basques originally from Urepel in the French Basque Country. An interesting family connection also existed. Seberiano's eldest sister, Jesús, married another man
named Rey, although he stresses that this family was unrelated to the Jesús
Rey who later settled in Gardnerville, Nevada. From the beginning Seberiano considers himself fortunate. On the ranch there lived a married couple from Baigorri
who prepared meals for the owners. He moved into their house and helped them with daily work. Among his responsibilities was feeding lambs destined for
slaughter. After butchering them, he skinned the carcasses and
hoisted them into trees using a pulley system so that wolves and coyotes
could not reach them before the meat was delivered to the shepherds. He spent two summers working alongside that family and
remembers those years with great satisfaction. At other times he worked entirely alone. Looking back, he believes that arriving in America at the
age of only nineteen made solitary shepherding especially difficult. Nevertheless, he remained with the sheep for seven years. At the end of that period he received his Green Card, giving him permanent
legal status in the United States. His next move took him to Los
Angeles. A friend was employed in a butcher shop there and helped
him obtain work. Beginning in 1969, Seberiano worked at Midwest Meat Company, cutting meat, removing bones, and preparing orders. He spoke virtually no English. When his supervisor asked him to bring a particular cut of
meat, he frequently misunderstood and returned with the wrong one. Fortunately, his employer appreciated his willingness to
learn and remained patient. Another employee from León gradually taught him the
English names for different cuts of meat and the labels used throughout the
warehouse. Little by little, Seberiano adapted. He remained there for five and a half years. During this period he lived with another Basque couple. The husband, Fernando
Baraze, came from Isaba in Navarre, while his
wife, Begoña,
was from Bizkaia. They had two spare bedrooms in their apartment and
welcomed Seberiano into their home. He speaks warmly of the excellent meals Begoña prepared. Years later the couple returned to live near Pamplona. He knows Fernando has since passed away but no longer
knows what became of Begoña. Although the wages were good, the schedule was exhausting. His shift began at ten o'clock every evening—just as everyone
else was going to bed. The working conditions were also difficult. The room where the meat was cut remained warm, while the
storage area was kept at extremely low temperatures. The constant movement between heat and cold caused him to
suffer frequent colds. In 1973, after meeting her at a Basque festival, Seberiano married a woman
from Chile of Basque ancestry. Her grandfather had emigrated from Ibarra, in Bizkaia. The couple eventually had two sons. Around 1974, Seberiano left the meat industry and entered the landscaping
business. Over the next fifteen and a half years he maintained
gardens throughout affluent communities such as Arcadia,
Pasadena, San Marino, and Hollywood. Several Bizkaian Basques already worked in that field. When they later moved to Reno, responsibility for many of
their clients was transferred to Seberiano. Although he had only recently entered the profession, he
soon began working independently. Encouraged by his wife, he eventually relocated to another
area near Westlake Village, where his business continued to grow. At its peak he employed three or four workers. His clients included physicians, lawyers, contractors, and
other professionals. He preferred working outdoors and remembers those years
with particular satisfaction.
(Part 2) After establishing his landscaping business, Seberiano and his wife moved
to Agoura Hills, California. Their marriage eventually ended in divorce in 1984. He continued operating the business until 1989, when he decided to
sell it. The buyers were a group of three partners—one Basque, one Mexican, and
one Salvadoran. With the proceeds from the sale, Seberiano and another Basque partner, Miguel
Leoniz, purchased the historic Star Hotel in Elko, Nevada. The partnership, however, proved less successful than he had hoped. Without dwelling on details, Seberiano explains that he and his business
partner never worked particularly well together, making the experience
professionally difficult. He remained in Elko for fifteen years. At first he lived upstairs in the hotel, in rooms that had once housed
Basque sheepherders. Buying the hotel required an enormous financial investment, so purchasing
a separate home had to wait. Eventually he did buy a house in Elko, where he lived alone for many
years. Later, when one of his sons moved to Elko for work, he welcomed him into
the house. His son eventually met his future wife there, and for a time the young
couple also lived with Seberiano. When asked whether he had ever considered remarrying, he simply laughs. Work consumed every hour of his life. "I never had time for anything else." By the time he sold the hotel in 2005, he felt he had become too
old to begin a new chapter of that kind. Reflecting on the Basque community in Elko, Seberiano remembers the
annual Basque festival with mixed feelings. In his opinion, Basques there did not always enjoy the warmest
relationships with one another. Perhaps for that reason he never felt especially attached to that
particular social atmosphere. Elsewhere in Nevada, however, things were different. Today Basque friends continue to meet every week. For many years they gathered at the Overland Hotel in
Gardnerville. Showing photographs during the interview, Seberiano points out friends
from many different parts of the Basque Country: Almandoz, the Erro Valley,
Baigorri, Sunbilla, and other villages. Nowadays they often meet at the home of the mother-in-law of Jesús Rey. Basque pelota remains one of his favorite pastimes. He regularly follows matches on television and particularly enjoys
watching players such as Unai Laso and Jokin Altuna. He is also an enthusiastic mus player. Mus tournaments held throughout Nevada—in Reno, Winnemucca, Gardnerville,
and elsewhere—provide an excellent excuse to visit old friends. Since retiring, he has more free time than ever before. He enjoys fishing and hunting, often accompanied by his close friend
Jesús Rey. Family remains central to his life. One sibling now lives in Bera and another in Irún. Several relatives have visited him in Nevada, and he remains in frequent
contact with both his brothers and sisters and with nieces and nephews in the
Basque Country. He says he has adapted very well to life in America. Much of that satisfaction comes from his family. He speaks proudly of his two sons and warmly of his daughters-in-law. "I'm very happy," he says. Although he still remembers the Basque Country fondly, he no longer feels
the same desire to return permanently. During his first years in America he constantly thought about home and
dreamed of going back. With time, however, he became increasingly integrated into American life. "Now," he says simply, "this is where we are." He also observes that some immigrants who eventually returned to small
villages in the Basque Country found it surprisingly difficult to readjust. Quoting a familiar Basque proverb, he remarks: "A small village can be a great hell." His own reasons for emigrating were straightforward. He wanted to work hard, earn money, and experience another reality. Looking at Navarre today, he believes it has changed enormously. When he left in 1962, it was still a poor country. By the time he returned for a visit in 1966, after saving about $8,000,
the contrast was striking. With those savings he purchased an apartment in Bera while it was still
under construction, bought a used Renault 10, enjoyed local festivals,
met young women, and generally lived comfortably. He had still not completed his compulsory military service. Remaining in Spain would have required another six months in the army,
something he had no desire to do. Even so, leaving the Basque Country for the second time proved emotional. He remembers crying before returning to America. By then he already possessed many of the things needed for a comfortable
life—a car, an apartment, and the possibility of securing stable employment
at the Laminaciones factory in Lesaka. Even so, he chose to continue building his future in the United States. Seberiano has always enjoyed singing. Although he modestly insists that he is not a particularly gifted singer,
he loves joining other Basques in traditional songs. He especially admires Miguel Ibarra of Sunbilla, who lives in San
Francisco and whom he considers an outstanding singer of old Basque songs. Without hesitation, Seberiano begins singing one himself during the
interview: "When you see the dawn breaking His memories of shepherding also include many encounters with wildlife. Coyotes were constant enemies. His employer rewarded every coyote he killed with a bottle of whiskey. During snowy nights, especially under a bright moon, coyotes could
sometimes be seen at considerable distances. Even then they remained extremely cautious. Their keen sense of smell warned them whenever danger approached. Besides coyotes, Seberiano also hunted wildcats and occasionally killed
rattlesnakes, whose tails he sometimes kept as trophies. At home he still owns a traditional Basque wineskin and frequently wears
his txapela, although on the day of the interview he happens to be
wearing a baseball cap. He also treasures a harmonica that he bought in Bilbao in 1966. He plays it well and occasionally performs together with another Basque
from the French Basque Country who lives in Gardnerville and whom he
considers an exceptional harmonica player. Seberiano fondly remembers another Basque-owned establishment in Elko:
the Silver Dollar Restaurant, whose owner also came from Lesaka. He also recalls Ramón Zugazaga, originally from Bizkaia, who
worked in several Basque restaurants in Elko before later organizing youth
soccer trips to the Basque Country almost every year. Looking back over his working life, Seberiano smiles as he counts the
occupations he pursued. "I've had four different professions," he says. "Shepherd, butcher, landscaper, and restaurant owner." In his opinion, Elko remains an excellent place to operate a restaurant
because of the nearby mining industry, which provides a large and steady
customer base. He especially remembers the popularity of Picon Punch, the
traditional Basque cocktail that remains a hallmark of Basque hotels
throughout Nevada. Toward the end of the interview he recalls another Navarrese immigrant, Germán
Lasarte, originally from either Lekunberri or Etxarri-Aranatz—he is no
longer certain which. Germán returned permanently to Navarre in 1967 and opened a
butcher shop there. Many years later the two unexpectedly met again at a shepherds' festival
in Lekunberri, where local newspapers even published a photograph of their
reunion. Seberiano laughs as he remembers that Germán was a tall, powerful young
man who usually beat him in arm wrestling. "But I could always beat him at one thing," Germán used to
reply. "High jumping." He could indeed leap over a raised bar with remarkable ease, although
Seberiano jokes that he always paid for it with sore legs the following day. Every two years Seberiano still tries to return to the Basque Country. He especially enjoys seeing old friends from Sunbilla and the surrounding
villages who, like him, once left in search of a better future.
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[1] “Zelaikan”: zelarikan,
zelarik. Bere Malerrekako hizkera agertu nahian, kakotxen artean zenbait hitz
eta esamolde sartzea aberasgarria izan daitekeelakoan gaude.
[2] “Ontsa” eta “ongi” biak esaten ditu,
baina badirudi lehenengoa nafar-lapurteraren eraginez dela, baxenafar askorekin
ibilia delako.
[3]
https://www.arcadiaca.gov/
[4]
https://www.wlv.org/
[5]
https://www.agourahillscity.org/
[6] Bidarraikoa
izan daiteke.
[7]
https://www.eusko-ikaskuntza.eus/eu/dokumentu-fondoa/euskal-kantutegia/ab-5044/
Isidro Etxeto (Eugi, Esteribar)
Isidro Etxeto bere Winnemuccako etxe atarian, 2019ko udan. / Isidro Etxeto en el porche de su casa de Winnemucca, verano de 2019
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Isidro Etxeto 1935an Eugin jaio zen,
Elixaga etxean. 1963ra Eugitik Ameriketako Estatu Batuetara joan zen, itsasoa
hegazkinez zeharkatu zuen Renoraino eta handik Star Ranch-era joan zen
(Winnamuccatik 40 bat miliatara), hiru urteko kontratuarekin, bere osaba zen
bertan nagusi: Teodoro Belzarena.
Bere aita Francisco ere zazpi urtez egon zen
AEBetan.
1963an heldu zen Ameriketako Estatu
Batuetara: hegazkinak eginiko azkeneko hegaldia Renon bukatu zen. Handik, osabarekin
batera Elko aldera jo zuten. Eugiko bere osaba, Teodoro Belzarena (amaren
partetik) han zegoen eta lortu zuen Isidrorentzat hiru urteko kontratua, Star
Ranch delakoan. Winnemuccatik 40 miliatara zegoen arrantxo hori. Guztira bost urtez egon zen bildotsak hazten.
Mendi aldean udan eta neguan arrantxora etortzen ziren erditzera (parición). Udaberrian bildotsekin
ateratzen ziren arrantxotik. Mendian zeudelarik kanpadendekin egoten ziren
eta astoaz baliatzen ziren oihal etxolak lekuz aldatzeko. Lan horretan
emandako bost urtetan denbora gehienean kanpadendan bizi izan zen, arrantxoan
egun batzuk ematen zituen arren. Zenbait zuhaitzen enborretan mezuak utzi
zituen baina ez omen dio inork ohartarazi beraren mezuak aurkitu izana. Artzain igarotako bost urteak burutu eta
gero, Winnemuccako Hotelean bizi izan zen bi urtez. Hotel historiko hori
(hainbat euskalduni ostatua eman ziona), 1919an sortua (Echeverria, 1999, p.
243) orain[1]
botatzen ari dira. Bertan nagusi bizkaitarrak zeuden: Mike Olano eta Margaret,
bere emaztea, alde batetik; bestetik (hoteleko nagusiak baita) Claudio
Yzaguirre eta bere emaztea Jesusa. Bertako egoiliar baten (Joxe Mallea)
arreba, Jesusa, zen Claudio Yzaguirre bizkaitarren emaztea. Giro euskalduna
zegoen hotel hartan. Hara Jeronima Echeverria-ren erreferentzia (1999, p.
145), bat datorrena Isidrok esandakoarekin: From 1946 through 1965, the Winnemucca was owned and
operated by Angel and Eugenia Mendiola, who then sold to Miguel and Margaret
Olano and Claudio and Jesusa Yzaguirre. Finally, the Olanos and Claudio and
Jesusa Yzaguirre. Finally, the Olanos boutht out their partners int 1971 and
today they run the business with their son Michael. Gerora eraikuntzan lan egiten hasi zen.
1980an eskabadora erosi eta 1981en lizentziak lortu zituen traktorea
erabiltzeko. Bere kabuz lan egiten aritu zen (autonomo edo entrepeneur) baina bere zerbitzuak
bertako telefono konpainiarentzat lan eginez, hogeita sei urtez. Kableak lur
azpian jarri, zementuzko kutxak eta, azkeneko urteetan, fiber, telefonorako fibra jartzen ere aritu zen. Satorrek
batzuetan etxeetara doazen kableak jaten zituzten eta eskuz konpondu behar
izaten ziren. Muriel izeneko emakume amerikar batekin
(agian arbasoak Iparraldekoak zituen) ezkondu zen eta 2013an hil zen. Harrez
geroztik alargun jarraitu du. Winnemuccako Basque Club delakoan 1978an
sartu zen bazkide eta, guztira hamar urtez izan da bertako arduraduna, ez
jarraian, baina bai urte guztiak gehituta. 2018 “Bizitza emankorra” saria
eman zioten bertako klubekoek. Seme alabak klubean egon dira inplikaturik.
Alabak (Tina Maria) bertako dantza taldean ikasi zituen euskal dantzak eta
orain club-eko zuzendaritza taldean dago.
Isidro Etxetok euskara etxean jaso zuen,
baina eskolan ez zuen euskara lantzeko aukerarik izan, dena gaztelaniaz
egiten zelako. AEBetara joan zenez geroztik Iparraldekoekin mintzatu da asko
euskaraz, haiek gaztelaniaz ez zekitelako eta Isidrok frantsesez ez
dakielako: beraz euskaraz hitz egin du Iparraldetik (bereziki Nafarroa
Beheretik) hara joandakoekin azkeneko urteetan. Bere lexikoan badira zenbait
hitz eta esamolde baxenafarren kutsukoak: potreta
(argazkia), lautan hogoita hamar
(laurogeita hamar), edo horren itxura daukatenak eta agian baxenafarrekin
izandako ahozko komunikazioagatik izan zitekeen. Zoritxarrez, Winnamuccan
gero eta gutxiago gelditzen dira euskaraz mintzo direnak, apurka-apurka
hiltzen joan direlako (“heiek joan dira, joanak dira”: they are gone, esamoldearen euskarazko kalko “pertsonala”). Nevadako euskaldunak “ongi heldu” dira, “ongi
etortzen” dira elkarrekin. Winnemucca-ko euskal club-ean, adibidez, ez dago
“zu bizkainoa zara, ni naparra”; alegia, ez dago “argumentuik”, ez
eztabaidarik edo bereizketarik jatorria dela-eta. Denak “euskal” edo “basque” izenaren pean ez da
bereizketarik egiten. Estimatzen du bereizketa hori gehiago “Espainian”
gertatzen dela (Espainiako kontu politiko bat dela). Ongi konpontzen da,
esate baterako, Idahoko bizkaitarrekin eta, baita, bere zonaldean izandako
gipuzkoar gutxirekin. Euskal Herritik harri-jasotzaileak eta aizkolariak
ekartzerakoan, ez diote begiratu ea nafarrak, bizkaitarrak edo gipuzkoarrak
ziren.
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Isidro Etxeto The following account is
based on an interview conducted with Isidro Etxeto in Winnemucca, Nevada. Isidro Etxeto's father, Francisco
Etxeto, had also spent seven years in the United States before returning
to the Basque Country. Following in his father's
footsteps, Isidro arrived in the United States in 1963. His flight
ended in Reno, where he was met by his uncle before continuing on to the Elko
area. His maternal uncle, Teodoro
Belzarena, originally from Eugi, was already living in Nevada and
arranged a three-year employment contract for him at Star Ranch,
located about forty miles from Winnemucca. For the next five years,
Isidro worked raising sheep. During the summer the
flocks grazed in the mountains, while in winter they returned to the ranch
for lambing season. In the spring the shepherds headed back into the
mountains with the newborn lambs. Most of those years were
spent living in canvas tents. Pack donkeys were used to
transport the tents and equipment whenever the camp had to move from one
grazing area to another. Although he occasionally
returned to the ranch for a few days, mountain camps remained his home for
most of that period. Like many shepherds,
Isidro left carved messages on the trunks of trees scattered throughout the
range. To his knowledge, however,
no one has ever told him that they found any of those messages. After completing five
years as a shepherd, he moved to the Winnemucca Hotel, where he lived
for the next two years. The hotel, established in 1919,
had long served as one of the principal gathering places for Basque
immigrants in northern Nevada. By the time of the
interview, however, the historic building was in the process of being
demolished. The hotel maintained a
distinctly Basque atmosphere. Among its owners were Mike
Olano and his wife Margaret, together with Claudio Yzaguirre
and his wife Jesusa. Jesusa was the sister of Joxe
Mallea, another well-known Basque resident of Winnemucca. Isidro's memories closely
coincide with the historical account provided by Jeronima Echeverria: "From 1946 through
1965, the Winnemucca was owned and operated by Angel and Eugenia Mendiola,
who then sold to Miguel and Margaret Olano and Claudio and Jesusa Yzaguirre.
Finally, the Olanos bought out their partners in 1971 and today they run the
business with their son Michael." (Echeverria, 1999, p. 145) Later, Isidro left
ranching and entered the construction industry. In 1980 he purchased
his first excavator, and a year later obtained the licenses necessary to
operate heavy equipment professionally. He established himself as
an independent contractor and spent the next twenty-six years carrying
out excavation work for the local telephone company. His work included burying
telephone cables, installing concrete utility boxes, and, during the final
years of his career, laying fiber-optic cable. Occasionally moles damaged
underground lines leading to customers' homes, requiring crews to repair them
manually. Isidro married an American
woman named Muriel, who may have had ancestors from the French Basque
Country. She passed away in 2013,
and he has remained a widower ever since. Community involvement
became another important part of his life. In 1978 he joined
the Winnemucca Basque Club, where he would eventually serve as
president for a total of ten years, although not consecutively. In 2018 the club
recognized his long service by presenting him with its "Fruitful
Life" Award. His children have also
remained actively involved in the organization. His daughter, Tina
Maria, learned traditional Basque dances through the club's dance group
and now serves on its board of directors. Isidro grew up speaking
Basque at home. School, however, was conducted
entirely in Spanish, leaving him no opportunity to study or develop Basque in
a formal educational setting. After emigrating to the
United States, he found himself speaking Basque primarily with immigrants
from the French Basque Country. Most of them spoke little
or no Spanish, while Isidro knew no French, making Basque their only common
language. Over the years, this
constant interaction—especially with immigrants from Lower Navarre—left a
noticeable mark on his own speech. His vocabulary now includes
a number of expressions characteristic of the Northern Basque dialects, such
as potreta for "photograph" and lautan hogei eta hamar
("four twenties and ten") for ninety. He believes these
expressions entered his speech naturally through decades of oral
communication with Lower Navarrese Basques. Sadly, he observes that
very few Basque speakers remain in Winnemucca today. Little by little, they
have passed away. Using a characteristic
expression influenced by English, he remarks in Basque: "They have gone—they
are gone." Reflecting on the Basque
community in Nevada, Isidro emphasizes the remarkable sense of unity that
exists among Basque immigrants. Basques, he says,
"get along well." Within organizations such
as the Winnemucca Basque Club, distinctions of regional origin carry little
importance. Nobody says, "You're
from Bizkaia and I'm from Navarre." There are no arguments
based on provincial identity. Everyone simply belongs to
the Basque community. In his opinion, those
kinds of divisions are far more common in Spain, where they often reflect
political debates rather than everyday relationships. He points out that he has
always enjoyed close friendships with Basques from Bizkaia living in Idaho,
as well as with the relatively small number of Gipuzkoans who settled in his
own area. Likewise, whenever the
club invited Basque rural sports competitors from the Basque Country—whether stone
lifters (harrijasotzaileak) or wood choppers (aizkolariak)—their
province of origin was never considered. What mattered was simply
that they were Basque.
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[1] Elkarrizketa egin zeneko urtean, 2021ean. / En el año
en que se hizo esta entrevista, 2021.
Jesús
Rey Belza (Bizkarreta / Viscarret-Guerendiáin)
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Jesús Rey Belza
(Bizkarreta / Viscarret-Guerendiáin)
Jesús Rey nació el 18 de junio de 1947 en Bizkarreta
(valle de Erro). Sus padres también eran de allí: José Rey Úriz y María Belza
Erro. Cuando se le pregunta por la edad de los padres, hay un malentendido,
que aclara diciendo que «no, no, no, eso no trabaja»[1].
No tiene el euskera como lengua materna, aunque en algunos pueblos del valle
de Erro se utilizó hasta el siglo XX. A la edad de dieciocho años voló a
Estados Unidos, en 1965, y se convirtió en pastor por primera vez. Empezó a
trabajar para dos rancheros asociados: Joaquín Azparren (de Bizkarreta
también) y Carlos Zalba. Ambos habían fallecido para 2019, año de la entrevista.
Jesús dice que los que vinieron en los cincuenta ya «están todos idos»[2]2
y los que vinieron en los sesenta van a «buena velocidad». Años después fue allí también su hermana Isabel, nacida
en 1966, meses después de que Jesús llegara a EUA. En la actualidad Isabel
vive en Gardnerville, aunque visita a menudo Bizkarreta. Es viuda desde 2017. En 1970 Jesús obtuvo una «tarjeta de residencia» y se
mudó a Los Ángeles con su primo. Le ofrecieron un puesto en Farmer John
Packing House[3],
donde se mantuvo desde mayo de 1970 hasta junio de 1974. Dice que se ganaba
la vida trabajando duro. Pudo comprarse un coche y así acudir a los bailes
vascos que se celebraban los fines de semana. Según su testimonio, los bailes
vascos son el elemento que une las raíces de los vascos y/o navarros de
cualquier lugar, y él acepta naturalmente esta «vasquidad». En 1974 su amigo Carlos Iribarren (de Santesteban, que
llegó en el año 1964 a EUA) le propuso comprar un restaurante en
Gardnerville. Se llamaba Carson Valley Country Club, y llevaron el negocio
juntos durante veintinueve años. Carlos, recientemente fallecido, acabó
casándose con la hermana de Jesús, Isabel, en segundas nupcias. Vino como
pastor, para trabajar con su patrón Etxebeste, que era a la vez su tío. Luego
trabajó en el matadero de Los Ángeles y después como «cantinero» en Chino
(California). Aunque era de Santesteban aprendió el «vasco» o el euskera
«aquí»[4],
porque tenía familiares en Fresno con los que practicaba la lengua.
En el restaurante iban a tener un cocinero, pero en el
último momento se «echó para atrás» y Jesús acabó entrando en la cocina y así
estuvo durante veintinueve años. El hecho de tener que hacerse la comida
desde los dieciocho años (siendo pastor o cuando trabajaba en el matadero de
Los Ángeles) le sirvió para desenvolverse en el mundo de los fogones. Además,
una cocinera que trabajaba en el antiguo negocio lo asesoró las dos primeras
semanas en la puesta en marcha del restaurante. El Carson Valley Country Club[5]
trataban de ofrecer comida casera por un precio razonable. Los clientes
podían encontrar una comida que no iban a hallar en otro lugar, nos dice. Los
inmigrantes navarros y, digamos, vizcaínos del valle Carson de Nevada se
acostumbraron a trasladarse allí, siendo Gardnerville el hogar de muchos
inmigrantes vascos (incluidos los de Navarra, como Angelines Cantero, de
Eugi, y su marido, de los cuales se acuerda, que venían desde Fresno,
California, al restaurante). Es por esto que había muchos ornamentos vascos
en el restaurante de Jesús Rey. En Gardnerville organizaban pícnics vascos y un día al
año hacían una celebración con gente y familias que habían ido del valle de
Erro a EUA. Se iban turnando entre el restaurante Overland y el Country Club.
Empezaron a celebrar esta reunión de erroibartarras –en la que preparaban una
buena comida– aproximadamente en 1998. Después había música con baile y
partidas de mus. En los últimos años, por defunciones y porque algunos se han
hecho muy mayores, dice que lo están dejando de hacer. Aun así, siguen en
contacto con los del valle, de los cuales un gran porcentaje vive en la bahía
de San Francisco, donde hay bastante gente de Olóndriz y del pueblo de Erro.
Son abundantes, apostilla.
a ese país.
Por supuesto, se organizaban en Gardnerville otros
pícnics vascos abiertos a todos los que venían, tanto vasco-franceses[6]
como de la parte de España. Cordero o pescado era lo principal en esas
comidas. Había otros tipos de platos, que recuerda de su infancia, como
«menudicos», callos y cosas así. Esos los degustaban más en la «intimidad».
También hacían otros platos para un público más amplio que resultaban muy
llamativos, como lengua en salsa, que acababan gustando a la mayoría de la
gente. Dice que aprendió inglés «a patadas» y a «fuerza de
necesidad», porque en los años que trabajó en el restaurante tenían
trabajadores que solo sabían inglés. Pero él dice que siempre le gustó la
«escuela». Incluso cuando estaba de pastor «agarraba el diccionario» e
intentaba aprender palabras: «en un papelico escribía unas tres o cinco
palabras y las memorizaba, o lo que sería»[7]7.
Cuando vivió en Los Ángeles fue a una «escuela» de inglés y eso fue una buena
excusa para conocer chicas, según nos cuenta. Con la clientela también tuvo
la oportunidad de practicar mucho el inglés. Se casó con Mary Rivera en 1976. Ella nació en Los
Ángeles, hija de José y Emilia. Su padre era de Sunbilla y su madre de Sos
del Rey Católico, de Aragón. Tiene un hijo y una hija. La hija (1980) vive en
San Francisco y es arquitecta, y el hijo (1978) vive en Las Vegas. Ambos han
tenido contacto con la emigración navarra porque se criaron en el restaurante
Mendiko Euskaldun Cluba, que es la asociación de Gardnerville a la que ellos
acudían a los bailes. Dice que a estos les «tira» su tierra, les gustan los
montes verdes de Navarra y que cuando llegan allí «se sienten como en casa». Con su socio solían ir a pescar y a cazar e incluso
organizaban en la montaña «buenas fiestas». El andar por la montaña es algo a
lo que ha tendido siempre, porque después de años retirado suele ir a menudo
a por setas y hongos a las montañas que rodean Gardnerville. Un artículo en la edición de julio-agosto de 1996 de la
revista Nevada Magazine presentaba el restaurante de Jesús Rey y otros dos
restaurantes vascos en Carson Valley. Se incluyeron dos fotografías de los
mismos para ilustrar el artículo, y una de ellas muestra a Jesús Rey con su
hija Dioni y su hijo Esteban. Los tres sonríen en la foto y presentan unos
platos espectaculares y atractivos que se degustaban en su restaurante. Jesús
Rey y sus dos hijos van vestidos con trajes vascos, en línea con el titular
del artículo: Tierra de proporciones vascas. El subtítulo también fue
significativo: Carson Valley’s trio of Basque restaurants relish
the Old World pleasure of eating in a big way.
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Jesús Rey Belza
(Bizkarreta / Viscarret-Guerendiáin)
The following account is based on an
interview conducted with Jesús Rey Belza in Gardnerville, Nevada. Jesús Rey Belza was born on June
18, 1947, in Bizkarreta
(Viscarret-Guerendiáin), in the Erro Valley of
Navarre. Both of his parents, José Rey Úriz and María Belza Erro, were also natives of the village. At one point during the interview, a question about his
parents' age causes a humorous misunderstanding. Laughing, he replies, "No, no, no—that doesn't work!" Unlike many other emigrants interviewed for this study,
Basque was not his mother tongue, although it continued to be spoken in
several villages of the Erro Valley well into the twentieth century. At the age of eighteen, in 1965, Jesús emigrated to the United States, where he became a sheepherder
for the first time. He worked for two ranchers who operated together: Joaquín Azparren, who was also
from Bizkarreta, and Carlos Zalba. Both men had passed away by the time of the interview in
2019. Reflecting on the passing of his generation, Jesús
observes that those who emigrated during the 1950s "are all gone
now," while those who arrived during the 1960s are disappearing "at
a good pace." Several years later, his sister Isabel also emigrated to the
United States. She had been born shortly after Jesús left for America and
eventually settled in Gardnerville, although she continues to visit
Bizkarreta regularly. She was widowed in 2017. In 1970, after obtaining his permanent resident card, Jesús moved to Los Angeles with one of his
cousins. There he accepted a position at Farmer John Packing House, where
he worked from May 1970 until June 1974. He recalls those years as a period of hard work. The job allowed him to earn a decent living and eventually
purchase a car, making it possible to attend the Basque dances held on
weekends throughout southern California. For Jesús, these dances represented far more than simple
social gatherings. They were occasions that united Basques and Navarrese from
every corner of the diaspora, reinforcing a shared Basque identity that he
embraced naturally. In 1974, his friend Carlos Iribarren, originally from Santesteban and himself an immigrant since 1964,
suggested purchasing a restaurant together in Gardnerville,
Nevada. The establishment was called the Carson Valley Country Club, and
the two partners successfully operated it for the next twenty-nine years. Carlos Iribarren, who has since passed away, later married
Jesús's sister Isabel after both had previously been widowed. Carlos had also begun his American career as a shepherd,
working for his uncle Etxebeste before later finding employment at a Los
Angeles meatpacking plant and eventually tending bar in Chino, California. Although Carlos came from Santesteban, Jesús explains that
he actually learned to speak Basque in the United States through relatives
living in Fresno, with whom he regularly practiced the language. Originally, the new restaurant was supposed to hire an
experienced cook. At the last moment, however, the cook withdrew. Faced with no alternative, Jesús entered the kitchen
himself. He remained there for the next twenty-nine years. Looking back, he believes his earlier experiences prepared
him surprisingly well. As a shepherd, and later while working in Los Angeles, he
had always cooked for himself. In addition, one of the cooks from the previous business
stayed for the first two weeks after the purchase, teaching him the basics of
running the kitchen. The Carson Valley Country Club sought to provide homemade
meals at reasonable prices. According to Jesús, customers found dishes there that
could not be found anywhere else in the area. The restaurant gradually became a meeting place for Basque
immigrants throughout the Carson Valley. Many Navarrese and Bizkaian immigrants made it one of
their regular gathering places. Jesús fondly remembers customers such as Angelines Cantero, originally
from Eugi, and her husband, who frequently traveled from Fresno simply to eat
there. The restaurant reflected this identity through numerous
Basque decorations displayed throughout the building. Gardnerville also became an important center for Basque
community life. Every year the local community organized Basque picnics
open to everyone, regardless of whether they came from the Spanish or the
French side of the Pyrenees. In addition, once a year emigrants from the Erro Valley gathered for a
special reunion. The location alternated between the historic Overland Hotel and the Carson Valley Country Club. These reunions began around 1998. The participants prepared an elaborate meal, followed by
music, dancing, and games of mus. Sadly, Jesús explains, these gatherings have gradually
disappeared as many of the participants have passed away or grown too old to
attend. Nevertheless, close ties among emigrants from the Erro
Valley remain. Many continue to live around the San Francisco Bay Area,
particularly people originally from Olóndriz and the village of Erro, creating a remarkably concentrated community. Food naturally occupied a central place in Basque
celebrations. The larger public picnics generally featured roast lamb or
fish, dishes that appealed to broad audiences. More traditional specialties from his childhood—such as menudicos (lamb offal), tripe,
and similar dishes—were usually reserved for smaller gatherings among Basques
themselves. Other recipes, including tongue
in sauce, often surprised newcomers but
eventually became favorites among many non-Basque customers as well. Learning English required determination. Jesús says he learned it "through necessity" and
"the hard way." Many of the restaurant employees spoke only English,
leaving him no choice but to communicate in their language. He also genuinely enjoyed studying. Even while tending sheep he carried a dictionary with him. He wrote down three or five new words each day on small
pieces of paper and memorized them one by one. While living in Los Angeles he attended English classes,
which, he jokes, also provided an excellent opportunity to meet young women. Daily conversations with restaurant customers further
improved his command of the language. In 1976 he married Mary Rivera. Mary had been born in Los Angeles. Her father, José, came from Sunbilla, while her mother, Emilia, was originally from Sos del Rey Católico, in
neighboring Aragón. The couple had two children: a son, born in 1978, who now lives in Las
Vegas, and a daughter, born in 1980, who lives in San Francisco and works as an architect. Both children grew up surrounded by Basque culture. They attended dances and activities at Mendiko Euskaldun Cluba, the
Basque association in Gardnerville. Jesús believes they have developed a genuine attachment to
Navarre. They love its green mountains and, whenever they visit,
"feel at home." Outside work, Jesús and his business partner enjoyed
spending time fishing and hunting. They often organized gatherings and celebrations in the
mountains. Even in retirement, he remains happiest outdoors. He regularly searches the mountains surrounding
Gardnerville for mushrooms, continuing a pastime that reminds him of the
landscapes of his youth. The importance of the Carson Valley Country Club extended
beyond the Basque community itself. An article published in the July–August
1996 issue of Nevada
Magazine featured Jesús's restaurant together with
two other Basque restaurants in Carson Valley. One photograph showed Jesús alongside his daughter Dioni and his son Esteban, all smiling while
presenting an impressive selection of dishes served at the restaurant. The three were dressed in traditional Basque clothing,
perfectly illustrating the article's title: "Land of Basque Proportions." The subtitle summarized the spirit of the piece: "Carson Valley's trio of Basque
restaurants relish the Old World pleasure of eating in a big way." The article reflected how Basque cuisine had become one of
the most visible expressions of Basque identity in western Nevada, attracting
both Basque immigrants and the wider American public.
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[1] «Eso no trabaja», parece ser que es un calco sintáctico de la
expresión en inglés it does not work (o it doesn’t work) cuando se quiere decir
que esa explicación no es válida.
[2] «Están todos idos», es un calco de la expresión en inglés They are
all gone, queriendo decir que han fallecido.
[3] No hemos localizado con este nombre esta empresa, pero con un
nombre muy parecido (quizás sea ese su verdadero nombre), Farmer John
Meatpacking Plant, aparece que en Los Ángeles existe esa empresa:
https://commercialobserver.com/2023/07/la-farmer-john-meatpacking-plant-sale-goodman-group//
4
[4] “Aquí” porque la entrevista se realizó en el mismo Gardnerville,
Nevada.
[5] https://www.euskalkultura.eus/english/resources/carson-valley-country-club-bar.
[6] En este contexto «franceses» quiere decir los de la zona vasco-francesa,
principalmente baxenafarrak o de la Baja Navarra.
[7] «Lo que sería»: queriendo decir «lo que fuera». Condicional por
subjuntivo, típicamente una expresión gramaticalmente incorrecta frecuente
entre los vasco-navarros.
